Educate me on Flex and limit strap selection
JK Jedi
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,222
Likes: 376
From: Southwest Reno, NV
I presume you're talking about something along the lines of this for as an upper mounting point -
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
I presume you're talking about something along the lines of this for as an upper mounting point -
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
Unfortunately I'm deployed and the rig is now in storage. Won't be back for a few more months.
General description is that I have the clevis tab mounted to the outside of the frame with the clevis such that it doesn't protrude below the frame. The bottom of the strap is mounted to the bottom shock mount.
General description is that I have the clevis tab mounted to the outside of the frame with the clevis such that it doesn't protrude below the frame. The bottom of the strap is mounted to the bottom shock mount.
JK Freak
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 782
Likes: 3
From: Pittsburgh, Pa
I went with a different approach than may be considered conventional. My spring/shock setup was chosen so that when my shock was at full extension, the spring is still lightly resting in the seats but I can reach in and wiggle the coils.
The shock at this point is not even holding the weight of the axle with the stock arms and bushings. Consider my front ProRock 44U, it shipped on a pallet at 180 lbs complete. Now consider that your control arms are torqued at resting ride height, and if you leave them tight, and try to remove your springs.. you can not. The bushings resist axle drop the further the axle travels. The bushings at this point are subtracting axle weight seen at the shock, the further the axle drop, the more the bushing binds the more it "subtracts" weight.
So by ensuring that the shock extended length is such that the coil has essentially been rendered "dead", the shock will never see much load at full extent. Considering that the axle itself is only 170 or so pounds, and your talking about half of the axle weight and then take away the weight that is being restricted by bushing resistance... the shock is not seeing much load at all.
Where I could see limit straps being more necessary would be a person running a control arm that has total freedom of motion within the limits of travel, such as a hiem joint/rod end style. And then to step it up again would a person who does high speed antics where the jeep would be nearly... or actually jumping a bit like Dirtmans photo going down a dune with all 4 tires airborn (my PC backwall picture!). With the free moving ends, your axle weight is hanging from something, be it shocks or sway bar links. Jumping means the axle is traveling fast and slamming down to be captured by the shock or sway bar links.
Rock crawling at 1-2 miles per hour like many of us do ensures that the axle motion is slow and controlled and the axle is lightly sat down on the shock.
If your springs are still bearing down on the shock at full extent, add limit straps or change your setup.
If your running free motion bearing ends, add limit straps or take your chances.
If your in the mid-west and running dunes and the like at high speeds and maybe getting some air time, add limit straps.
If your using a rubber resistance style bushing similar to the OEM (and now in some aftermarket adjustable arms) you can set up your suspension so that the level of "need" for limit straps is very very low. I don't feel that limit straps are a one size fits all requirement, there is a time and place for sure. But for many modestly modified and driven Jeeps it is just not something of high priority.
The shock at this point is not even holding the weight of the axle with the stock arms and bushings. Consider my front ProRock 44U, it shipped on a pallet at 180 lbs complete. Now consider that your control arms are torqued at resting ride height, and if you leave them tight, and try to remove your springs.. you can not. The bushings resist axle drop the further the axle travels. The bushings at this point are subtracting axle weight seen at the shock, the further the axle drop, the more the bushing binds the more it "subtracts" weight.
So by ensuring that the shock extended length is such that the coil has essentially been rendered "dead", the shock will never see much load at full extent. Considering that the axle itself is only 170 or so pounds, and your talking about half of the axle weight and then take away the weight that is being restricted by bushing resistance... the shock is not seeing much load at all.
Where I could see limit straps being more necessary would be a person running a control arm that has total freedom of motion within the limits of travel, such as a hiem joint/rod end style. And then to step it up again would a person who does high speed antics where the jeep would be nearly... or actually jumping a bit like Dirtmans photo going down a dune with all 4 tires airborn (my PC backwall picture!). With the free moving ends, your axle weight is hanging from something, be it shocks or sway bar links. Jumping means the axle is traveling fast and slamming down to be captured by the shock or sway bar links.
Rock crawling at 1-2 miles per hour like many of us do ensures that the axle motion is slow and controlled and the axle is lightly sat down on the shock.
If your springs are still bearing down on the shock at full extent, add limit straps or change your setup.
If your running free motion bearing ends, add limit straps or take your chances.
If your in the mid-west and running dunes and the like at high speeds and maybe getting some air time, add limit straps.
If your using a rubber resistance style bushing similar to the OEM (and now in some aftermarket adjustable arms) you can set up your suspension so that the level of "need" for limit straps is very very low. I don't feel that limit straps are a one size fits all requirement, there is a time and place for sure. But for many modestly modified and driven Jeeps it is just not something of high priority.
Thread Starter
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 221
From: SE Michigan
I presume you're talking about something along the lines of this for as an upper mounting point -
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
Attachment 672114
In that picture, the tab portion gets welded to the frame, and then you can adjust the clevis longer or shorter if need be, allowing you to dial in the length. That definitely looks like the way to go.
JK Jedi
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,363
Likes: 2,089
From: Willow Park, TX
Thread Starter
JK Jedi
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 221
From: SE Michigan
It will probably take me awhile to get out there to take the measurements anyhow. I have to imagine you're already half way done welding in tabs by now and I'm the one who started the discussion. 
I still have to start my shopping comparisons, but I do like Dirtman's suggestion of getting them through summit if they have different length options. I like the TF straps in regards to installation (ie no welding), but I keep scratching my head and wondering, they only sell one length and "how the hell do they know what length I need before I have even taken my measurements?"
JK Junkie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,068
Likes: 116
From: Bunnlevel, NC
This is the stuff I used. Probably other places are cheaper, but they had everything so I just bought from one source.
Clevis Mount -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...VG0aAvG48P8HAQ
Straps -
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...iting%20Straps
Clevis -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...-kit/overview/
Clevis Mount -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...VG0aAvG48P8HAQ
Straps -
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...iting%20Straps
Clevis -
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...-kit/overview/