i have alot of mods and they are listed below in my sig. i still have a problem at full flex hiting my tranny pan and transmission. i have no tranny skid plate on my auto and went with a new rock krawler pan due to ripping my stock one with my coast 1310 driveshaft and not being able to get the skid to clear the driveshaft. i have the aev high steer kit, terra flex rear track bar bracket and jks front and rear track bars. they are adjusted to stock length and my axle is as far as it will go to the driverside wich is centered both front and back. my jk rides great and this is my only issue.

my problem is both in the front and back. the back driveshaft hits the gas tank skid and can be fixed with a smaller aftermarket one. the front however is a probelm i can't figure out how to fix. this only happens at passanger side front tire up on a rock and driver side tire drooped down. it causes the pan to leak and puts a nice 1/2 in ring around my driveshaft. i have no driveshaft vibrations and just had it checked out and rebuilt at a local shop just incase. it is like my whole engine, trans and tansfercase is mounted about a 1/4 to half in towards the drivers side vs other jks without this problem.

how do i fix this? are the motor trans mounts oblong holes and can be slide one way or another? i am at a loss thanks for the help.

 

Do you have adjustable control arms...didnt see it in your sig.? Maybe thats the difference.

 

yes i do currie front lowers. i guess i could lengthen the passanger side or shorten the drivers. but they measure out to 1/8 of each other passanger side being just a hair longer due to crown in the road. that would also not explain the rear cause they are all stock and i have not heard of anyone hitting the rear driveshaft on the gas tank skid either and alot of us 4 doors jeepers run the stock rear shaft.

 

anyone have this problem with a aftermarket shaft?

 

bump for some ideas

 

i would keep axels centered and modify the tranny pan. i would check out the engine and transmission mounts but i would think there would be alot of vibration if either was bad.

 

thanks for the reply plannman. i have the jks track bars adjust as short as they will go wich is stock length. i thought about cuting them and shortening them by a 1/2 in or so but not sure of what they are made of to weld it back together or if i could just cut off the end of the threads if there is enough to still thread back into the bar. need to take it apart and look but i preffer to keep my axles centered due to the speedbumps being inside my coils. they need to stay pretty close to center to not hit the coils on up and down travel. as well as the back speedbumps lining up with my fame for them to work.

my axles are centered and i have had this problem for a while i am just finally getting around to trying to fix it. i only have issues offroad so it is at low speed but it is causing my pan to leak due to the pressure it puts on the thicker heavy duty rk tranny pan i just put on and my bolt were it hits is now stripped due to the downward pressure of the drive shaft hitting it. my stocker finnaly ripped from the pressure. i would guess that i need a 1/4 to 1/2 more clearnce to not hit anymore. i really think the whole motor trans and transfer case needs to slide passanger side a 1/2 inch.

any other thoughts on this since i can't really adjust it any shorter without alot of work and i won't be centered then?

 

this might not be a bad idea. it hits the actual transmission and then slides down the transmision to the pan and puts pressure on the lip of the pan. how much of the trans can i cut off before it becomes to much and starts a leak. let me take a picture and post it up in a few to show were it is hitting.

 

That i would not do. I thought it was only the pan causing a problem. Maybe try some limiting straps.

 

i agree lol. rule number 1 never cut up your transmission.