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Flighty Steering After Lift

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:28 PM
  #11  
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are your "tyres" bias ply? i don't know your tires and i used to have some trexxus 40's that were all over the road?
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Old May 1, 2008 | 01:14 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by bly109
The only thing that jumps out at me is the front relocation bracket. I know people have had problems with wandering and bumpsteer if they didnt add a drop pitman arm too. I think you should switch out the bracket for an adj trackbar in the front. Thats my best guess anyway.
The front trackbar relocation bracket is definitely suspect. When I had one on my JK, it was all over the road. Not only bump steer, but with any body roll, it would just about change lanes on it's own.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 01:52 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bly109
The only thing that jumps out at me is the front relocation bracket. I know people have had problems with wandering and bumpsteer if they didnt add a drop pitman arm too. I think you should switch out the bracket for an adj trackbar in the front. Thats my best guess anyway.
X2 ....Your track bar and steering drag link should be parrallel. If you drop one you should drop the other..

Also tire pressure is an issue. I am guessing you should be in the 26-28 psi range. Write on the ground with chalk and run it over. The chalk should go across the entire tread area.
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Old May 2, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by BLKRUBI
Nick,

FYI to those above....
1)A trackbar has no affect on wander, it locates/centers the axle under the JK.
2)A JK does NOT need an alignment after a lift. All you have to do is adjust the Drag links from pitman arm to the knuckle to straighten the steering wheel.
3)A missing wheel weight will NOT cause it to wander, that will cause vibrations.
I don't know about 3) but for sure I totally DISAGREE STRONGLY with you about adjustable track arms as stated in 1).

I KNOW YOU ARE WRONG because I had the same problem with a TF 3" BASIC lift.
I also run 35s just the same as him.
When I added the adjustable track arm the wandering went away completely.
Of course then after about 1000 miles I got Death Wobble but that was due to a BAD BUSHING in the track bar.
They swapped that out and no more Death Wobble and no more wandering.

I later added the adjustable lower controll arms due to the wheel would "stay over" when turned and not try to recenter itself.
This was due to the castor angle wasn't enough.
That was ok for me but my wife woulda just drove it into somebodies house. She woulda been waiting for it to "come back" like every other car she has ever driven.

So adjustable lowers got me 7.5° castor and now it "comes back" almost like a car.
It's still a truck tho with giant heavy tires so a beefier after market steering shock is imho recommended.

He said his castor is at 8° so I think he must have adjustable controll arms but in any case that should be fine.

Anyway good luck, have fun out there, and make it back.
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Old May 2, 2008 | 11:41 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by LinkSync
I don't know about 3) but for sure I totally DISAGREE STRONGLY with you about adjustable track arms as stated in 1).

I KNOW YOU ARE WRONG because I had the same problem with a TF 3" BASIC lift.
I also run 35s just the same as him.
When I added the adjustable track arm the wandering went away completely.
Of course then after about 1000 miles I got Death Wobble but that was due to a BAD BUSHING in the track bar.
They swapped that out and no more Death Wobble and no more wandering.

.
I also run 35's and I ran stock track bars a relocation brackets for a year with no issues. Yeah, I could have worded what I typed better though, what I mean is baring everything being tight, as it should be (loose items should be a given that it's going to be all over the place), then a stock track bar with a relocation bracket is not going to cause it to wander and an adjustable trackbar is not going to cause it to wander, However, as stated, you CAN have bump steer if your trackbar and drag link are not at the same angle, which can happen from using a relocation bracket and no pitman arm. Wider wheels(not necessarily tires) could also cause wander, but that's because they are following groves in the road and there is no fix for that. I experienced this when I went from a 8.5" wide to a 9" wheel while using the same tire. I developed a little more wander than I had with the narrower wheel because it flattened out the footprint of the tire. My wander issues, however, are because of my non adjustable arms.

Link, to me, it sounds like you might have had other issues. What trackbar were you using? Maybe there was something wrong with it or it was loose.

Originally Posted by LinkSync
I later added the adjustable lower controll arms due to the wheel would "stay over" when turned and not try to recenter itself.
This was due to the castor angle wasn't enough.
That was ok for me but my wife woulda just drove it into somebodies house. She woulda been waiting for it to "come back" like every other car she has ever driven.

So adjustable lowers got me 7.5° castor and now it "comes back" almost like a car.
It's still a truck tho with giant heavy tires so a beefier after market steering shock is imho recommended.

Exactly.


By the way Nick, like others have stated, I missed the 50psi part, but that is way to much air pressure. I run 28psi in my 35's and I only ran 25psi in the 38's on my CJ before. Drop that first.

Last edited by BLKRUBI; May 2, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
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Old May 2, 2008 | 11:42 AM
  #16  
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I had the same problem with a 2"'BB. Went over EVERYTHING.... took it to the dealer and the Stabilizer was shot after only about 4k miles. Fixed under warranty (obvioulsy), but since went to the SUPERLIFT set-up...problem fixed and very pleased!
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Old May 2, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #17  
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Air down some like I said before, 50psi is wayyyy too much. I would start there. Oh, remember I said it first I even beat Rubimon to it
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Old May 2, 2008 | 09:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Air down some like I said before, 50psi is wayyyy too much. I would start there. Oh, remember I said it first I even beat Rubimon to it
I'm getting old!
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Old May 2, 2008 | 09:34 PM
  #19  
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just got my ome lift and 35s on tonight - was real darty and rode rough. I read this , went and checked my tires and they must have had 100 psi in them - at least 30 seconds to get down to 40 psi. Im at 35 now and it is way better but still darts ever so slightly. Im gonna try 28psi tomorrow thanks for saving me alot of greif mkjeep
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Old May 2, 2008 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bigtreads
Im gonna try 28psi tomorrow thanks for saving me alot of greif mkjeep

And fillings! Try the chaulk test to be sure....You may even find that 26 is okay...Ultimately you want the pressure that will give you the best wear also. If the side treads aren't touching the ground, they will be as soon as you wear out the middle ones from too much pressure.
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