@resharp001

Can you post a pic of how you routed your lines from the ram to the gear box? I’m thinking of running the fittings from the ram pointing to the passenger side and using clamps to secure the lines along the track bar up to the steering box. This should keep everything secure, looking nice, and with a little slack at both ends there will be room for suspension movement.

Good point, I’ll make a new post after each update.

Just a side note, there is room on the box for a 3/8”npt fitting but it’s not necessary. A 1/4”npt to a -6 fitting is actually better since the inner diameter of the fitting is the same throughout. A 3/8”npt to -6 will have a larger inner diameter at the 3/8 part and taper down at the -6 part. Using the 1/4” npt fitting will leave more material on the gear box and have a constant inner diameter for the fitting.

Second side note, I talked to the guys at WTO last week and they said that most of the gear boxes (even the 2012 and up models) have the Delphi box. They said very few are the China non rebuildable boxes. Taking a look at the box I removed, it’s mostly black but some rust spots, based off the common internet knowledge of black box being China and rusty box being Delphi, I have the Delphi box. I’ll eventually order a rebuild kit (when they’re available) and rebuild mine as a spare if I need it. Otherwise I’ll tap it and sell it as a good rebuilt box ready for hydro steering.

 

This surprises me cuz that's not my understanding at all from all those older JKers that came before us. I will tell you that the box I purchased from them very clearly had "delphi" stamped on the side in a way you absolutely, 100%, could not miss..... whereas my old box was a brick of metal. Unless delphi stopped stamping some of their boxes.....

As far as my routing, mine is a mess at the moment. I installed my RNR and then almost immediately did an axle swap that landed me with an axle with tabs already welded on the axle and Fusion 4x4 TR. This placed my ram quite differently than I had it before and I actually flipped it to mount better (or rather "for the moment"). I'd like to flip it back and get the lines run better than they are at the moment I don't drive my jeep much so this little fix is kinda drawing on and on as I come up with other projects to address. Currently, my ram extends to the passenger side, but I'd prefer to flip it and have it extend to the driver's side. It doesn't aggravate me enough to chop the tabs on the TB bracket and reposition them, but I need to run my lines better.

Part of my issue has been trying to work with the length of hoses I have. Really, I think the best thing is to position the ram, figure out the best routing with either 90* or straight fittings, and get a couple hoses custom made to the ideal length you need, keeping enough slack for axle articulation.

 

Bump for updates, I’m out of time today... more tomorrow.

 

Nice documentation of the process here. That bar the cooler is sitting on is what I thought might cause issue sliding your winch straight back under the grill.

 

Thanks!

As for the bar, originally I was thinking I can just notch that part. But, after getting a better look at things, I can just mount the bumper 1/4” lower and let the winch slide right under the bar. I’m rebuilding the frame horns anyways so it’s a perfect opportunity to lower the bumper a hair or two. I’ll still have to notch the bar a little for the clutch handle. Depending on how time goes, the frame chop may be put on the back burner. However, I wouldn’t mind just cutting the bar off and raising it up a few inches. That will totally cure the clearance issue and allow me to keep my bumper higher.

Or... I can clock the winch like you mentioned before and have the clutch handle toward the front of the bumper. I think there may be room for that.

 

Cooler mounted, return lines ran, and a start to the frame chop. Note, I did cut a little far forward for the frame notch in the event I ever want to move my axle forward a little. It’s not happening any time soon but there’s room for the future possibilities.

 

SV - you being an aircraft guy I probably don't have to ask if you are going to Adel Clamp the hell out of those return lines from this old RV6 builder. Don't want them rubbing in the bush! Nice job BTW and good records for future followers doing same mod. What drove you to do the hydro? Big tires coming?

 

Finished the frame notch and almost done with the hydro steering.

Ill use a clamp or two to keep the lines tidy. Haha.

I decided to do the hydro assist as preventative medicine. My old steering box had play in the sector shaft. The hydro assist will help make sure the new steering box stays healthy. I’ll throw 37’s on when my 35’s get worn out but that’s the biggest I’ll go till I do an axle swap... which is years down the road most likely.

 

10,000 character limit on other post... will continue here.

Update 13Jan21
trouble again... the easiest part is turning into a headache. I got new 3/4 hose for the pump scavenge and installed the reservoir. The reservoir is huge... it’s like stuffing 10lbs of stuff into a 5lb bag. There’s no room, the lines hit the radiator coolant lines big time which creates a heat transfer concern. The resi hits the stock air box, and then the top of the resi hits the hood when I try to close it. I’m working with the psc guys now to figure out why this is happening. Maybe the wrong resi, but I don’t think so. They did say that others have used a cold air intake setup. I’m not fond of cold air intakes but I may just go ahead and get one.

In these two pics, you can see how tight the fit is. The resi is literally against the core support and still pushing the air box to the point where the stock air intake tube doesn’t line up. Maybe they sent me the wrong resi... not sure.




The lines look like they’re coming off the resi in a bad direction. The elbows are 90* but I feel they should be a 45* for the 3/8 line and a straight fitting for the 3/4 line. With the 90* 3/4 line, the scavenge line dips below the pump with the hose almost collapsed before it angles back up to the pump. No bueno. A straight (or 45*) fitting would allow the line to route smoothly next to the air box or even under an aftermarket air intake.




As for the height issue, I can probably shave about a half inch or so from the plastic that the resi mounts to, this will lower it a little. The guys at psc will get back to me in the morning about the resi... more to follow

Update 15Jan21

I replaced the fitting on my gear box with the 90* fitting, the coolant reservoir fits nicely now.



So for anyone else doing what I did, I think it would be best to do 90* fittings on the gear box and 45’s on the ram.

I talked with the guys at psc who were extremely helpful. They’re sending me new 45* fittings for the reservoir to line the return and scavenge lines up better. They’re also sending me a new piece of 3/4” hose since the other one was cut to get off the barbed fittings. As for the reservoir hitting the hood, after I took the air box out and clocked the reservoir a little it clears the hood with about 1/4” to spare.



I have a cold air intake on the way since the stock air box will not work with the new reservoir. I’m not too excited about not using the stock air box but I don’t see another option if I want to keep the psc reservoir.

Looks like I’m in a holding pattern till mid next week when more parts show up.

Side note: I left my hydro lines from the ram to the gear box a little long right now. My idea is that I will eventually add metalcloak 3.5” springs which based on reviews will net me about 4.5” lift. These springs will give me 1.5” additional lift. Also, I plan on re-doing my shock mounts and limit straps when I replace my springs to allow for more droop and less up travel. I want to keep my lines long so I’m not having to replace expensive hose when I get to that point. Once I get a chance to flex the Jeep out I’ll clamp the lines appropriately and keep them out of harms way.

Update 20Jan21

Finally able to do something to the Jeep again. I installed the new hose and fittings from psc, bled the system and am amazed at how easy I can turn the wheel with one finger. I can’t wait to get it back on the rocks.

new hose



Also, looking at my ram hoses, I’m not sure where to add clamps to secure the hoses. They’re out of the way of everything and if I add clamps, they’ll only restrict movement when the suspension articulates.



Final update...
My new air intake arrived and I had to cut the mount plate down a bit to clear the hydro lines. Everything is in and fitting well, still crammed though but not as bad as before.





Now... not everything is good. Troubleshooting posts will be posted below.

 

New gear box fitting replaced, reservoir issues resolved, and now waiting on parts.