So turns out my front driveshaft is slightly bent. Since I have to change it, should I get a HD one? Length? OEM? Running a 2.5" lift on a 2dr if that makes a difference. I know driveshaft angle is a concern regarding life span.

 

2.5" lift isn't that bad on the front DS, but if you're looking for something stronger an aftermarket 1310 DS would do. I'm debating which brand myself right now but I know Woods is highly regarded and they have illustrations on their website of what to measure.

 

Just remember that with a double cardan at the t-case, the front pinion and the drive shaft have to be pretty close to aligned with each other.

 

Tom Woods is Good so is JE Reel. Both know what they are doing for JK's. Don't get suckered into a 1350 the bigger joints bind more, also yes they are stronger than the 1310 but a serviceable weak spot is a good thing.

I have also had good luck with Teraflex DS's/

 

Cool. Thanks for the info all.
I'm looking for budget friendly and something a little stronger than stock.
I think teraflex might be a good compromise.

 

If you go aftermarket, you'll need to have adjustable upper or lower control arms. The pinion will need to be rotated. You'll get some spring bow from that, but it's only a visual bother.

You should also know that the rzeppa joints on the stock driveshaft are stronger than a 1310. They don't require maintenance either.

In addition, you'll have to replace the yoke on the pinion. The correct way to do that is pull the axle shafts and measure the pinion preload then replace the yoke and adjust the preload to around 5 in lbs more. You'll need to find a sweet torque wrench to be accurate at 15 in lbs. Can't be a click type either.

So people and manufacturers will say xxx foot lbs or torque. Some will go by feel, some by marking the pinion nut. You may get lucky and it works out. The actual torque range for proper preload can range by over 100 ft lbs. Get it wrong and you'll burn up the pinion bearing (among other issues).

Also be sure that you get the pinion angle right. You can do some serious driveline damage if it's wrong.

Alternatively, you can likely buy a good condition used OEM shaft for $100.

 

I had no idea an aftermarket DS was so involved.

 

Oookaaay. Maybe I'll just stick to a stock shift then... for now

 

Agree.

Disagree. I have friends that (just like I will) go by manufacturer torque specs with the yoke/pinion nut and have been fine. I'm not saying you are incorrect for the record, just that I don't think that's the only way to skin that cat.

 

That is method stated in the factory service manual. It is the only way to ensure proper torque. Keep in mind that the pinion nut torque is what determines pinion preload. We're dealing in units of single digit inch lbs. Doesn't take much to be off the mark. I have seen plenty of people smoke their pinion bearings in 1000-5000 miles post install. Some had additional issues arise as well. For those that have done correct method, I have seen the actual torque range from 150-260 ft lbs. So, if you're the guy who needed 260 and went 160, it's not going to work out well.

I'll agree that for the experienced mechanic, you can get directionally close by feel or by marking the pinion nut. I'd either need to really trust someone or have a shop install it who will warranty the work (although, most would probably say any issue was do to something else and tell you to go pound sand).

Personally, I prefer to do things the correct way. A little extra work, but worth it in the end.