Death Wobble GoPro Video - HELP!
#21
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How is the pitman arm and gear box? Was reading on other forums that a small percentage could cause DW?
My local 4x4 and I shop took off my steering stabilizer to locate my DW. Maybe another video with it off? Are you able to get another view of the track bar?
Best of luck!
My local 4x4 and I shop took off my steering stabilizer to locate my DW. Maybe another video with it off? Are you able to get another view of the track bar?
Best of luck!
Only thing I find odd about that is my understanding of DW is one wheel moves the opposite direction of the other causing them to bounce back and forth. Wouldn't a sloppy steering box just cause it to steer poorly, not cause the apposing feedback between the wheels? I may not fully understand what death wobble is however. Even though I sure do know what if feels like! :|
#22
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Wow! Based on the work you've done to correct the problem and the video you produced, it looks like your motor mounts have failed. After you hit the bump, the oscillation clearly begins with the motor and reverberates throughout the body causing the body to sway over the front axle.
Your motor and transmission are mounted on rubber mounts to reduce vibration to the cabin and to allow for minor movement of the driveline, but not that much.
I have never known nor suspected motor mounts to cause death wobble, but that video is indisputable.
Your motor and transmission are mounted on rubber mounts to reduce vibration to the cabin and to allow for minor movement of the driveline, but not that much.
I have never known nor suspected motor mounts to cause death wobble, but that video is indisputable.
#23
One thing I noticed on my 2012 JK is the lower mounting point for the front track bar has a hole too large for the bolt. My death wobble would start from there and escalate. It looks from the video that you may have the same thing. Just my two cents.
#24
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UPDATE
Replaced the Track Bar with the Synergy unit. Installed, Identical problem. Same amount of wobble in pretty much the same areas.
Took it to a family members house who is highly mechanically inclined to try the two heads are better than one approach. We systematically checked every bolt in the suspension front and rear. Made some minor adjustments to control arms lengths and track bar length to exactly dial in the alignment and retourque everything again. Also a chance to check all the bushings, johnny joints, heims, ball joints, and bolt holes. Nothing was worn, all joints are very tight. No wallowed bolt holes. Re-mounted the steering stabilizer just to be sure it was 100% secure, where I had it was done in a pinch and wasn't perfect. Now is solid as a rock. Perhaps from the retourque and minor alignment adjustments it felt better at the first test drive but not much later wobble was back. About the same as before.
I also checked the engine mounts and they actually seem perfectly fine. The design appears to allow for a lot of side to side movement due to the length of the mount compared to the size of the attachment point on the engine block. So I don't think this has anything to do with the issue, just a symptom of the wobble.
At this point I am down to steering box. I just have a hard time believing this can CAUSE death wobble since as I understand it wobble is caused by the wheels moving opposite of each other and bouncing back and forth. If the steering box is loose it should just track poorly right?
I haven't had a chance to make a new video yet. Most all the testing has been after dark as I can only work on it after work.
I'm open to any ideas at this point. I'm ok with spending some money on a solution but can't stand just throwing parts at it any longer. Further thoughts anyone?
Replaced the Track Bar with the Synergy unit. Installed, Identical problem. Same amount of wobble in pretty much the same areas.
Took it to a family members house who is highly mechanically inclined to try the two heads are better than one approach. We systematically checked every bolt in the suspension front and rear. Made some minor adjustments to control arms lengths and track bar length to exactly dial in the alignment and retourque everything again. Also a chance to check all the bushings, johnny joints, heims, ball joints, and bolt holes. Nothing was worn, all joints are very tight. No wallowed bolt holes. Re-mounted the steering stabilizer just to be sure it was 100% secure, where I had it was done in a pinch and wasn't perfect. Now is solid as a rock. Perhaps from the retourque and minor alignment adjustments it felt better at the first test drive but not much later wobble was back. About the same as before.
I also checked the engine mounts and they actually seem perfectly fine. The design appears to allow for a lot of side to side movement due to the length of the mount compared to the size of the attachment point on the engine block. So I don't think this has anything to do with the issue, just a symptom of the wobble.
At this point I am down to steering box. I just have a hard time believing this can CAUSE death wobble since as I understand it wobble is caused by the wheels moving opposite of each other and bouncing back and forth. If the steering box is loose it should just track poorly right?
I haven't had a chance to make a new video yet. Most all the testing has been after dark as I can only work on it after work.
I'm open to any ideas at this point. I'm ok with spending some money on a solution but can't stand just throwing parts at it any longer. Further thoughts anyone?
#25
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Man that sucks! Was hoping for great news from you.
Are you using a drop pitman arm?
.....maybe it is the steering gear box? Try your local 4x4 shop for troubleshooting ideas.
Best of luck man!
Are you using a drop pitman arm?
.....maybe it is the steering gear box? Try your local 4x4 shop for troubleshooting ideas.
