So far I'm pretty happy with my suspension and lift mods I've made on my JKU for my uses, where I've done the installs myself and learned a lot along the way along with the help from a lot of knowledgeable folks on this forum. Special shout out props to Karls10jk, TheDirtman, kjeeper10, sa29560, resharp001, Mr.T, 14Sport, jadmt, and jedg!!! You guys have all brought great information while cutting out the usual b.s. that often comes along with it.

One thing has me a puzzled and that's in the selection of limiting straps for my rig.

One of my original goals when putting my suspension mod plan together was to increase the amount of flex, to help keep those tires on the ground since it wasn't until my longer term plans to install either lockers or LSDs. Most likely going with LSDs front and rear eventually when the re-gear money train rolls in.

I opted to install front LCAs with flex joints, front sway bar quick discos and Fox shocks since they were suppose to be one of the longer shaft shocks with further extension, all to gain whatever minuscule extra flex I could. My current understanding is that with the sway bars disconnected, my current limiting factor in regards to the amount of flex the axle can droop will be the length of the extended shocks. Thus, the majority of the weight of the axle would be held up by one of the extended shocks which seems like a weak link in being able to hold up an axle without the shock pulling apart.

Is my current understanding of this correct or is there anything I'm overlooking such as it being the drive shaft?

Therefore with my current understanding, to prevent the shock from being over extended I would want to install some limiting straps so the straps would hold the weight of the axle before the shocks became fully extended. Also, I understand I will want to install some spring retainers to prevent the springs from falling out.

My current point of unknown is in selecting the proper length of limiting straps. It seems to me, that if I get something that is too short then that diminishes any benefits of installing the items I installed to gain additional flex and if I get one that is too long, then it isn't serving it's purpose in protecting the shocks from being over extended. So how would I go about determining what is the proper length of limit strap that I should get to be able to maintain the majority of flex, while at the same time ensuring my shocks are protected against over extension?

Also, I have never put my JK on an RTi ramp but I sure am curious to find out how much flex I actually have with my current setup. If I currently put it on an RTi ramp without having limiting straps, am I risking damaging my shocks or anything else?

TIA!!!

 

You are correct on limiting straps, they protect your shocks from over extension. You can also use them at the differential to limit driveline angles while still getting full extensions with one wheel drooped and one stuffed.

You will first figure out where you are going to mount the straps. You either find a bolt to use or add brackets to the frame and axle. Adding brackets is generally the easiest way to mount with the straps being out of the way. Once you figure out the mounting locations simply fully extend the droop of your suspension and record the distance between the mounting points. Subtract 1" per foot off that measurement and that is the length of strap to get. Summit racing has lots of different lengths to choose from at a good price. We take 1" per foot off due to stretch. This shorter length may also eliminate the need for coil retainers unless you are really coming off of them. In that case you may want to run a longer coil with a lower coil rate or one of the dual or triple rated springs on the market.

 

I used something like this on my old Dana 30.



I'm pretty sure this is what dirtman is talking about. You'll have some luck if you google "shock tabs"

 

You are *technically* correct about limiting straps but honestly they are not necassary on a JK unless you start getting into exotic long travel type set ups. The JK's suspension is designed to have the shocks as the limiting strap, and any good quaility shock should have no issues being used as intended with lift kit and big tires, even with heavy use. We never strap conventionally lifted JKs, and we build some stuff that gets wheeled hard!

It's your time and money, and while it isn't a bad idea, it's something that really won't make much difference to you. Depending on your kit, I would spend my money on some good shocks, or better yet save up for lockers or limited slips, that will get you further down the trail than the majority of this suspension witchcraft.

 

What makes the JK special that it does not need limiting straps to protect components? How is it designed to use the shocks as the limiting factor? Actually its the sway bar that limits travel on a stock JK.

 

There are also specific tabs and a clevis for limit straps to fine tune the set up. If you are running $30 shocks the straps may be overkill to protect them. Its when you get into the high dollar stuff when the straps become cheap insurance.

 

Tell me more about how my conventionally lifted jeep (coils, shocks, longer links) doesn't need limit straps yet I've had a shock gush oil after going with over-extending the shock.

Limit straps are cheap, AssVault ones are the cheapest and honestly it's one of those things that's been on my list for a while now. The spring retainers are a good idea but not always necessary because usually your shocks and (hopefully) limit straps will prevent you from getting to that point.

My current profile pic is with the sway bar disconnected up front, shocks disconnected, and I just kept on jacking it up. The sway bar links are your first pinch point, then shocks, then coils unseat, then you're looking at the front driveshaft getting into a bind. What's your ABS and brake line length look like? Those are also things that are cheap to replace but something that it's cheaper to protect than replace on the trail or side of the road.

This conversation will probably get me to look at straps again- I know I need them, it's just a matter of doing it. I'll probably put brackets on the inside of the framerail and run down to the axle/ shock mounts up front.

 

I'm with dirtman on this, I don't want my expensive shocks to bottom out, limit straps are good cheap insurance

 

When I look at limit straps, like mentioned it seemed like cheap insurance. I'm not overly concerned about having to pay to replace a shock, although I do have the Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks which aren't all that cheap. I'm more concerned with breaking something out on the trail unintentionally, that would put me in a bind to repair onsite, if a strap would help in preventing that scenario. I actually kind of envisioned myself doing a flex test on an RCi ramp, only to result in over extension and my shock gushing out while doing that.

In regards to taking the measurements that TheDirtman outlined in his response, is there a recommendation on the best way for me to take that kind of measurement? Disconnecting my sway bar links is obvious, but I'm kind of trying to figure out how I would do the rest in my driveway. My current thought would be to put a floor jack under one of the frame rails towards the front, and raise it up until I reach max axle droop.

The only mounting of the straps I looked at in the past was the TF limit strap kit that fastens one side of the strap to the frame rail and the other side to the spring bucket on the axle. So that's how I had originally envisioned how it is typically done but I'm definitely open to other solutions as well. If you've ever seen pics of my welding skills (or lack there of), then you would know it's probably a good idea for me to leave the welding alone, but I can get by in a pinch.

Here's the welding I did on the air hose hangers I fabbed using a flux welder. Oh yeah!!! Admire those welding splatter dots and curved lines and that was using Lincoln welding wire, which isn't supposed to splatter.

 

I agree with Dirtman and karls10jk on this. I burned through a couple of the RK RRD 2.0 shocks because I used them to limit down travel.

As Dirtman said, be sure to subtract the 1" PER FOOT from the length. You won't see that stretch when you move the axle into it's drooped position slowly, but you WILL see it when you're dynamically using the suspension.

I used weld-on tabs at the frame and then connected the strap to the same bolt that holds my lower shock in place.

I also use the adjust that Dirtman spoke about. This made getting the system 'tuned' a bit easier. I also periodically check the droop when doing maintenance and figured the adjuster could be used to mitigate any long term stretch of the strap (though I haven't seen that so far).