I've searched and searched and still not clear on what d/s to go with. I'm installing my 4" TeraFlex full flexarm kit next week and will have 37's the following week or so. So do I want one with replacement yokes, flange adapters, or a mix of both? Which shafts come with yokes, or flanges (Coast, Tom Woods, Adams..etc)? I'm guessing I want one with Spicer or Neapco joints, right? From what I've gathered you want to try to stay away from the flange type because it doesn't give you as much length thus increasing the angle of operation...or does it matter at all? Since I'll be running such a heavy tire/wheel combo should I run 1310 or 1350 shafts? It seems like the only ones I've seen f/s with flange type are the Tom Woods, it's hard to tell because nobody really specifies. I thought Adam's d/s's replaced both yokes (at the t-case and the pinion) but I just stumbled across a thread on here that said it only replaced the yoke on t-case. Now I'm really confused. If someone could shed some light on who offers what and what I need that'd be great...thanks.

 

You should be looking at running 1350's if you plan on running 37's. If I may suggest looking into JE Reel D/S as they come with Made in the USA Neapco U-Joints and replacement yokes (1350). Best bang for your buck and great customer service. Made here in So Cali.

 

Give Dave a call at northridge4x4 great customer service, I have coast 1310's front and rear and run 38's at 6+" of lift... Hope this helps

Justin

 

I need the same questions answered. I am running 37's and need to replace my drive shaft. Stock is a 1330 I’ve read that I should be fine with a 1310 but I have a hard time going down from 1330 to 1310. It only makes since to me to go up to the 1350 but I could save money for more mods if I go with the 1310.



What should I get?

 

I am still running stock front and rear and from what I gather if you wheel at all or run bigger than a 35" tire the 1350 is the way to go. Many run the 1310 but it isn't recommended by any of the Driveline manufacturers. I would definitely call Dave at Northridge, he sold me my PR44 housing and is great at taking care of us JK guys.

 

I have 35s and used adams driveshafts 1310s. I don't wheel to hard but also if I'm gonna break something the u-joint is easier to change on the trail than a axle shaft or ring and pinion remember pick where your weak link is .

 

fact, 99% of the driveline mfgs do not recommend 1350 for 37s...

gotta love internet misinformation

 

Amen. All 1350s do is make you ring and pinion the weak point. What do you want to fix? A broken u joint or a grenaded differential?? 1310 is the way to go for the vast majority of jk owners.

 

i'd go with 1310's with u joints... not the cv version. So yes you will have to replace the output on both the transfer case and axle.

I have a coast front driveshaft and I had to replace the output flang on both the diff and trasnfer case

 

Generally, 1310' for 35's and under, 1350's for 37's and up.