Electric Anti-Rust Gismo
01-16-2007, 05:35 PM
#21
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NEW INFORMATION PROVIDED AT PAGE 2 IN THIS POST... SEE INSTALL PICS...
HEy folks:
Given the harsh winter climate we have in this corner of the planet and the salt mines that are spread over our highways, I decided to invest in this product, available at Canadian Tire (in Canada, d-oh), or Crappy Tire as we affectionatley call them (but a really cool store by canadian standards anyway), and were on sale last week at $100 off, or $299 cdn, for the suv model gizmo .
It's called "CounterAct" and the product can be viewed at www.counteractrust.com
If anyone has tried this product, feel free to join the conversation, but as I see it, it's a dirt cheap investment if this works only half as good as they claim.
Essentially, the product uses 12V DC and converts it to high V, low amperage power that is sent via wires and 2 contacts, one in front, other in back (suv model) . The theory is that the current significantly prevents the oxidation process, ie oxygen contacting with iron. The pictures even show a significant reduction in rusting in areas like brake drums or rotors... places no amount of undercoating will ever / could ever be used.
Just looking to see if there is any experience out there with this product.
If there is interest, I will take pictures and post my attempt at the installation process...
Cheers!
Cheers!
HEy folks:
Given the harsh winter climate we have in this corner of the planet and the salt mines that are spread over our highways, I decided to invest in this product, available at Canadian Tire (in Canada, d-oh), or Crappy Tire as we affectionatley call them (but a really cool store by canadian standards anyway), and were on sale last week at $100 off, or $299 cdn, for the suv model gizmo .
It's called "CounterAct" and the product can be viewed at www.counteractrust.com
If anyone has tried this product, feel free to join the conversation, but as I see it, it's a dirt cheap investment if this works only half as good as they claim.
Essentially, the product uses 12V DC and converts it to high V, low amperage power that is sent via wires and 2 contacts, one in front, other in back (suv model) . The theory is that the current significantly prevents the oxidation process, ie oxygen contacting with iron. The pictures even show a significant reduction in rusting in areas like brake drums or rotors... places no amount of undercoating will ever / could ever be used.
Just looking to see if there is any experience out there with this product.
If there is interest, I will take pictures and post my attempt at the installation process...
Cheers!
Cheers!
01-17-2007, 03:41 PM
#22
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LOL!! Well, if you can believe it, I talked to Machster50 and I believe him when he says he is not a manufacturer or vendor of this product. In the end, he's just one hell of an informed customer 
Need I say, this thread has been re-opened.
Need I say, this thread has been re-opened.
01-17-2007, 03:59 PM
#23
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but somehow the pics seem to have disappeared...? can you fix? tks.
01-17-2007, 04:03 PM
#24
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First let me say I am a marine electrician for the better part of 25 years and marine corrosion and prevention is a big part of my activities.
The first time I heard about a unit like this was here and I am not sure, but I will keep an open mind.
You cannot compare these two systems as they do two different thing, one prevents rust in a more or less dry environment while the other prevents corrosion in a submerged environment.
I can’t speak for the first, but I know the second. A boat in the water acts like a battery, the boat is the anode and cathode. By them self, nothing happens, but when you submerge them in water, that’s when the battery effect starts. Saltwater is a fantastic conductor, fresh water has very little conductivity. Of the ladder of nobility, where gold is on the top and zinc and magnesium on the bottom, zinc is used as the sacrificial anode in this “battery”. These anodes are designed to prevent incidental corrosion, not rust, in the marine environment.
This brings me to the reason for this longwinded explanation, Rob, your statement is not quite right, boats shipped to lake, freshwater, regions do not have or need zincs. I do not doubt that you have what you described, but the reason for this corrosion is a severe electrical problem on your boat.
If my boat would be in this condition, I would go, no run, to a qualified marine electrician, not a car or household electrician, but a marine electrician that is trained in the marine environment. Also, if you have 110v service on board, I would not physically touch your boat unless it is unplugged.
I did not mean to hijack the thread, but I think it is important to know why things happen.
Just my 2 ct worth.
The first time I heard about a unit like this was here and I am not sure, but I will keep an open mind.
You cannot compare these two systems as they do two different thing, one prevents rust in a more or less dry environment while the other prevents corrosion in a submerged environment.
I can’t speak for the first, but I know the second. A boat in the water acts like a battery, the boat is the anode and cathode. By them self, nothing happens, but when you submerge them in water, that’s when the battery effect starts. Saltwater is a fantastic conductor, fresh water has very little conductivity. Of the ladder of nobility, where gold is on the top and zinc and magnesium on the bottom, zinc is used as the sacrificial anode in this “battery”. These anodes are designed to prevent incidental corrosion, not rust, in the marine environment.
This brings me to the reason for this longwinded explanation, Rob, your statement is not quite right, boats shipped to lake, freshwater, regions do not have or need zincs. I do not doubt that you have what you described, but the reason for this corrosion is a severe electrical problem on your boat.
If my boat would be in this condition, I would go, no run, to a qualified marine electrician, not a car or household electrician, but a marine electrician that is trained in the marine environment. Also, if you have 110v service on board, I would not physically touch your boat unless it is unplugged.
I did not mean to hijack the thread, but I think it is important to know why things happen.
Just my 2 ct worth.
01-17-2007, 04:11 PM
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01-18-2007, 04:11 AM
#29
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These are not dry environments. If they where than nothing would work. these systems work off of moisture in the ground carring the current through the pipe and then throught the ground to anodes placed away from the pipe or bridge. Moisture carries the current. No moisture no current flow. Coatings are the best way to halt corrosion. If the metal never see's the light of day than it will not corrode.
01-18-2007, 04:14 AM
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