Hey hey everyone, I wanted to ask if this labor only quote sounds fair. I think it does but I wanted to check with you all too.

Here's the work I had quoted:

• Transmission pulled and 1st Gear & 1st/2nd Syncronizer replaced (yes I've been needing to do this for years, I talked about it HERE)

• Replace Clutch with a Centerforce Dual

• Replace Throwout bearing that just started squealing

For this I was quoted $800 in labor only. Does that sound about right for this?


Thank you in advance!

RT

 

Sounds pretty fair for a normal mechanic up here. I'm in Canada though.

 

Make sure they replace the pinion bearing, and ask if that includes labor for replacing flywheel if it inspects bad. Also suggest you have them replace engine main seal if you're past 100K miles or so. It'll probably go a couple more years, but you'll kick yourself in the butt when it does go and you pay this same labor all over again.

 

Thank you both, I had the same thought on the rear main and ordered one of those too. I'll be in Canada on business next week and I hope to come back to a Jeep that's ready to roll with no surprises. The price does include them having the flywheel resurfaced.

Do these JK flywheels goes bad a lot? I'm at 119K now.

Thanks again!

RT

 

Mine was quite fine at 95K when my TOB was shot. Even the clutch was in great shape, though I did put in a Centerforce. Didn't do main bearing seal, though, and at 130K or so it started leaking a little. I need to swap. At least no labor charge for me since I and a few friends will do that.

 

Ok, good to know. My clutch has been fine too, I'm having ALL of this done now because of the TOB squealing. I've searched around to determine if I needed to do anything else while the tranny is out. Will I need any other bearings or sealing other than the TOB and rear main?


Thank you,

RT

 

Change the pinion bearing, too. My fork was fine, but once opened they may see that yours is worn. And you might wish to put a new slave cylinder in. It's an easy DIY swap, as long as you don't have my misfortune: We discussed doing this, but since it's external and easy I said, "Nah. I'll take care of that when it breaks." Well, wouldn't you know that it broke in the middle of nowhere, Oregon? I barely made it to a Jeep dealer in Pendleton--literally the Jeep died 25 feet from the service check-in drive up in third gear, where it had been for the previous 30 miles as I carefully made my way in third gear to a place I'd never been, hoping to find it quickly before I inadvertently killed the engine. Yes, I could have changed it easily--if I had support to get the part, which was still a day away in Portland as it turned out. If you decide to not change it, it is easily changed in 30 minutes, with help from a friend to bleed the clutch afterward.

 

Oh, one last thought: Discuss with your mechanic if he plans to pull the exhaust line to do the job. The factory service manual doesn't call for that, but we found it a lot easier to get that out of the way. If he does plan to pull it, there are four bolts and special nuts that hold the exhaust line to the manifold. These will be severely rusted--it's the nature of the beast--and best replaced. While we had access to the parts distribution center that send parts out for most brands of vehicles to most dealers and mechanic shops in a multi-state area, they only had two of each in stock. They told us where we could find two more of each--at a couple local dealer parts stores. We ended up driving around town for a couple hours chasing down these minor bits and pieces. Your mechanic would probably appreciate having these on hand if he plans to pull the exhaust.

If you want to see what's involved in the job, here are some photos I shot ...

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=4c073f2212

 

Sounds pretty fair for a clutch and time to swap gears. I know it took me about 10 hours to swap out he clutch and TO bearing. Removing the exhaust makes removing the transmission easier and I also have a small main seal leak at 140,000 miles.