Front Driveshaft Install Question
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 194
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From: Boulder, CO
Front Driveshaft Install Question - SOLVED
I followed the excellent driveshaft install how-to on here and everything went pretty smoothly. I installed the driveshaft that comes with two new yokes for the 1310 U-joints.
I only ended up with one question. Once I have everything torqued down the rear yoke has about 1/8" of slip in it on the shaft coming out of the transfer case. Is this normal? I tightened the yoke bolt to 130 ft lbs per the instructions but it still can move a little back and forth.
- Steve
I only ended up with one question. Once I have everything torqued down the rear yoke has about 1/8" of slip in it on the shaft coming out of the transfer case. Is this normal? I tightened the yoke bolt to 130 ft lbs per the instructions but it still can move a little back and forth.
- Steve
Last edited by sdr0303; Apr 12, 2012 at 04:06 PM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,047
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
The pinion nut, which is what holds your yoke onto the rear of the driveshaft pumpkin should be 160ft/lbs. To the transfer case it should be 130ft/lbs of torque. Honestly, I do not know if you should have any room for play in the transfer case yoke or not. In theory, I would think that 1/8" of an inch is fine and not going to cause any problems; in addition, you want it to be able to spin and have the room to do so when engaged in 4wd to not have any rubbing with the transfer case. I think you're okay. Test drive it a few times. If I am wrong, someone will correct me.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 194
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From: Boulder, CO
I spoke to Northridge 4x4 this morning and their thought was that there should definitely not be any movement of that yoke. They think something is keeping the nut from seating all the way. Looks like I'm spending the day under the JK.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 194
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From: Boulder, CO
I spoke with Bill at Coast Driveline today (they made my shaft) and he was very helpful.
In a nutshell, the yoke that attaches to the double-cardan joint up near the transfer case is machined slightly smaller than it needs to be. When they bore out the splines on the inside the last 1/4" or so has almost no spline. This area is slightly smaller than it needs to be to guarantee there is no play. This smaller bore can however, not allow the yoke to completely engage on the shaft which results in the yoke allowing for in/out movement even when the nut has been completely tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Coast said they sometimes machine this area themselves in-house to remove the splines entirely in order to make the yoke seat completely. In my case, their advice was to put some silicon on the splines, and a little grease on this 1/4" section, then put the yoke on the shaft as far as it will go. After that, take an old socket or a piece of wood and hit it with a BFH pushing the yoke further on the shaft. Since there is no crush washer in the T-case there, you're just pushing against a bearing so you can't really do damage unless you hit it really hard. Also, it's really hard to get enough leverage with the BFH to do any real damage as well. I ended up getting about half of my 1/8" slack fixed this way, then I put the shaft nut on, and tightened it to about 150 ft lbs to remove the rest. According to Coast, that nut is capable of taking more torque than the 130 ft lbs (150-175) so it would be fine. Again, you're just pushing up against a bearing.
Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.
- Steve
In a nutshell, the yoke that attaches to the double-cardan joint up near the transfer case is machined slightly smaller than it needs to be. When they bore out the splines on the inside the last 1/4" or so has almost no spline. This area is slightly smaller than it needs to be to guarantee there is no play. This smaller bore can however, not allow the yoke to completely engage on the shaft which results in the yoke allowing for in/out movement even when the nut has been completely tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Coast said they sometimes machine this area themselves in-house to remove the splines entirely in order to make the yoke seat completely. In my case, their advice was to put some silicon on the splines, and a little grease on this 1/4" section, then put the yoke on the shaft as far as it will go. After that, take an old socket or a piece of wood and hit it with a BFH pushing the yoke further on the shaft. Since there is no crush washer in the T-case there, you're just pushing against a bearing so you can't really do damage unless you hit it really hard. Also, it's really hard to get enough leverage with the BFH to do any real damage as well. I ended up getting about half of my 1/8" slack fixed this way, then I put the shaft nut on, and tightened it to about 150 ft lbs to remove the rest. According to Coast, that nut is capable of taking more torque than the 130 ft lbs (150-175) so it would be fine. Again, you're just pushing up against a bearing.
Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.
- Steve
Last edited by sdr0303; Apr 12, 2012 at 08:28 PM.
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JK Super Freak
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,047
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From: Scottsdale, AZ
I spoke with Bill at Coast Driveline today (they made my shaft) and he was very helpful.
In a nutshell, the yoke that attaches to the double-cardan joint up near the transfer case is machined slightly smaller than it needs to be. When they bore out the splines on the inside the last 1/4" or so has almost no spline. This area is slightly smaller than it needs to be to guarantee there is no play. This smaller bore can however, not allow the yoke to completely engage on the shaft which results in the yoke allowing for in/out movement even when the nut has been completely tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Coast said they sometimes machine this area themselves in-house to remove the splines entirely in order to make the yoke seat completely. In my case, their advice was to put some silicon on the splines, and a little grease on this 1/4" section, then put the yoke on the shaft as far as it will go. After that, take an old socket or a piece of wood and hit it with a BFH pushing the yoke further on the shaft. Since there is no crush washer in the T-case there, you're just pushing against a bearing so you can't really do damage unless you hit it really hard. Also, it's really hard to get enough leverage with the BFH to do any real damage as well. I ended up getting about half of my 1/8" slack fixed this way, then I put the shaft nut on, and tightened it to about 150 ft lbs to remove the rest. According to Coast, that nut is capable of taking more torque than the 130 ft lbs (150-175) so it would be fine. Again, you're just pushing up against a bearing.
Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.
- Steve
In a nutshell, the yoke that attaches to the double-cardan joint up near the transfer case is machined slightly smaller than it needs to be. When they bore out the splines on the inside the last 1/4" or so has almost no spline. This area is slightly smaller than it needs to be to guarantee there is no play. This smaller bore can however, not allow the yoke to completely engage on the shaft which results in the yoke allowing for in/out movement even when the nut has been completely tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Coast said they sometimes machine this area themselves in-house to remove the splines entirely in order to make the yoke seat completely. In my case, their advice was to put some silicon on the splines, and a little grease on this 1/4" section, then put the yoke on the shaft as far as it will go. After that, take an old socket or a piece of wood and hit it with a BFH pushing the yoke further on the shaft. Since there is no crush washer in the T-case there, you're just pushing against a bearing so you can't really do damage unless you hit it really hard. Also, it's really hard to get enough leverage with the BFH to do any real damage as well. I ended up getting about half of my 1/8" slack fixed this way, then I put the shaft nut on, and tightened it to about 150 ft lbs to remove the rest. According to Coast, that nut is capable of taking more torque than the 130 ft lbs (150-175) so it would be fine. Again, you're just pushing up against a bearing.
Hope this helps anyone else with this problem.
- Steve
