LinkSync

Hey gang,
I run 35" Pro Comp ATs at 40lbs in front and 37 in rear and 40 on the spare .
I'm in a 2dr btw.

All that due to 2 type chaulk tests.
One in the driveway and one on my street which is flat but I can go at speed over the chaulk.
I spent an entire morning doing all this after I got rid of my wandering wheel syndrom.

When I go wheel'n or even trail'n I "airdown" to 30 or 32 no more.
The reason is that the ATs work very well traction wise at that and don;t seem to mind in the dirt.
Having watched my friend rip and chunk his tires all to hell airing down to 15lbs I learned.
ATs are designed to have stiff sidewalls.
He rolled around on his squishy deflated (lost about 1 or 2 inches of clearance) under inflated tires right in front of me for ove 30 miles of trail'n and crawl'n.
I told him what I had seen and when we inspected his tires sure enuff there was entire CHUNKS missing from the outer tread at the corners.
Also he had what looked like cracks on 2 tires in the sidewalls.

He still did it for another 1,000 miles and has new tires now and no longer does that.
Tires are EXPENSIVE.

Anyway long story short (oh sure...) During all my tests I took the tires all the way up to 55lbs.
There was no wandering even at that.

Just food for thought.

A British Pound might be worth more than an American one tho....
LOL

I just hada...

mkjeep

This may be true with AT's, but I know for a fact that at that high of a pressure on the Cooper STT's that englishnick has it will not chalk test correctly on a 8in rim like he has, and they're darty and wander if your running on just the middle treads. I know, I have these particular tires. It is good to know on your end with the AT's and the brand so that not just everyone will airdown regardless of the tire. You kinda have to do your own experimenting to get it right for your rig.

blkpearl

i can't find the link, but you can get adjustable control arms will make a huge difference, or you can get some adjustable caster cam bolts like the tj, i have to find the thread, for the wright up.
you knock out some tabs on you lower control arm on the axle, and put the cam bolt in place. i have used them on a tj, but have not used them on a jk will keep looking for the thread it had alot of good info.

BLKRUBI

I've never used these so I don't know from personal experience, but I hear that you don't want to use these because they have a knack for coming loose.

Anhedrew

Hey English Nick -

How many miles have you put on your new tires? I ask because, when I first put my lift and 35" Cooper STT on, it took about 300 miles of driving before the tires "broke in" and began to track consistently straight.

blkpearl

the cam bolt acts just like any other control arm bolt with the exception that its center is offset, there are little tabs on the axle brackt that enable to adjust, i have used them on tjs, no problems. just gave me the ability to fine tune if needed. if you check the bolt like they should be after good wheeling trips that will eleminate the coming loose.

i check my rig out after every wheeling trip, learned the hardway in the past when i had a broken control bracket, let loose on the highway on the way home then bent some other stuff, oh well that part of the game if you play sometimes you have to pay.

MDPJeep

x2 - me too although with a TJ. the best single improvement, assuming all is aligned, is the adjustable trackbar for 2 reasons, 1) it's adjustable and 2) the bushings are poly and much firmer than rubber, which holds the axle and steering to a much tighter tolerance.

jmho