I have a 2015 JK Wrangler Sport. When I bought it I did not have the "wheeling" bug. Now I do. I have been upgrading my JK (35" tires, 2.5" lift, 4:88 gearing, rear diff locker, Dana 44 front axle with locker). The latest addition is the electronic swaybar disconnect. I bought the Mopar unit that is advertised as the same one the is on the Rubicon (yes, I probably should bought a Rubi in the first place). I put the cart before the horse and did not determine all of the pieces involved. So, I installed the electronic swaybar disconnect. I followed all of the installation instructions including the wiring and then figured out that my 7 gang switch pod was not compatible. So, I bought the 5 gang switch pod, pulled the circuit board out of it, and took the Swaybar button also and installed both in my existing 7 gang switch pod. The ESC Off and flashers were the only two switches on my original 7 gang unit, and now they work on the reconfigured 7 gang switch pod. Hence, I figured that the Swaybar switch was receiving power. I took my JK to he local Jeep dealer so that they could program the swaybar to the VIN. I thought that would do the trick and get the electronic swaybar disconnect working...wrong. I pulled the electrical connection off the swaybar kit and read 12VDC. I happened to find a post online that said a fellow Jeeper had to use the AEV Procal module to turn on the swaybar system. I purchased and used the Procal module to "turn on" the electronic swaybar disconnect, heard the two horn beeps to indicate successful programming, but no luck. The swaybar did not disconnect when the switch as selected. Oh by the way, I have never seen the "Swaybar" light on the dash so I am not sure if it is there. So here I am looking for some troubleshooting help on how to get my electronic swaybar disconnect working. Thank you in advance!

 

The light is there, all of the lights are there and you should be able to do a dash diagnostic to confirm everything lights up. On to the sway bar- a better choice would have been the JKS or other brands of sway bar disconnects as they can be used any time. Are you in 4low when you're trying to hit your sway bar button? The Rubi system only allows disconnecting in 4low.

 

I have a Rubicon Electronic Sway Bar on my JKU Sport and use the EVO NoLimits manual disconnect. Works great and do not have to be in 4 lo. Just another option.

R/
Will

 

How do I do a dash diagnostic?
Yes, I am in 4Lo when hitting the swaybar button.
Thank you!

 

Mine works in 4 high as well. The light will flash if it's in 2WD but it won't disconnect. I'm planning on running the factory unit until it gives up, then it's getting a Currie Anti-Rock to match the rear.

It sounds as though the ECM isn't seeing it if you're getting no acknowledgment from the dash lights. The stealer is a good option, but you have to find someone who knows what they're doing, which can be tough.
I went though it years ago when I added fog lights to a Chevy truck. Had to take it to the dealer to get that circuit activated, even with a factory switch tied into the factory harness. They looked at me like I was from another planet. Luckily I had printed out all the instructions on how to get the option turned on in the computer. I should have charged them.

 

Please tell me that you didn't purchase that brand new for $1000+

 

Hahah right? Disconnects are $150...just a matter of time before the motor in that electric swaybar fries like the rest of them eventually do.

 

Anti-Rock's are around $600 and you never have to mess with them again.

 

That is def what I would have done.

 

I have been riding on the street and on trails for a long time with - out a front sway bar. It's really not needed unless you are a speed demon flying around corners. Saves weight on the front also.