Death Wobble...i know i know
Wow I just saw you are still trying to figure out the wobble issue you are having. As I mentioned previously the only true way to fix a death wobble issue is to add trailing distance to your steering geometry. All of the other suggestions as mentioned above are great suggestions for more positive steering, but will not solve your wobble issues. The previous suggestions will however help you dampen or fight death wobble when it does occur which is why so many people use these methods. However it is much more simple in my mind to just change the physics to prevent it in the first place.
By adding larger tires and lifting your jeep you change the angle of entry of your steering forces. To compensate for this you need to adjust by increasing your trailing distance.
To put this a little more direct and clear. Change the length of your Lower Control Arms to add more distance between your wheel axis and steering axis. Measure the distance from your wheel center axis to your steering center axis using a drop weight and string. That distance should be in the range of 3.5 to 4 inches or so with the higher the number adding more stability. Changes as small as 1/4 inch can be felt in added stability. Also remember something else with respect to a jeep specifically. As you go over a hill, bump, rock, etc you also change your steering geometry in relationship to your wheel center rotational axis. This makes having a larger buffer of trail even more important if you do things like high speed trails, sand dunes, or desert stuff.
Cheers and good luck
By adding larger tires and lifting your jeep you change the angle of entry of your steering forces. To compensate for this you need to adjust by increasing your trailing distance.
To put this a little more direct and clear. Change the length of your Lower Control Arms to add more distance between your wheel axis and steering axis. Measure the distance from your wheel center axis to your steering center axis using a drop weight and string. That distance should be in the range of 3.5 to 4 inches or so with the higher the number adding more stability. Changes as small as 1/4 inch can be felt in added stability. Also remember something else with respect to a jeep specifically. As you go over a hill, bump, rock, etc you also change your steering geometry in relationship to your wheel center rotational axis. This makes having a larger buffer of trail even more important if you do things like high speed trails, sand dunes, or desert stuff.
Cheers and good luck
Any way you could put this in diagram form? I think what your saying makes sense, but it's a little hard to visualize. It seems the other methods for fixing Death Wobble seem to be related to tightening bolts and checking worn components, etc.... It makes me wonder though...how are loose bolts and worn components actually causing the wobble to start with? I think some other force (like you described) is actually causing the wobble to begin with and the loose bolts and/or worn components are just allowing just enough play in the steering system for the wobble to turn into a violent shake. It's kinda like going back to that shopping cart wheel thing.... If the wheel is flopping back and forth, this is due to how the wheel is trailing and it's geometry...like you said, but the wobble is worsened because the wheel is loose on its mounts. So the loosness did not cause the wobble to start initially, it just allowed it to become a heck of a lot worse. I don't know if my analogy makes any sense, so please correct me if it does not. I'm really interested in learning more about this.
Last edited by Runewolf1973; Apr 23, 2012 at 02:14 PM.
Im not the best artist but I will try and come up with something on how to illustrate the theory behind what is happening, and then how it directly applies to our jeeps. I need a day or to two figure out a simple way to explain it with real world examples that are easy for everyone to understand.
Something that is worth defining real fast is what exactly a "death wobble" is vs say just sloppy steering or a loose front end. A death wobble occurs when an outside sheer force throws a wheel off balance to a point that is greater then the rotational force of the turning wheel itself. With just standard loose steering or components if you felt a wobble a simple increase in speed would increase the rotational force of the wheel and stop the wobble. With a death wobble the unbalanced force continues to increase and will get worse and no amount of increase in rotational force can correct it. Only stopping the rotation can fix this situation. This is why they call it a death wobble. Feel free to try this with the shopping cart example from before. You will notice after you start moving with the cart no matter if you are going slow or fast the wobble will get progressively worse until it hits a max rotation or you stop.
Another pretty decent example of good trail would be on most motorcycles. If you were to do a wheelie on a dirt bike say, but when you put the front tire back down on the ground the tire was not at a perfect straight line, if you didnt have a good amount of steering trail you would go into a death wobble and be tossed from the bike. Instead the rotational force of the front tire abruptly forces the front tire back into line with the direction of the bike and you continue along. If you get a little unsettled with your landing a slight acceleration will straighten it right out fast due to an increase in the rotational force of the wheels.
Ill get back to everyone soon
Cheers
Something that is worth defining real fast is what exactly a "death wobble" is vs say just sloppy steering or a loose front end. A death wobble occurs when an outside sheer force throws a wheel off balance to a point that is greater then the rotational force of the turning wheel itself. With just standard loose steering or components if you felt a wobble a simple increase in speed would increase the rotational force of the wheel and stop the wobble. With a death wobble the unbalanced force continues to increase and will get worse and no amount of increase in rotational force can correct it. Only stopping the rotation can fix this situation. This is why they call it a death wobble. Feel free to try this with the shopping cart example from before. You will notice after you start moving with the cart no matter if you are going slow or fast the wobble will get progressively worse until it hits a max rotation or you stop.
Another pretty decent example of good trail would be on most motorcycles. If you were to do a wheelie on a dirt bike say, but when you put the front tire back down on the ground the tire was not at a perfect straight line, if you didnt have a good amount of steering trail you would go into a death wobble and be tossed from the bike. Instead the rotational force of the front tire abruptly forces the front tire back into line with the direction of the bike and you continue along. If you get a little unsettled with your landing a slight acceleration will straighten it right out fast due to an increase in the rotational force of the wheels.
Ill get back to everyone soon
Cheers
Im not the best artist but I will try and come up with something on how to illustrate the theory behind what is happening, and then how it directly applies to our jeeps. I need a day or to two figure out a simple way to explain it with real world examples that are easy for everyone to understand.
Ill get back to everyone soon
Cheers
Ill get back to everyone soon
Cheers
Here's an interesting video of a guy explaining a type of Death Wobble encountered on a motorbike......
Motorcycle "Speed Wobble" - YouTube
Motorcycle "Speed Wobble" - YouTube
Last edited by Runewolf1973; Apr 23, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
Very good information here, i've been reading since my DW started about a month ago. I have a 09 JKU Rubi that I tow behind A RV. 30k miles, 4 inch PC lift, BFG 315/70x17's. I've installed new steering shock, tie rods, drag link, set caster to 4.5, 9/16 bolts in stock track bar, new cam bolts in lower arms, alignment and wheel balance at 30psi. Still have DW. I lowered the psi to 25 psi and on the same drive, no DW yet. I put on 4 factory tires and wheels off a 2011 Wrangler and the problem goes away. I think it may be the uneven slight tire wear from the RV towing thats causing my problem?? The BFG's have 12k miles on them and the tread looks good overall, just slight wear. I don't like the DW
Originally Posted by jwoody1
Very good information here, i've been reading since my DW started about a month ago. I have a 09 JKU Rubi that I tow behind A RV. 30k miles, 4 inch PC lift, BFG 315/70x17's. I've installed new steering shock, tie rods, drag link, set caster to 4.5, 9/16 bolts in stock track bar, new cam bolts in lower arms, alignment and wheel balance at 30psi. Still have DW. I lowered the psi to 25 psi and on the same drive, no DW yet. I put on 4 factory tires and wheels off a 2011 Wrangler and the problem goes away. I think it may be the uneven slight tire wear from the RV towing thats causing my problem?? The BFG's have 12k miles on them and the tread looks good overall, just slight wear. I don't like the DW

Originally Posted by Offroad
I had a DW only when going at 30-40 mph and hitting a bump with the right front tire. It ended up being caused by low tire pressure. I aired up my tires to 28 psi and the DW is gone 



