Dumb Relay Question
JK Jedi
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 10
From: Georgia
Mine didn't either for the lockers since it didn't come with lockers from the factory. you have relays for other things though that are neatly kept in the box under your hood.
Here is how it was explained to me (on this forum) because I didnt' understand them either.
A relay is essentially a switch for a component that draws a large amperage and could handle the large amperage. This allows us to use a tiny toggle switch to turn on/off. Without the relay, you would need a much larger switch.
Here is how it was explained to me (on this forum) because I didnt' understand them either.
A relay is essentially a switch for a component that draws a large amperage and could handle the large amperage. This allows us to use a tiny toggle switch to turn on/off. Without the relay, you would need a much larger switch.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Lake Dallas,Tx
4 terminals,sounds like a single pole singe throw.Simple relay. You have the leaving side of the switch going to the + side of the coil ont the relay right?Then the negative side of the coil on the relay to ground?Then have 12vdc though the fuse directly from the battery to one side of the contact? Then the other terminal to the locker right? When you flip your switch you sould hear the relay click.Then the locker click about the same time
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 328
Likes: 0
From: wrightwood,ca
You can test your locker this way.
put the positve to the positve pole to the battery, use an inline fuse, so that nothing blow and connec the negative to the battery. If you hear a clunk, that is the solonoid clicing and you should be locked, it's not very loud, you may have to be near the diff to hear it.
I hope you get it soon, this really sucks to have the locker in etc and not be able to activate it.
put the positve to the positve pole to the battery, use an inline fuse, so that nothing blow and connec the negative to the battery. If you hear a clunk, that is the solonoid clicing and you should be locked, it's not very loud, you may have to be near the diff to hear it.
I hope you get it soon, this really sucks to have the locker in etc and not be able to activate it.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
You can test your locker this way.
put the positve to the positve pole to the battery, use an inline fuse, so that nothing blow and connec the negative to the battery. If you hear a clunk, that is the solonoid clicing and you should be locked, it's not very loud, you may have to be near the diff to hear it.
I hope you get it soon, this really sucks to have the locker in etc and not be able to activate it.
put the positve to the positve pole to the battery, use an inline fuse, so that nothing blow and connec the negative to the battery. If you hear a clunk, that is the solonoid clicing and you should be locked, it's not very loud, you may have to be near the diff to hear it.
I hope you get it soon, this really sucks to have the locker in etc and not be able to activate it.
I'm sure the locker itself works and it is me who is just wiring it incorrectly.
Off hand, I don't know which is + or - for the relay, etc...since I do not have it with me.
JK Freak
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 505
Likes: 0
From: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
Hello,
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages. It's not loud and if the engine is on, you'll not likely be able to hear it. If you have a 12V light, temporarily wire it to the lower connector which is your indicator. When the locker engages it closes a switch. If you have a multimeter, wire it to the connector and hopefully it makes a sound in continuity mode.
PM me and maybe we can work through it on the phone.
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages. It's not loud and if the engine is on, you'll not likely be able to hear it. If you have a 12V light, temporarily wire it to the lower connector which is your indicator. When the locker engages it closes a switch. If you have a multimeter, wire it to the connector and hopefully it makes a sound in continuity mode.
PM me and maybe we can work through it on the phone.
JK Junkie
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,467
Likes: 1
From: 4 Corners
Hello,
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages.
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages.
If you decide to trash that $5 relay it would certainly simplify things for you.
I was by myself so I couldn't throw the switch and listen for the sound. That's why I jacked it up to see what was spinning and how. I've never worked with a 4 pole relay. I was talking as though it was a 5 pole so my advice may not be worth a crap. (Wouldn't be the first time.) If you do decide to scrap the relay, we'll get you up and running in no time.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Hello,
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages. It's not loud and if the engine is on, you'll not likely be able to hear it. If you have a 12V light, temporarily wire it to the lower connector which is your indicator. When the locker engages it closes a switch. If you have a multimeter, wire it to the connector and hopefully it makes a sound in continuity mode.
PM me and maybe we can work through it on the phone.
I put the D44 like you did a couple of months ago. I did not use a relay (though I am using a relay for the lights) as the locker only draws 3-4 amps, and like what has already been discussed, there's no need to complicate things with a relay.
I also wired in a small led to signal when it has locked, which is usually a few seconds after I flip the switch.
You will hear a audible click when the locker engages and disengages. It's not loud and if the engine is on, you'll not likely be able to hear it. If you have a 12V light, temporarily wire it to the lower connector which is your indicator. When the locker engages it closes a switch. If you have a multimeter, wire it to the connector and hopefully it makes a sound in continuity mode.
PM me and maybe we can work through it on the phone.
I've got a couple of other things to try. If it works, then I will leave the relay since I've dressed it all in already.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX
Okay let's trouble shoot. You really make me glad I didn't put in a relay.
1. Disconnect everything except #85 and #86. Now does #86 actually go from battery to 3a fuse to switch--- then from switch (other terminal) to relay? If not, then get that going.
2. Flip switch on and check with your ohm meter, test light whatever for a complete circuit between #30 and #87. Then flip switch off and make sure the circuit is open (no light or 1.0 resistance on meter.) If you have that then replace the 3a fuse in that circuit with a 20 amp or so and you should be good to go.
If not, write us back and we'll go deeper into some troubleshooting.
Oops just saw the last part of your post. It's the upper connection that actuates and the lower one with the longer wire on it that is the sensor.
1. Disconnect everything except #85 and #86. Now does #86 actually go from battery to 3a fuse to switch--- then from switch (other terminal) to relay? If not, then get that going.
2. Flip switch on and check with your ohm meter, test light whatever for a complete circuit between #30 and #87. Then flip switch off and make sure the circuit is open (no light or 1.0 resistance on meter.) If you have that then replace the 3a fuse in that circuit with a 20 amp or so and you should be good to go.
If not, write us back and we'll go deeper into some troubleshooting.
Oops just saw the last part of your post. It's the upper connection that actuates and the lower one with the longer wire on it that is the sensor.
Nope. Open in both directions. What it looks like we did was use the switch to close the circuit to see if the relay responded, correct? Does the relay not need power to do that. I don't think its mechanical, is it?