D30 strengthening. Sleeves, Truss or both?
 

Which one would be the better option? My current setup is 4.5" Rubicon Express long arm with 37's. I will be adding gussets to the "C's" soon. I would love to go ahead and upgrade to a D44, but that isn't an option at the moment. So, by making the best out of what I have, I would like to hear from some of you who have done this and your thoughts on it. Also, as far as the sleeves go which would be better press in or weld on?

I've never done, nor would I ever, do sleeves. They are a waste. They do not add any significant strength. The truss, in your case, is the only real option. I have a truss on my D44. I've tested it a few times. :) Seems to be holding up.

Now, saying that, be prepared for those to tell you that anything you do to a D30 is a waste and that you should wheel it until you break it, then upgrade to a Prorock for $6,000. But I say do what fits your budget.

Truss, C gussets, and heavy diff cover to support the center section.

That's just it, I did break it, but due to my ex wife cleaning me out during a divorce over the last 6 months (note: never allow all of your money to be handled by your spouse! When they leave so does your life savings):mad:. I am now on a budget for a while. This one is being replaced by the insurance company because of a crash. I just don't want to have the same thing happen again. So, truss, gussets, and possibly sleeves are the budget for now.

A strengthened D30 is not going to help it in a crash, been there. All the brackets get smashed and the insurance will not cover the repair only replace the whole unit.

Truss, sleeved, and gusseted. I went with EVO weld in sleeves.

I know, I was referring to it breaking again in general. Just don't want to have to deal with it.

Has it already been replaced? Or are they cutting you a check that can be used toward the purchase of a beefier axle? If you have discretion on how the money gets spent, but can't get to a complete pr/tera/g2/whatever, maybe go for a bare housing and fill it as funds become available. Just a suggestion to consider all of your possible options.

Like already stated, people will say "beefing" up a D30 is a waste and well, they are right. Now if you don't really plan on doing any crazy wheeling, I'm sure it will last you a while like they do for many. I would say gussets at minimum but that's it. A sleeve will not prevent your axle to bend at the housing and have seen some still snap in the middle.

You can actually get a fully built PR44 with ARB locker, RCV shafts and Dynatrac Pro Steer ball joints for 5k and some change. Less if you drop the pro steers and RCV shafts. Just an idea.

Sorry to hear about your Ex!

I had the option to accept a check for the damages, but opted to just let the shop install another d30. Running out of time on my rental and trying to move. Maybe sometime in the near future I can upgrade and sell this axle and make up some of the cost for the new. I've had a e locker and new gears sitting in my garage for a while now waiting to see what was going to come of my divorce before I installed them.

It's funny you say sorry about your ex, but the way I was done and with what she got away with you would have thought it was me running around. Oh well, lesson learned! Just wish my kids wouldn't of had to deal with it. That bothered me more than anything else. Hard to watch a child who don't understand go through what they have.

Anyways, back on topic, as far as ease of installation which brand would be the best truss kit? Who do you prefer?Been looking at the EVO, Blue Torch and Artec kit. I like the EVO kit because I won't have to weld to the chunk and since it essentially will become one piece once finished.

Exactly the road I am taking. Gonna get my mileage out of this D30 :cool:

Some folks on here don't really have a high opinion for the trusses designed for 'JK' axles, but there have been a couple threads in just the last few weeks talking about it.

Found two of them:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-truss-330764/

Starting around post #77 in this one.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-338618/page2/

I have a Barnes 4WD truss. My welder said it fit better than all of the Artec trusses he has ever installed. I am a big fan of JCR as a company, but have never seen their truss. They make quality stuff, so I don't see this being any different.

Hindsight being 20/20: The check would have gotten you most of the way to a Teraflex D30. The resale value of even a beefed up D30 won't be as much as what the insurance company paid for it bare.

You say you are budget strapped, don't waste a dime on a dana 30. From bending inner C's to broken tubes the axle is not as weak as it is made out to be on the forums. Over a million JK's sold and I have only seen maybe a dozen broken axles or ones with bend C's. That a pretty good failure rate for any product. If you don't have the funds to upgrade then don't abuse your jeep, just common sense. If the axle was as bad as people make it out to be there would be several lawsuits and a recall on the front axle. Put the money you would waste on upgrades into a emergency account and keep saving and recovering from the divorce.

Best answer so far and I TOTALLY AGREE^^^^^.

Coming from someone that currently has a dirty-30, I couldn't agree more. I've got c's, pound in sleeves, teraflex ball joints, and a rancho front skid. As much as I need a regear, I'm not spending another dime on this D30 but it will get through most as long as your not hard throttling the gas and axle-hopping your front axle.

This is my intentions exactly, but considering I spent the money a long time ago in the locker and gears, I am just trying to make best of the current situation. I don't go out and ride it hard, or abuse it, so the 30 should last me for a good while until things settle back down and I can invest into a stronger axle. This is the only reason I have decided to truss and gusset this axle and not go elsewhere with it. If I had not already own $1500 in gears, locker, and install kit then I would have put that money into a d44. I wasn't firmilar with this diff when buying those things or I would have saved it then. Believe me when I say I explored the many options before giving the go ahead on another d30. Wasn't exactly my first choice.

If you have been wheeling with 37's for a while now. You have probably already bent the tubes and Cs

I've not had a single problem until I hit a culvert at 30mph. Haven't seen the first indication that anything is out of line or bent. I've had 37's on it for over a year now. Guess it's about how you drive and treat your stuff. This thread has turned into "you need this axle because", instead of the select few that actually mentioned anything about actually trussing or adding gussets on my d30.

I ran heavy 35s and 37s on a Factory D30 with no C gussets or truss or sleeves since 2008 with no issues. In 2012 (160,000KLM) I had an accident, 30mph direct hit to the front wheel, that bent the control arms and axle brackets but did not bend the housing. That D30 resides under another Jeep now with likely over 200,000klm on it. The insurance replacement D30 (used) was replaced a year ago with a D44HD/J8. That D30 has also found a home under another Jeep. My rig now has 259,000KLM..

You don't NEED to truss or strengthen at all for what you plan on doing, but I would still suggest the heavy diff cover to protect the gears..
Not sure if it was mentioned already but you do need a 3-4" lift to accommodate a truss..