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Front dana 30 on 37s

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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
I think that would be for axel sleeves right? If I do those I will probably just do the nitro axle sleeves that don't require welding. Unless I find a reason not too. But I've heard they are pretty good. I Wanna stay away from as much welding as possible because that would require taking it to a shop and paying half a nut for install. Lol.
Just do the gussets. Buy them and I'm sure a local keeper can weld them for a 12 pack. Than rock it till you break it and use the insurance money to help purchase a D44.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 1B.A.JK
Just do the gussets. Buy them and I'm sure a local keeper can weld them for a 12 pack. Than rock it till you break it and use the insurance money to help purchase a D44.
That would be prefect. I rather that than sell a nut to pay for welding. I have done all my upgrades myself just to avoid that. I had shops try to charge me 1k for a lift install!

Lol not a bad idea regarding the insurance.

Last edited by jeep_pride; Mar 3, 2014 at 05:19 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:48 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by familytime
You could just buy the prorock housing and just put your guts in it.Been running our d30 for 2yrs now with 37's.We are locked,gusseted and sleeved no problems here
You can only do that with a Prorock if you already have a D44. Teraflex makes a D30 replacement housing. You still have the weak ring and pinion though.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
You can only do that with a Prorock if you already have a D44. Teraflex makes a D30 replacement housing. You still have the weak ring and pinion though.
Good point. If it's like you say, then I see no point in doing a housing change to a tera 30 if I'll still have similar internal problems and just go straight to a prorock 44? Or am I missing something here.

Last edited by jeep_pride; Mar 2, 2014 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:32 PM
  #45  
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dana 30 up front.
artec truss
gussets
heavy duty trackbar bracket
3.73 gears
no locker
stock shafts
synergy ball joints
hydro assist

stock rear

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRdjwQNoTfQ
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ludski
dana 30 up front.
artec truss
gussets
heavy duty trackbar bracket
3.73 gears
no locker
stock shafts
synergy ball joints
hydro assist

stock rear

YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRdjwQNoTfQ
Ludski on JKF!! Thats what im talkin about. See you when you get to Denver!
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 04:11 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
Anyone running stock gears with the Dana 30 on 37? I know about the loss in power and what not but I'm looking to see the changes of breaks. I heard you want to have lower gears to prevent breaks in that area? What's too low and what's too high? Is there a limit? Thanks. Sorry if I'm bugging you guys. I just would like to know
You can semi get away with that if you have a 2012+, manual trans, and 4.10's. Everything else, forget it.

Also, you can save some labor getting C's, truss, etc done if you do your gears at the same time since your axle will be dropped. That's what I'm doing in the next week or so.


**nice vid, Ludski

Last edited by n3tfury; Mar 3, 2014 at 04:28 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 05:34 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by ludski
dana 30 up front. artec truss gussets heavy duty trackbar bracket 3.73 gears no locker stock shafts synergy ball joints hydro assist stock rear YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRdjwQNoTfQ
Nice video! I plan to go to Moab some day. After seeing this I may go sooner instead of waking around for my rig to be completely built.

Btw why did you replace your ball joints because you were doing gusset(I've been told that the heat can ruin the stock ball joints while welding them on) I know it's suggested but is it necessary? Or did you replace because they were used up?


Originally Posted by n3tfury
You can semi get away with that if you have a 2012+, manual trans, and 4.10's. Everything else, forget it. Also, you can save some labor getting C's, truss, etc done if you do your gears at the same time since your axle will be dropped. That's what I'm doing in the next week or so. **nice vid, Ludski
Ok, recap...stock sport gears wouldn't work in your opinion? I have a 2013 sport. Gear could either be 3.73 or 3.21 not sure but give me a suggestion either way

From what I have planned I think I'll only do gussets at a shop.

Sleeves I think I'll do myself, the nitro ones that don't require welding.

Gears, I'll only do those if i have too.

Last edited by jeep_pride; Mar 3, 2014 at 05:38 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 06:27 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride
Nice video! I plan to go to Moab some day. After seeing this I may go sooner instead of waking around for my rig to be completely built.

Btw why did you replace your ball joints because you were doing gusset(I've been told that the heat can ruin the stock ball joints while welding them on) I know it's suggested but is it necessary? Or did you replace because they were used up?




Ok, recap...stock sport gears wouldn't work in your opinion? I have a 2013 sport. Gear could either be 3.73 or 3.21 not sure but give me a suggestion either way

From what I have planned I think I'll only do gussets at a shop.

Sleeves I think I'll do myself, the nitro ones that don't require welding.

Gears, I'll only do those if i have too.
If you're going to go to 37's, I would regear, imho. Another upgrade would be RCV. I've got an '08 with the D30 and it's on 37's, RCV, sleeved, 5.13 gears. Just food for thought. Good luck and let us know how it works for ya...

rock
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 06:32 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jeep_pride

Ok, recap...stock sport gears wouldn't work in your opinion? I have a 2013 sport. Gear could either be 3.73 or 3.21 not sure but give me a suggestion either way

From what I have planned I think I'll only do gussets at a shop.

Sleeves I think I'll do myself, the nitro ones that don't require welding.

Gears, I'll only do those if i have too.
Definitely regear.
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