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Dana 30 build

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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #1  
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Default Dana 30 build

Has anyone built up there stock Dana 30 for the purpose of running 37's? Instead of buying a whole new axle for $5000??
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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My plan is to reenforce the C's and truss the axle.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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I'll be doing this eventually. People recommend at least C gussets and weld-in axle sleeves to run 37's. Axle tube brace might be a good idea too.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 03:46 PM
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Im gonna be running a 37's and I ordered the ORE gusset kit. I dont want to drop too much money into it because over all it is still a D30. Im going to do a gear swap, but im going to do that myself to save money to put that towards something else. Im even going to run stock shafts.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:58 PM
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Here is one:

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ighlight=build

Just start adding up the costs, and remember to include the install if you don't do it yourself.


C Gussets
Inner Sleeves
Outer Sleeves
Truss
CA Skids
Heavy duty mounts
Alloys or RCV's
Balljoints
Knuckles
Seals
Locker/limited (if you think your 30 is strong enough to lock?)
Whatever I missed?

Then factor in:
-The small d30 r&p. And if you are re-gearing, the much smaller d30 r&p.
-A PR44 would come pre-geared, with the locker of your choice, alloy inners, thicker and stronger housing than any built up factory housing, caster/pinion correction built in, etc.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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agreed - i see threads like this all the time and find it odd that everyone always talks about gussets and sleeves or even a truss but never hear anyone talk about what's most likely to break - your axle shafts!! of course, if you really do run 37's, you'll most likely want to run 5.13 gears and in a dana 30, the pinion gets to be real small and again, more likely to break than your axle housing.

as nthinuf was suggesting, it makes no sense to build up a dana 30 to the point where you think you can safely run 37's. you are much better off running your 30 till it breaks and, while waiting for that to happen, save up for a prorock 44.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:21 PM
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Sorry to hi-jack, but what else is needed to bolt in a prorock44? I know it's about $2k for the prorock itself, but don't you need axles and everything else? What would the final cost roughly be?
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by XBlacky08X
Sorry to hi-jack, but what else is needed to bolt in a prolock44? I know it's about $2k for the prolock itself, but don't you need axles and everything else? What would the final cost roughly be?
2k is for the bare housing. If you currently have a rubi44 front, you will re-use all of the internals. If you have a d30, you pay $4200 or so and get the housing, the gears, the locker of your choice, and inner alloy axle shafts. You will re-use your d30 outer axle shafts, brakes, etc.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by XBlacky08X
Sorry to hi-jack, but what else is needed to bolt in a prorock44? I know it's about $2k for the prorock itself, but don't you need axles and everything else? What would the final cost roughly be?
if you had a rubicon, you can pretty much transfer all the inners into the prorock and call it a day. assuming you don't as this is a thread about d30's, you would need a carrier or locker, r&p, install kit and axle shafts. you will recycle your d30 brakes and knuckles as they are the same as a 44.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 06:24 PM
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Or, you could pick up an hp44 from a JK Rubicon. I just bought both complete axles from a 2011 Rubicon with 1500 miles on them for $2300. I'm putting them under my 2nd rig, a 97 ZJ. Add sleeves and c-gussets, and for $3000 you could have locked Rubicon axles w/410 gears. That would be a pretty nice upgrade at both ends and handle 37s if you used common sense with the skinny peddle. Add another $1200- $1500 for a 241 tc and your ready for the trails.
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