driveshaft question
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,907
Likes: 185
From: Maine
That is method stated in the factory service manual. It is the only way to ensure proper torque. Keep in mind that the pinion nut torque is what determines pinion preload. We're dealing in units of single digit inch lbs. Doesn't take much to be off the mark. I have seen plenty of people smoke their pinion bearings in 1000-5000 miles post install. Some had additional issues arise as well. For those that have done correct method, I have seen the actual torque range from 150-260 ft lbs. So, if you're the guy who needed 260 and went 160, it's not going to work out well.
I'll agree that for the experienced mechanic, you can get directionally close by feel or by marking the pinion nut. I'd either need to really trust someone or have a shop install it who will warranty the work (although, most would probably say any issue was do to something else and tell you to go pound sand).
Personally, I prefer to do things the correct way. A little extra work, but worth it in the end.
I'll agree that for the experienced mechanic, you can get directionally close by feel or by marking the pinion nut. I'd either need to really trust someone or have a shop install it who will warranty the work (although, most would probably say any issue was do to something else and tell you to go pound sand).
Personally, I prefer to do things the correct way. A little extra work, but worth it in the end.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 0
From: Ontario Canada
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Spend a few minutes browsing Tom Woods website, both the JK and Tech Info areas. Lots of good info to confuse you even more.
One benefit to the aftermarket shafts that i did not see mentioned is that they are considerably thinner than stock. Maybe not an issue at 2.5", but can be a consideration. Another thing not mentioned is that there are aftermarket driveshafts with adapter plates that bolt straight up to factory flanges (yokes? I don't remember which is which...). They have their own negative in that the mounting plates are thicker and move the joint further out, which in turn slightly increases the operating angles. But just throwing it out there as another option.
One benefit to the aftermarket shafts that i did not see mentioned is that they are considerably thinner than stock. Maybe not an issue at 2.5", but can be a consideration. Another thing not mentioned is that there are aftermarket driveshafts with adapter plates that bolt straight up to factory flanges (yokes? I don't remember which is which...). They have their own negative in that the mounting plates are thicker and move the joint further out, which in turn slightly increases the operating angles. But just throwing it out there as another option.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,813
Likes: 0
From: Nokesville, Va
That is method stated in the factory service manual. It is the only way to ensure proper torque. Keep in mind that the pinion nut torque is what determines pinion preload. We're dealing in units of single digit inch lbs. Doesn't take much to be off the mark. I have seen plenty of people smoke their pinion bearings in 1000-5000 miles post install. Some had additional issues arise as well. For those that have done correct method, I have seen the actual torque range from 150-260 ft lbs. So, if you're the guy who needed 260 and went 160, it's not going to work out well.
I'll agree that for the experienced mechanic, you can get directionally close by feel or by marking the pinion nut. I'd either need to really trust someone or have a shop install it who will warranty the work (although, most would probably say any issue was do to something else and tell you to go pound sand).
Personally, I prefer to do things the correct way. A little extra work, but worth it in the end.
I'll agree that for the experienced mechanic, you can get directionally close by feel or by marking the pinion nut. I'd either need to really trust someone or have a shop install it who will warranty the work (although, most would probably say any issue was do to something else and tell you to go pound sand).
Personally, I prefer to do things the correct way. A little extra work, but worth it in the end.
Either way, I don't think it should be made to sound so complicated. With some basic tools it's something you can do yourself in your driveway (although it might be a huge PITA). If you're unsure of what was said, do some quick research and learn what is involved and if you feel like you can handle it, research some more and tackle it. Otherwise take it to a shop and have them do it, they might let you watch and gain a better understanding of it as well.