so a buddy of mine and i instaled a right hand drive flip kit onto a left hand drive 2016 jku.
instaled the track bar relocation bracket , drilled out the hole so the unit drops in from top.
so i have twice while out driving, pulled over to manualy turn the adjustment link undernieth to straiten the steering wheel. and when testing it feels and looks centered.( 9 & 3).
ill be driving and somehow the wheel will shift to like (10 & 4), but while driving if i give it a little jerk to the left it kida centers, and once again if i happen to turn left slightly because of road, it shifts right again to( 10 & 4 ) .......what could be going on?

 

When you drilled the knuckle, did you insert a sleeve for the DL to sit in....to accommodate the taper in the stud?

 

Not really understanding what you're saying, this is when grammar is really helpful.

So when you're turning left, the wheel needs to be turned a little more? As in sometimes you're driving straight, and other times you need to correct the wheel a little in one direction? Help me understand what you're putting down. Are the two 15mm nuts on your drag link turn buckle tight? What other mods do you have? I'm assuming lifted with stock steering and control arms?

Back when I first got the JK, I needed to constantly make corrections to my steering to drive straight; You know how they exaggerate driving a car in movies? With constant left to right corrections? Yeah, that was me. I was also running a 2.5" coil lift, unbalanced MTR's, stock steering, and stock control arms. It drove like sh*t to say the least. After pushing my caster out to 4 degrees, new tie rod, and balanced tires...the steering really tightened up and I can actually drive with no hands on the wheel and the Jeep will stay in its lane (don't try this at home). My point is...I never needed a drag link flip, even now at 3-3.5" of lift height. What made you decide you needed a flip?

Also this^

 

yes, and you can tell me if this is strange my friend added w two washers at nut end to tighten , bet i can make it move by hand. almost like driveline flop.

 

i have had a a 3.5 inch rubicon express lift on for the last year and was going to add rock krawler sway bar disconects, i plan on going to 37s at some point and wanted to have a nice angle ... i curently have a 3.5 inch lift on 35 MTZ and 4.88 gears.

 

Flop in the drag link? That's normal, it's how the joints work to allow for the drag link to move under articulation. As long as there's no play in the joints, that's fine. Washers is suspect though, that shouldn't be necessary with a stock drag link...especially if you drilled out the knuckle and used the tapered insert. Have a pic by any chance? Or a video of the flop (hell, even the wheel) would be very helpful. Hard to diagnose things without visual reference sometimes.

 

i will try and post pictures but it wont be for a while.

 

 

Yeah that's the problem. Can you not crank that nut down more? Why were the washers used anyways? Which company's sleeve did you use in the knuckle? Are you sure it's for the factory taper?

 

Agree. Washers are preventing the stud of the joint from being pulled down and seated securely in to the sleeve, creating a bit of wiggle room it seems.