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DIY control arm

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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:17 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Wuebben.2
I am an avid DIYer too and was hoping to save a bunch on a lift by buying one that lacks some of the major components like control arms so that I lock, regear, and lift at the same time. I'm also a pretty good welder (I'm a high school shop teacher and teach welding, so I don't have any certifications but I am pretty good). For another project I just bought 20ft of 2" OD .25" walled piping for $235 which is actually what gave me the idea to start with. I do still need to price out the joints.

Thanks for all the input, I going to continue researching and debating with myself.
Look at barnes4x4 for traded bungs. They have the cheapest price I have found plus you can get a wrench on it to tighten the jam nut. Most companies sell builder parts for their joints. I have both metal cloak and synergy sitting on my work bench. I know Currie sells them as well. Many places like ruff stuff, ballistic fabrication, barnes 4x4 will sell bushing kits for control arms that are affordable but they are not built for extreme stuff with massive travel. If you are under 12" of shock travel and don't do a lot of mass articulation then they are good to use at the frame side as it keeps the bend in the arm where it needs to be. Metal cloaks and synergy's builder joints work better for more extreme stuff at the frame side but at more cost. Johnny joints are also a good tired and true joint. Most of the money in control arms is the joints and not the R&D that goes into them on a short arm, its one bend to match the factory bend and set up the ends.

Your 2" is good for the lower arms but I would use some 1.5" or 1.75" for the uppers and look into double adjusters for the uppers. Synergy sells the double adjuster and it just makes life much easier when adjusting if you are always messing with the jeep. If not then save the money.

Last edited by TheDirtman; Mar 28, 2018 at 07:19 AM.
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:29 AM
  #12  
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I would look at Core4x4. You break they replace!
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:32 AM
  #13  
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Who breaks control arms, really? I have never seen a broken control arm, ever. Some bent long arms but never broke. I broke a metal cloak joint once off an arm but that was before they came out with their forged joint.
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 11:13 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
Who breaks control arms, really? I have never seen a broken control arm, ever. Some bent long arms but never broke. I broke a metal cloak joint once off an arm but that was before they came out with their forged joint.

I was looking at the warranty as a whole.
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 01:04 PM
  #15  
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That warrantee is for the arms not the joints
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Old Mar 28, 2018 | 07:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Wuebben.2
I am an avid DIYer too and was hoping to save a bunch on a lift by buying one that lacks some of the major components like control arms so that I lock, regear, and lift at the same time. I'm also a pretty good welder (I'm a high school shop teacher and teach welding, so I don't have any certifications but I am pretty good). For another project I just bought 20ft of 2" OD .25" walled piping for $235 which is actually what gave me the idea to start with. I do still need to price out the joints.

Thanks for all the input, I going to continue researching and debating with myself.
Sounds like an interesting project and from what I've seen of control arm joints, that would steer me away since I wouldn't know where to start to ensuring the joints are set at the right angles, material, etc.

If I may? Could we back up some? Why are you replacing all 8 control arms? Most don't typically do that unless you start going over 4inches of lift and rolling with 37 or larger tires.

Just trying to figure out another path to eliminate the $1200 delima you're looking at.
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 06:29 AM
  #17  
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ON a short arm all you have to do is pull a factory arm and match the angle and set the threaded end so you are at factory length when the end is screwed all the way in. Lots of end joints out there but yes it is important to choose the right ones for you as this is the bulk of the expense. I have a thread on a comparison or control arm joints on Jkfreaks.com Control Arm End Joints Comparison and review
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Old Mar 29, 2018 | 10:37 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
ON a short arm all you have to do is pull a factory arm and match the angle and set the threaded end so you are at factory length when the end is screwed all the way in. Lots of end joints out there but yes it is important to choose the right ones for you as this is the bulk of the expense. I have a thread on a comparison or control arm joints on Jkfreaks.com Control Arm End Joints Comparison and review
^this.

You only need to mess with geometry calculators when you're relocating or changing the positioning of the brackets on the axles and/or frame.


Make your own arms, it's fun.
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