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Evap Can complete removal?

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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 10:24 AM
  #11  
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My humble thoughts on the matter are: Why do you wanna remove it at all? Guess they didn't put it there for no actual reason, and since you can easily relocate it with i.e. Woods kit (as I have), or protect it with some armour/skid plate, I just see no reason for it. Just my 5 cents.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Zylfrax791
Also copied and pasted this from a Taco website:

"The charcoal canister holds the gas tank vacuum/pressure to prevent the tank from collapsing in on its self. The gases in the tank expand and contract as the tempature decreases and increases. the reason it gets hooked to the manifold is for start ups. when you crank the motor it releases those fumes in the canister into the intake and helps for easier start ups. the only problem i see putting a breather filter on the end on the line from the tank is moisture. with the tank being cool and the engine bay being warm, wont it create moisture in the line taht might get into your fuel."

Maybe its a good idea to leave it on...
Who ever wrote that on the TACO forums has more BULLSH!$ then the state of Texas.

A function of the new EVAP system is testing fuel system integrity. In older systems, if the gas cap were left off the vehicle could be driven around all day before the driver realized it, allowing hydrocarbons to escape the system through the uncapped filler neck.
To address this problem, manufacturers install fuel tank pressure sensors. These sensors will allow the PCM to apply a vacuum to the fuel tank to see if it is capable of maintaining a system vacuum. If the system is unable to maintain a vacuum, it has the potential to emit HC into the atmosphere, and it will illuminate an indicator lamp in the driver’s information center. This light will be the gasCAP light.
The pressure sensors are commonly supplied with a 5-volt reference voltage and will usually read between 1.3-1.7 volts at atmospheric pressure. In the newest Onboard Diagnostic System Generation 2 (OBD II) systems, the PCM will perform a system integrity test during the normal operation of the vehicle. If the system pressure leak rate exceeds a given value, the system will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the driver’s information center. Once the problem has been addressed and corrected, the MIL will be turned off by the PCM. In most cases a failed EVAP system test will illuminate the MIL as well as trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
During the time of canister purge, the system draws a vacuum through the carbon canister and allows fresh air to enter it. The purpose of allowing fresh air into the carbon canister is to oxygenate the stored hydrocarbons before they enter the engine. The mixture of HC and air being purged from the carbon canister is monitored closely by the PCM to assure that the lowest possible effect on vehicle tailpipe emissions is maintained.
So you see, if you remove the canister your going to get a constant gasCAP light and throw a code for loss of vacuum. You could use a resistor to match that of the system for the wires entering the canister. That will fix one problem, but then the system will also detect a vacuum leak. This will need to be fixed by having a CHECK valve installed to let air excape but also let air into the system. These can be found at auto parts stores.

GOOD LUCK, hope you understood what I said.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 10:43 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Davidengbe
My humble thoughts on the matter are: Why do you wanna remove it at all? Guess they didn't put it there for no actual reason, and since you can easily relocate it with i.e. Woods kit (as I have), or protect it with some armour/skid plate, I just see no reason for it. Just my 5 cents.
You didnt read all the posts did you? He has one already. He wants to get rid of the Woods too!
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 10:48 AM
  #14  
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Yes I did (almost), but his first question was if anyone had removed it entirely... but you're right, I didn't follow his reply about the Wood kit. Well, doesn't harm to push a bit for Woods, excellent products!
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 11:08 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Davidengbe
Yes I did (almost), but his first question was if anyone had removed it entirely... but you're right, I didn't follow his reply about the Wood kit. Well, doesn't harm to push a bit for Woods, excellent products!
LOL, yeah I have woods evap and SS. Great stuff!
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 05:56 PM
  #16  
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Yeah, no complaints about the woods Kit. Great product at bargain prices. But it interferes with the lfit I want. So my options are to move it back to the original location or remove it. I would prefer removing it, but since I barely understood what Joiletkilo said, it looks like I'll have to move it back. I know the parts are cheap, but I was exploring options. Thanks to all.
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 06:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by JulietKilo
Who ever wrote that on the TACO forums has more BULLSH!$ then the state of Texas.

A function of the new EVAP system is testing fuel system integrity. In older systems, if the gas cap were left off the vehicle could be driven around all day before the driver realized it, allowing hydrocarbons to escape the system through the uncapped filler neck.
To address this problem, manufacturers install fuel tank pressure sensors. These sensors will allow the PCM to apply a vacuum to the fuel tank to see if it is capable of maintaining a system vacuum. If the system is unable to maintain a vacuum, it has the potential to emit HC into the atmosphere, and it will illuminate an indicator lamp in the driver’s information center. This light will be the gasCAP light.
The pressure sensors are commonly supplied with a 5-volt reference voltage and will usually read between 1.3-1.7 volts at atmospheric pressure. In the newest Onboard Diagnostic System Generation 2 (OBD II) systems, the PCM will perform a system integrity test during the normal operation of the vehicle. If the system pressure leak rate exceeds a given value, the system will illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the driver’s information center. Once the problem has been addressed and corrected, the MIL will be turned off by the PCM. In most cases a failed EVAP system test will illuminate the MIL as well as trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC).
During the time of canister purge, the system draws a vacuum through the carbon canister and allows fresh air to enter it. The purpose of allowing fresh air into the carbon canister is to oxygenate the stored hydrocarbons before they enter the engine. The mixture of HC and air being purged from the carbon canister is monitored closely by the PCM to assure that the lowest possible effect on vehicle tailpipe emissions is maintained.
So you see, if you remove the canister your going to get a constant gasCAP light and throw a code for loss of vacuum. You could use a resistor to match that of the system for the wires entering the canister. That will fix one problem, but then the system will also detect a vacuum leak. This will need to be fixed by having a CHECK valve installed to let air excape but also let air into the system. These can be found at auto parts stores.

GOOD LUCK, hope you understood what I said.
Good stuff to know. Personally, I have no interest disabling it because it does serve a purpose. When the time comes I'll just put a skidplate over it. Just out of curiosity, I understand the part about plugging off the vacuum line but perhaps you could explain a little more about how you might install a resistor to the plug and what exactly you would use?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 06:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Zylfrax791
Good stuff to know. Personally, I have no interest disabling it because it does serve a purpose. When the time comes I'll just put a skidplate over it. Just out of curiosity, I understand the part about plugging off the vacuum line but perhaps you could explain a little more about how you might install a resistor to the plug and what exactly you would use?
Measure the operational resistance at the sensor with a multi meter with the plug removed so the circuit from the computer doesnt interfere with the measurement. What ever the resistance is... that is the value of the resistor you will buy. Then just solder that particular value resistor in the place of the plug. Resistors dont have polarity so just hook one end to one wire and the other end to the other wire. Solder and heat shrink to be water tight. A resistor with a 1/2 watt value will suffice.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 08:32 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Phishjeep
Yeah, no complaints about the woods Kit. Great product at bargain prices. But it interferes with the lfit I want. So my options are to move it back to the original location or remove it. I would prefer removing it, but since I barely understood what Joiletkilo said, it looks like I'll have to move it back. I know the parts are cheap, but I was exploring options. Thanks to all.
i'll have to get back to you in a week or two about this, but a guy that owns a shop near me told me that he has a way to eliminate it, without throwing any codes.
i'll have to find out what he did, and try it out to see if it really works.
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
The computer would know it is not working. It tests it once in a while. It would throw a light. Hell, it knows when you don't install the gas cap correctly!
thats why the new jk's wheel so good , its the computer , no wait, i could be wrong
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