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Damaged rear spring

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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 09:03 PM
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Default Damaged rear spring

The rear driver spring is making contact with the swaybar bolt. I plan on flipping the bolt or grinding down the threads on the bolt to eliminate the issue. As for the spring, does anyone have experience with sprung steel as far as blending and deburring it? If it was a normal piece of steel I would just file it smooth. But in this case I'm not sure if it's completely safe. It looks like the damage is about a 10% through the spring.



For what it's worth, this is the Mopar Stage 3 lift made by Teraflex. I wish I could say something good about this lift kit, there's problems everywhere on it. Maybe Teraflex made this kit for street use and not to be very functional on the trail. The rear passenger brake line is nearly worn through thanks to their brake line drop bracket rubbing on the sway bar. The two front springs are rubbing on the frame rails. The rear driver brake line isn't long enough and is tight when the suspension is fully extended. They didn't include front upper control arms nor an adjustable track bar (stock track bar got bent and was replaced with the MetalCloak bar. All their control arms are fixed length so there's no adjusting anything and the rear axle really should be about an inch more to the rear. This kit is garbage. I'll eventually replace everything with MetalCloak parts as money allows.

I have longer rear brake lines coming in soon so that will be a relief. I'll delete the silly brake line extension bracket as well.

Here's the front frame rails, I think I can just lightly grind this down just a tad to stop the spring from hitting it.

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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 02:16 AM
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I'd check orientation on the spring and see if you can rotate it to where it won't hit. Flipping the bolt doesn't sound like a bad idea though.

As far as your coil up front- is it rubbing the frame on both sides during daily driving like that? I ask because it appears that your coil is tilted slightly, indicating your track bar is too short. The coils themselves look thicker than coils I've seen from other manufacturers, but it may just be optical illusion.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 03:28 AM
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On your rear coils are are upper tangs facing straight back towards the back of the jeep? Also some lifts have you flip the bolt as well. How off centered is your front axle?
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Sv_dude
The rear driver spring is making contact with the swaybar bolt.
Presume you meant to say your TB bolt. I was reading that wondering how the heck your sway bar bolt was hitting the spring! I'd flip that bolt and double-check for clearance.

I agree with Karl on that front spring....it looks like it's not straight up/down, or that it's leaning into the frame, indicating the TB is a bit short. maybe that is just an illusion? Seeing the springs rub the frame is not something we see regularly. Seeing shock bodies hit is, but those springs should have some clearance unless you have some very unique situation going on.

I've never quite understood why people select fixed length arms. I'm not speaking about you specifically, just in general. Every jeep sits differently, and on top of that many jeep builds change over time. The small extra bit to get adjustable arms always seems like a better option so you can change or dial things in. I think the main thing is most people don't know what they don't know when they're making that purchasing decision. It makes for a long uphill battle if you actually get out and use your jeep. Most people aren't really getting off the pavement much at all though. They are built for looks, not function so they never notice these things.


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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:19 AM
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The front track bar is adjustable and when I had it aligned after I replaced the track bar and steering stuff, they centered the axle. Also, the springs are rubbing on both left and right sides of the front frame. This is a relatively new thing, and after looking at the axle again, I think the c gussets may be pushing the base of the spring a little.




And yes, I meant the spring is rubbing on the track bar bolt. I can orient the spring so it’s not hitting the hardware while under normal circumstances. I do offfroad often so the spring will compress and extend and hit the hardware either way.

Anyone think it’s safe to smoothen the spring and keep rocking it? I don’t really want to replace springs now nor do I want to deal with the can of worms that may come with a different height... like needing adjustable control arms.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:29 AM
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yup that is definitely a mess.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:37 AM
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I'd say normal that a spring sits slightly on gusset, but maybe those TF springs are a bit wider than most. Something like that though could be various things specific to your jeep.....springs, control arms, general amount of articulation/uptravel you're getting. Hard to say.

I don't have a good opinion of smoothing out the rear spring. I'd hit it with some rattle can to cover the metal and leave it alone. That is what it is at this point. you're not gaining anything but aesthetics by fixing it, and nobody is going to notice it but you.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:38 AM
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Here’s a better picture of the front springs at rest




I do remember trying to get the gusset tight against the C when I put it on.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
I don't have a good opinion of smoothing out the rear spring. I'd hit it with some rattle can to cover the metal and leave it alone. That is what it is at this point. you're not gaining anything but aesthetics by fixing it, and nobody is going to notice it but you.
Im more concerned about there being sharp edges on a metal part making it prone to cracking. The last thing I want is a spring to come apart while driving... the consequences of that can be quite bad. At least if I smoothed it out then I shouldn’t have to worry about it cracking. Again, I haven’t ever messed with spring steel. I’m was an aircraft mechanic for a while and if there was damaged metal like that then we would blend it to get rid of crack prone areas.
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Old Jul 1, 2020 | 07:44 AM
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as far as the coil hitting the track bar bolt it will not necessarily hit if you turn the coil to position the tang going straight back you won't know until you try. I would have to be able to see the rear track bar bracket but maybe that needs replacing. you might also try some rear coil wedges they are cheap and easy to install. I guess i would be slightly worried about the coil fracturing at that spot no matte if you smoothed it or not.




Last edited by jadmt; Jul 1, 2020 at 07:47 AM.
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