Engine Pre-start Lubers
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Eastern Washington
It's not really a can. It's the armature and motor body of a 12v electric pump, about 3.5 inches in diameter and 5 inches tall. The brass pump adds another 1.25 inches and contains two helical cut gears.
It takes about 5-10 seconds of running to ensure the oil filter and oil galleys are full. As back pressure builds, you hear the pitch of the pump's running sound change. Then switch the pump off and start the engine with no ticking, tapping, or clattering!
I bought the pump on EBay for about $150. It's very stout and normally used in marine applications. I made the oil pickup from a custom tee and Fumoto valve, added an inline check valve after the pump, plumbed it with Earl's lines and fittings, and hooked it up to an oil filter sandwich from Glow Gauges. Hardest part was designing a stainless steel mounting bracket which spans from two of the engine mount bolts to three 6mm oil pan studs (custom). But it is VERY SOLID and everything can be removed in 30 minutes to return to stock, right down to the oil pan screws and drain bolt.
Besides the pump, the filter sandwich was about $30, the plumbing about $100, and the custom bracket mount ended up at about $90 ( it took two tries for a local shop to fabricate it correctly).
The Fumoto valve and extension added a bit more cost, but the biggest challenge and fun was designing and building custom pieces.
It takes about 5-10 seconds of running to ensure the oil filter and oil galleys are full. As back pressure builds, you hear the pitch of the pump's running sound change. Then switch the pump off and start the engine with no ticking, tapping, or clattering!
I bought the pump on EBay for about $150. It's very stout and normally used in marine applications. I made the oil pickup from a custom tee and Fumoto valve, added an inline check valve after the pump, plumbed it with Earl's lines and fittings, and hooked it up to an oil filter sandwich from Glow Gauges. Hardest part was designing a stainless steel mounting bracket which spans from two of the engine mount bolts to three 6mm oil pan studs (custom). But it is VERY SOLID and everything can be removed in 30 minutes to return to stock, right down to the oil pan screws and drain bolt.
Besides the pump, the filter sandwich was about $30, the plumbing about $100, and the custom bracket mount ended up at about $90 ( it took two tries for a local shop to fabricate it correctly).
The Fumoto valve and extension added a bit more cost, but the biggest challenge and fun was designing and building custom pieces.
JK Newbie
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Which port to use on oil sandwich plate
So I’m not sure which side of the sandwich plate adapter to tie the line for the engine pre-lube oiler . Is it the In or Out port I don’t want to freeze up my internal oil pump by using the wrong port
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 2,726
Likes: 509
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
I really cannot think of a bigger waste of money. The quote below is right on where the load is asked to go full power right at start up. And is that a Pentastar in the picture?
"Pre-lube pumps are used on any engine where you expect to start it and run it quickly up to operating speed, such as a ship's service or emergency generator"
An alternative much more simple and cost effective is to install or use the block heater and keep the engine warm and just plug in - we do up here in winter. Or use one of the best oils out there - Amsoil and forget the other stuff. Also please consider that you might make the engine last long enough to see the last piece of body rust away. IE how long you keeping the Jeep for? Unless it is a hobby then I believe it is no point to add an oil primer on a stone cold engine as the service quoted above always sees a block heater to keep the engine warm as well.
"Pre-lube pumps are used on any engine where you expect to start it and run it quickly up to operating speed, such as a ship's service or emergency generator"
An alternative much more simple and cost effective is to install or use the block heater and keep the engine warm and just plug in - we do up here in winter. Or use one of the best oils out there - Amsoil and forget the other stuff. Also please consider that you might make the engine last long enough to see the last piece of body rust away. IE how long you keeping the Jeep for? Unless it is a hobby then I believe it is no point to add an oil primer on a stone cold engine as the service quoted above always sees a block heater to keep the engine warm as well.
