So has anyone used the Coast direct bolt on front drive shaft???? I've taken out two stockers by the dreaded "hits on tranny case and tears boot" thing, in Moab....Seems if that direct bolt on thing works, I can keep the torn stocker for a back up.....Any positives or negatives welcome....I've been thinking about this thing for a while and haven't pulled thee trigger because haven't seen any activity about this shaft on here....
http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_JK.htm

 

I've read that the direct bolt on type gets the double cardon joint too far from the tc and is subject to potential vibration that could damage bearings and the tc itself. Just what others have said. I went with the Tom Woods one to keep both ends closer.

 

I actually have the Coast bolt in front shaft and have had zero problems and I drive freeway speeds to Vegas now and then with absolutly no issues so far. It has been about 7 months and 7000 miles since the install. I also keep the stock shaft (repalced after the boot was torn off on the first outing) for future reference. I personally didn't want to tear into the diff. yoke assy and have to deal with set up and possible problems with crush sleeve .

 

I see you have a 4in TF lift. You should go with a new yoke style for the amount of lift you have. The OE replacement type may be ok for 2-3in of lift, but is not the best for 4in and up of lift.Read my post here...https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...=1#post1789655.. I had nothing but probs with that style ds until I got a new yoke style.

 

yes but my main worry about changing to the whole new yoke driveshaft is....right now I have no shimmy or shakes or anything with my lift and tires....If I go to the new yoke shaft I feel that I may have to chage my caster or camber and then i fall into the group of people here who have the damn death wobble.....I just dont want to touch it...

 

Changing the yokes is no biggie. Just pull the old ones off and install those provided with the shaft to 160# torque and it's good to go. I confirmed this with my dealer and he said the crush sleeve will be fine with that and the pre load will be ok. Some JKs are running at 3 degree castor to get the pinion angle right with no driving problems. I'm going for that setup.

 

I had the coast driveshaft direct bolt in and I couldn't get out of my driveway the vibration was so bad. I ended up going with yoke replacements and I am happy with them.

 

You'll most likely have to adjust castor with the OE adapter flange DS anyway. Get the yokes.
I wouldn't worry about the DW thing at this point, worst you may get is some vbes in the ds you have to address with castor. Also, there is no camber adjustment, if camber is out of spec, you have bent C's or bad ball joints.
In addition, I've installed 3 different lifts, trackbars, brackets, dragflip kit, frt lower CA's( which have been adjusted an untold amount of times)on my JK. I have never had a Death Wobble prob. If you get DW, its because something is loose,bent,worn,broke,installed wrong. Do your stuff right and you won't get DW. I've also never heard of anyone getting it from a ds install, so your pretty safe.

 

I really don’t think that is the case. I slapped on new yokes and drive lines and never felt a difference. As long as the drive line is balanced you should not feel a vibration. There is no way for a yoke to change caster or camber. Go for it, you will not regret it.

 

So back to this....If you remove the pinion nut to put the new yokes on, don't you need to replace the crush sleeve???? I heard if you take the load off it by taking off the pinion nut then you have to replace it....It's kind of a one time deal.