Do any of you have this Lift?
#1
Do any of you have this Lift?
Full Traction 3" Premium-Flex Suspension System
Part Number: FTS7123H
2007 JK Wrangler (2 door model);Includes 5100 Series Hydraulic Shocks;Components are laser-cut for the best fitment to your new JK; Control arms are manufactured from durable 1-1/2" x .188 wall DOM steel tubing; Equipped with Full Traction rebuildable flex joints and long lasting polyurethane bushings; New-generation front sway bar disconnects; Ride-tuned coil springs; No driveline modifications are necessary
It says No driveline modifications are necessary Is this true? Or will i need Drive shafts?
Part Number: FTS7123H
2007 JK Wrangler (2 door model);Includes 5100 Series Hydraulic Shocks;Components are laser-cut for the best fitment to your new JK; Control arms are manufactured from durable 1-1/2" x .188 wall DOM steel tubing; Equipped with Full Traction rebuildable flex joints and long lasting polyurethane bushings; New-generation front sway bar disconnects; Ride-tuned coil springs; No driveline modifications are necessary
It says No driveline modifications are necessary Is this true? Or will i need Drive shafts?
#2
Need more details.
With a two door you could possible need them over time. If its an auto the problem is the front drive shaft hits the bolt on the transmission as well as the skid plat. This causes the rubber boot to tear. It isnt that big of a deal though.
After market driveshafts have a smaller diameter shaft so this isn't a problem. I plan on notching my skid but dont think there is anything you can do about the bolt.
I have 7000 miles on mine since the lift and have no issues except the torn boot. I have a 2door auto.
With a two door you could possible need them over time. If its an auto the problem is the front drive shaft hits the bolt on the transmission as well as the skid plat. This causes the rubber boot to tear. It isnt that big of a deal though.
After market driveshafts have a smaller diameter shaft so this isn't a problem. I plan on notching my skid but dont think there is anything you can do about the bolt.
I have 7000 miles on mine since the lift and have no issues except the torn boot. I have a 2door auto.
#4
Don't be fooled by the ad, you will need new driveshafts.
Also, for the little extra, you should go ultimate so you can get adjustable arms. No two Jeeps are the same, so why they even offer a fixed length arm is beyond me.
Also, for the little extra, you should go ultimate so you can get adjustable arms. No two Jeeps are the same, so why they even offer a fixed length arm is beyond me.
#5
I've got the 3" Premium (on a 4dr) and no problems to speak of. Haven't been down underneath lately to check the boot, but last time I was still fine. The above post is correct, the Premium does not come w/the adjustable control arms. At this point, I'm fine with that. I can still drive 75mph and feel comfortable... but if you did have the adjustable control arms, your comfort level would/should be better. Mine is going to be a little more 'touchy' steering wise than one w/adjustable control arms. Just means that you have to get use to driving it more and it's not going to be like driving the wife's Z71 Suburban. But again, it's not that bad at all.
#6
If you have a 6-speed, you will not need new drive shafts. If you have an auto, you will need to remove the auto skid or cut a notch in it so that the DS boot will clear it but a new DS is not needed. Now, in the rear, the steeper angle to the DS will cause your CV boots to wear out prematurely but not overnight or even in a few months. Need I say, you will not need drive shafts with this lift. You may want them sooner than later but it will not be requried to drive your Jeep.
As far as the fixed lenght arms go, I personally would prefer to go with a set of adjustable arms myself as they would allow you to dial in your suspension and if you can afford it, I would recommend that you spend the extra cash as you will find it to be worth it.
As far as the fixed lenght arms go, I personally would prefer to go with a set of adjustable arms myself as they would allow you to dial in your suspension and if you can afford it, I would recommend that you spend the extra cash as you will find it to be worth it.
#7
Why are you so adament that driveshafts aren't need? More and more are having ds failures w/ 3" or more lift on the 2dr. And no, it's not just the front boot ripping either, it's the rear. And to say when the ds will go crap is a complete guess, some have had them go in 300, other 10,000. You never know, it depends on how it is driven and wheeled.
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#8
Why are you so adament that driveshafts aren't need? More and more are having ds failures w/ 3" or more lift on the 2dr. And no, it's not just the front boot ripping either, it's the rear. And to say when the ds will go crap is a complete guess, some have had them go in 300, other 10,000. You never know, it depends on how it is driven and wheeled.
Originally Posted by Rubimon
With a two door you could possible need them over time. If its an auto the problem is the front drive shaft hits the bolt on the transmission as well as the skid plat. This causes the rubber boot to tear. It isnt that big of a deal though.
#9
I think there might be. I seem to remember Clackey and 100dollarman tearing up their boots! I had a custom driveshaft guy look at mine. He laughed and shook his head at what jeep has done with the joints. He didnt think the torn boot was any big deal. He said eventually I'll want to do it right and get some new driveshafts anyway but said to just drive it as is until these are shot. These could last quite a while he said.
#10
If your boot isnt torn yet you might think about cutting a little clearance with the skid plate in advance. Not sure if the transmission bolt is an issue on the auto 4 drs or not. You will just have to lie under there and look. It took no time at all to shear off the front boot clamp once I had more flex.