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Driveshaft clarification...help!!!

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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #11  
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No input on flange vs yoke type? Seems like I'm hearing a 50/50 feedback on 1310 vs 1350
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 11:41 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by hypeiv
i'd go with 1310's with u joints... not the cv version. So yes you will have to replace the output on both the transfer case and axle.

I have a coast front driveshaft and I had to replace the output flang on both the diff and trasnfer case
I thought the double cardan WAS the cv version and was the type of d/s you want??!? Now I'm really lost. Here's how I see it, there's basically two types of d/s out there, either single cardan (single u-joint) or double cardan (two u-joints referred too as a cv at the t-case and a single u-joint at the pinion). Am I way off par here?
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #13  
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Yoke..................................Flange...... .....................................?
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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I'm running into the same questions but to add on more to the mix. I have a 08 2 door and I'm planning to go 35's and a 3 inch lift. Do I need to replace just the front driveshaft or both of them.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #15  
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***crickets***
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by onecrazyfuq
I'm running into the same questions but to add on more to the mix. I have a 08 2 door and I'm planning to go 35's and a 3 inch lift. Do I need to replace just the front driveshaft or both of them.
You will want to replace your front shaft at that height. The stock shaft will contact the tranny skid causing it to bust the seal, which failure soon follows. I just replaced front and rear shafts on my 2 door with RK lift. I've read and heard that the rear is fine as long as your angles are good and control arms are set properly if you have adjustable. Rear is not a necessity, front is.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Here is an idea.....Give Adams Driveshaft a call (702- 568-5680) and ask them! I mean that is their business right, building drivelines. Which they do build in house. I am local to Adams and he wheels with us all the time. He is a great guy and fellow wheeler that knows his stuff. Give him a call you will not regret it.

Or you can listen to all the armchair quarterbacks, your call.

Last edited by NVRDUN; Feb 20, 2013 at 02:27 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Call Northwoods 4x4, David will tell you what exactly you need. He has great prices and free shipping.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by NVRDUN
Here is an idea.....Give Adams Driveshaft a call (702- 568-5680) and ask them! I mean that is their business right, building drivelines. Which they do build in house. I am local to Adams and he wheels with us all the time. He is a great guy and fellow wheeler that knows his stuff. Give him a call you will not regret it.

Or you can listen to all the armchair quarterbacks, your call.
I'm looking for unbiased information. If I call Adams and ask what's the best d/s to buy what do you think they're going to tell me....a Coast unit? Looks like best I'm going to be able to do is call northridge or maybe morris and ask them, they don't have as much bias as an actual manufacturer....I just ASSUMED there were knowledgeable people on here that could shed some light on the subject...guess not. Oh well, I tried.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by anti-dirt
So do I want one with replacement yokes, flange adapters, or a mix of both? Which shafts come with yokes, or flanges (Coast, Tom Woods, Adams..etc)? I'm guessing I want one with Spicer or Neapco joints, right? From what I've gathered you want to try to stay away from the flange type because it doesn't give you as much length thus increasing the angle of operation...or does it matter at all? Since I'll be running such a heavy tire/wheel combo should I run 1310 or 1350 shafts?
These were your original questions. These questions seem appropriate for someone who makes this stuff rather than just sells it.
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