Best of luck man!
#26
JK Freak
Take it to a tire shop, not the one where you bought your tires, and have them run a roadforce test on your tires. That is about the only thing you havn't looked at yet.
#27
Forum Tech Advisor
If your DW was violent enough and you drove it that way frequently enough to destroy Dynatrac ball joints, it wouldn't surprise me if the steering box is damaged and the front upper axle side control arm bushings are damaged.
You should be able to test the steering box with a dry steering test like I show in video #2. If it is damaged or sloppy, it would cause problems similar to a damaged or worn drag link end.
When you and the friend inspected control arm and trackbar bushings, did you remove each arm/bar separately? Did you inspect the front upper axle side bushings?
1/4" toe in is too much and will result in feathered tire wear, causing wobbles. Between 1/16" and 1/8" is appropriate.
Have you borrowed a set of wheels/tires from a friend to swap and see if that makes some difference?
When you do the dry steering test, is there any knock or clanking?
You need to remove the steering stabilizer until you diagnose the source(s) of the problem. With it on, it is masking the source(s) and making diagnosis more difficult.
You should be able to test the steering box with a dry steering test like I show in video #2. If it is damaged or sloppy, it would cause problems similar to a damaged or worn drag link end.
When you and the friend inspected control arm and trackbar bushings, did you remove each arm/bar separately? Did you inspect the front upper axle side bushings?
1/4" toe in is too much and will result in feathered tire wear, causing wobbles. Between 1/16" and 1/8" is appropriate.
Have you borrowed a set of wheels/tires from a friend to swap and see if that makes some difference?
When you do the dry steering test, is there any knock or clanking?
You need to remove the steering stabilizer until you diagnose the source(s) of the problem. With it on, it is masking the source(s) and making diagnosis more difficult.
#28
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No drop pitman arm.
#29
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#30
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If your DW was violent enough and you drove it that way frequently enough to destroy Dynatrac ball joints, it wouldn't surprise me if the steering box is damaged and the front upper axle side control arm bushings are damaged.
You should be able to test the steering box with a dry steering test like I show in video #2. If it is damaged or sloppy, it would cause problems similar to a damaged or worn drag link end.
When you and the friend inspected control arm and trackbar bushings, did you remove each arm/bar separately? Did you inspect the front upper axle side bushings?
1/4" toe in is too much and will result in feathered tire wear, causing wobbles. Between 1/16" and 1/8" is appropriate.
Have you borrowed a set of wheels/tires from a friend to swap and see if that makes some difference?
When you do the dry steering test, is there any knock or clanking?
You need to remove the steering stabilizer until you diagnose the source(s) of the problem. With it on, it is masking the source(s) and making diagnosis more difficult.
You should be able to test the steering box with a dry steering test like I show in video #2. If it is damaged or sloppy, it would cause problems similar to a damaged or worn drag link end.
When you and the friend inspected control arm and trackbar bushings, did you remove each arm/bar separately? Did you inspect the front upper axle side bushings?
1/4" toe in is too much and will result in feathered tire wear, causing wobbles. Between 1/16" and 1/8" is appropriate.
Have you borrowed a set of wheels/tires from a friend to swap and see if that makes some difference?
When you do the dry steering test, is there any knock or clanking?
You need to remove the steering stabilizer until you diagnose the source(s) of the problem. With it on, it is masking the source(s) and making diagnosis more difficult.
One thing I did do was pull back the caster to about 4deg. It actually helped prevent actual death wobble events. Now I feel the same initial jitter in the wheel when hitting common problem areas in the road but it doesn't seem to develops into a full wobble. I assume due to less angle and front facing weight of the wheels it has less momentum. Obviously not a solution but at least it has made it more drivable while figuring out the true root cause.
I also replaced the upper trackbar brace with the matching synergy unit when I did the track bar. When I pulled in the Jks unit it was still very solid. No slop in the bolt hole. I only replaced it because the cross bar the Jks comes with contacts the new synergy trackbar so I swapped that as well. New unit is solid as a rock.
We did check the steering box as in your video. There doesn't seem to be much play. There is indeed a consistent clunk, light but is present. It can be felt in the steering wheel as well when moved back and forth while parked. Perhaps any is bad enough but it just doesn't seem THAT bad. Given the desire/need for future ram. Assist anyway, perhaps it's still the best option.
Yes, we did remove every control arm. All joints are solid. The upper control arm axle side mounts have been replaced with johnny joints and are nearly new, confirmed in solid shape.
I will bring in the toe in a bit. I heard for larger than 35's 1/4 was normal but it's an easy adjustment so I will give that a shot.
I haven't tried another set of tires only because these SEEM in good shape. But at this point I shouldn't discount any options. So I will try to arrange that.
After these adjustments I will try pulling the stabilizer for further testing.
Thanks very much for all the advise.