MAG00

Okay. So after going over all this between myself and my friend who is a certified mechanic along with calls to RK and another 4x4 mechanic in town, we've come up with the following:

- Appears that my track bar and ball joints seem to be okay.

- Did find that my drag link end (at knuckle) needs replaced. We could feel a clunking in the drag link when doing the wheel turn back and forth and it was more defined at the knuckle. We could also see the link moving up and down. So we are going to go ahead and get it replaced once the part comes in.

- Also, I went ahead and installed the northridge4x4 bolt kit as well and the track bars took both 9/16 bolts and seemed to be a tighter fit. Factory bolt and the NR supplied 14mm bolts had a lot more play in them.

- Went ahead and did an alignment to make sure everything was okay and had to adjust the tow just a tiny bit and made sure the wheels were balanced.

Hopefully, after all this we've got it taken care of. I really hope so because I'm about to pull the trigger on some new tires. I'm currently debating on what tires (35s) to go with and I really like the Nitto Trail Grapplers but their weight is my only concern. That's part of the reason for asking about the HD ball joints.

MAG00

Well crap! Mechanic friend just called me and said he got the drag link end at the knuckle end put in, checked to make sure everything was tight/torqued and went to drive it. There is a dip/bump in the road right down the street from his shop that you can get up to speed 60-65mph. Hit the bump and it happened again.

He's gonna get back under there, disconnect the steering stabilizer and do the wheel turn back and forth procedure and see what he can find.

If ball joints and tie rod ends are okay and he said he could not see any rounding out/oval in the track bar bolt holes, any other ideas?

ShakyJake

You sure your trackbar is ok? How did they determine this? Worn ends will give you what you describe. Something doesn't make sense.

MAG00

I agree. Something doesn't make sense. I am going to get with him and try to go over all of it in person with him and see what we come up with.

planman

In the last 4 years, with my write-up thread logging as many as 92,000 views on some forums, I haven't had one person who thoroughly performed the written inspection checklist and didn't find all the sources of their Death Wobble.

MAG00

Yea, I gave the guy a copy of your checklist and sent him the links to your videos as well. He said he checked the ball joints by lifting up the jeep slightly and he used a pry bar to check them. He said he didn't see any play in them. We did do the steering wheel side to side and felt a clunking, which we found that the drag link end at the knuckle needed replaced. He said that he did not notice the track bar holes to be wallowed out any. He also said he didn't see any play in the tie rod ends besides the normal rotation movement of the tie rod. So we replaced the drag link end, installed the northridge4x4 bolt upgrade, rotated the tires (it was time for it) and checked their balance. Went out and drove it and it happened again.

So, we are going to go back thru it all and check it all again.

Side note: If we have to replace ball joints or tie rod ends or drag link ends (already replaced knuckle end drag link end), I don't like having to spend the money, but that's okay if it fixes it. My bigger concern is the track bar bolt holes (I they are rounded out/ovaled any). I know some have mentioned welding HD washers in place, but I think I would rather have an aftermarket bolt in part if possible. I know synergy makes a front track bar frame brace (frame end of TB connection) that just beefs up the bracket. It doesn't relocate it. Pretty simple deal. However, I haven't found a similar product for the axle end. At that end, all I have found are relocation brackets which entails having to do other parts/mods as well.

FYI - my rig is a '13 JKU with a 2.5 RK max travel lift (includes lower control arms front & back, new front track bar, rear track bar bracket, all new shocks). All other front steering components are stock.

planman

An exhaust shop will weld washers over your bracket bolt holes for maybe 1 hour labor.

Synergy makes a bolt on frame side brace.

JKS and Synergy make weld-on axle side brackets and braces.

It isn't that hard to gusset the stock axle side bracket.

MAG00

Yea,I figured it wouldn't be much to weld the washer on. Just have to make sure they are strong enough washers, the right diameter and located right.

I saw Synergy's frame side brace. Looks good and simple enough.

I just looked up the JKS axle side brace and it looks like a good option.

We've just got to try and nail down what's wrong. Although, I'm tempted to go ahead and do these anyways. Would fix it if it is a problem and reinforce it anyways.

Gopjew

Planman - Since I did my lift a little over a year ago I have had what I would describe as a "Death Wobble Precursor" - as I went over a bump my steering wheel would go back and forth until the tires/steering calmed itself, then no problems.

Most recently, after hitting a bump at low speed I went into full Death Wobble.

I ordered the Northridge bolt pack (had to use the 14mm replacement bolts Northridge sent in my stock trackbar since the 9/16 would not fit), changed the control arm bolts and tightened everything after going through your check list.

However, same problem - I will hit a bump, get that same "Death Wobble Precursor) that will develop into full on Death Wobble.

Any thoughts?

Frustration has truly set in...Something had to loosen over time as a result of the "Precursor"...

Donttread

Could be a tire balancing problem. I've had it twice due to being out of balance and at low speeds.