I went with JE reel because they were sold by the place I bought my lift from. Like the others have said reel/Adams/woods/coast all quality can't go wrong with any of them. Just stay away from cheap stuff.

 

^^^^^
This

Same shit, different stickers. Who's can you get the cheapest on the day that your ordering one. That is the best one.

 

Agree'd, locally here with spicer joints and cost all of $300.00 ea vs $450-$700 on line from "specialty" shops.

 

I highly recommend the Adams shafts also. No issues 7k lbs loaded up on 40"
I've tried just about all the DS manufacturers

 

What he said! I have a Adams in back and a Tattons up front, both good shafts.

 

What's the difference between a 1310 and a 1350? I noticed on the Mopar driveshaft they supply with their recent 2in and 4in lifts, they're both labeled as 1310 shafts but different P/Ns between the lifts.

 

The 1310 setup uses 1310 series U joints 3.25" wide
The 1350 setup uses 1350 series U joints closer to 3.6" wide with larger caps, bodies & journals.

1350 joints can operate at more severe angles and at a higher load. 1310's are pretty tough, if you have good driveline angles a well balanced shaft can handle 37's. Also depends on how hard you are on your rig.

 

1310 more range of motion in the joints

1350 stronger joints

Factory driveshafts use joints that fall between these 2 in strength, but the shaft tubing itself is very thin and weak, damages easily. Also the operating range (usable driveline angles) on the joints is less.

 

In addition to what the two posts before this said, people typically run a 1310 series in the front and a 1350 series in the rear.

 

Up till right now I was running both front and rear 1310 without any issues. I still run a 1310 up front but had to go to a 1410 on the rear due to parts constraints.