Driveshaft question
Yeah, I understand all of the benefits of a new shafts, but I just haven’t seen any real world experience with junk getting into the joint and causing problems. I’m sure after my first off-road trip there will be dust and dirt mixed in with the grease, and I don’t mind getting my hands dirty and adding/cleaning as necessary, but I don’t want stuff getting up in there causing undue wear. Thanks for the feedback. 
Interesting? Why did you go with uppers in the front first? Most get the lowers first to adjust castor. With uppers, you would have to shorten the arms to correct castor, effectively shortening your wheelbase (a tiny bit) and closer to the back of the wheel well. I know Tom Woods takes your measurement from the top of the transfer case output shaft to the pinion nut, or something like that. So, when you give your measurements, you better be sure that's the length you want them to make it for you. TW custom makes your DS based on your specific measurements. Now I'm sure they build in tolerances and 1/4" either way won't make a huge difference. Hope this helps.
I have a manual. And it is the cv joint at the transfer case, not the one in the middle. I'm pretty sure it's spitting grease because the metal clamp has moved about a quarter inch or so toward the back which is not letting it seal correctly. I'm thinking it's doing this because of the angle. The boot is pulling on the clamp. I think I'm just going to order an aftermarket. I have my caster set between 6 and 7 degrees.
I have a manual. And it is the cv joint at the transfer case, not the one in the middle. I'm pretty sure it's spitting grease because the metal clamp has moved about a quarter inch or so toward the back which is not letting it seal correctly. I'm thinking it's doing this because of the angle. The boot is pulling on the clamp. I think I'm just going to order an aftermarket. I have my caster set between 6 and 7 degrees.
On my 4 door, so far it's holding up. But still a matter of time before I replace that too for something stronger. Have you seen the stocker when it's shredded? I just have concerns with the strength of the tube itself.
Got ya! On mine the boot in the middle tore and grease was spitting from there. You are correct, the boot at the CV is compromised because of the steeper angle so you will definitely need a new aftermarket DS that can accommodate angles the lift is creating. Most AM DS have a double carden joint to accommodate this.



I ordered a 1310 Tom Woods
, Do I need to get adjustable control arms?
I have Adjustable uppers in the front. Will I need lowers to make this application work properly. 