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D30/D44 axles

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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:23 AM
  #1  
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Default D30/D44 axles

I have a 2011 JKU 4 door sport with 3:73 gears and I plan on lifting it 3" and putting 35's under it in the next month. I also want to put 5:13 gears on my JK but i am concerned that the D30 axle might be under to much stress for those gears. A friend of mine (who wheels with a giant F350 lifted 12") seems to think that D30 is to weak of an axle to put that low of a gear/tire package on my JK. He is concerned that once i get it off road and put it under any real stress that the front D30 axle will most likely break sooner than if i went with a lower gear set up.

Can anyone with more expireance in these matters help me out with this?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:29 AM
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I say you'll be fine. The usual sleeve/gusset crap and just don't beat it too hard.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 05:36 AM
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Like scotty said, take the safe road and gusset the C's & sleeve the axle. Obviously, going the gusset route is cheaper and less labor intensive and the sleeve is a little more coin and more labor intensive. Both primarily require welding, so keep that in mind and as long as you aren't beating the hell out of it wheelin hard you'll be OK. I'm getting 37's soon and plan on just getting gussets and taking it easy.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:04 AM
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I pretty much feel the way the guys above do.


Originally Posted by OutlawJoker
He is concerned that once i get it off road and put it under any real stress that the front D30 axle will most likely break sooner than if i went with a lower gear set up.
Just so everyone is on the same page, 5.13 is "lower" than, say, 4.10. Just like 1st gear in your tranny is "low gear".
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:13 AM
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So, if i understand you guys correctly, as long as i gusset/sleeve the D30 axle i should be ok going with the 5:13's. I would also have to take it easy ofcourse. If i had the cash getting a D44 front end would be the best bet i assume?
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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Don't assume, because that only makes an ASS out of U and ME.... But yes, getting a D44 would be your best route if you want to see it that way. The cost for gussets & sleeves & U-Joints plus labor to install would probably be the same if not more than a D44.

It's all about how you wheel, how OFTEN you wheel, and how you drive on the street as well.... just my
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:12 AM
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Nitro makes sleeves that don't require welding, but of course the gussets still do. Problem with a dana 44 swap is expense.

-Used ones are not as easy to find as people make it out to be.
-Even IF you did manage to find a used HOUSING, they will still only accept the ruby locker or ARB, which are both very expensive.
-Getting a NEW housing from mopar will run you about 1500, and thats just the housing, add gears, locker, shafts, (you still need the gussets/sleeves), seals, etc. etc. and your up in prorock territory price wise.
-Built prorock to your door is ballpark $4500 bucks.

Your D30 is high pinion, its stronger than the older model, still doesen't make it a top choice but for your needs it'll work.

My advice is to Cyro the gear set, get the Nitro sleeves and have the gussets welded on. This is the most cost effective way of doing what your trying to do.

That being said I've been running 35's on a D30 with no reinforcment at all for 2 years or so. My XJ ran 35's on a low pinion dana 30 for years, and was absolutely punished. No issues ever with either.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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Hey Scotty, what is the Nitro Sleeve you are talking about? You mean you don't have to drop the axle and drill holes in it to spot weld all over after you slide in the sleeve?
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 08:58 AM
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Thanks Scotty. I feel alot better now and I think I'll stick with the D30 and add the gussets/sleeve.

Thanks!
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