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Front Lower Control Arm Recommendations???

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Old May 30, 2012 | 03:40 AM
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Default Front Lower Control Arm Recommendations???

Details - 2008 JKU X. Installed shocks and springs from a 2012 Rubicon. Went with 2.5" Rough Country budget boost with dual stabilizers. Added BFG KM2's, 285/75/17 on bedlined stock rims. I'm not a mechanic and did all work myself because I want to learn more about my Jeep.

Ride is terrible. Have had death wobble 2 times at high speeds. I've checked all alignment, steering wheel is straight, tow-in appears very close, caster looks like about 3.7 on drivers side and 4.5 on passengers side using iPhone AngleFinder app which as I understand from reading posts here is probably more like 1.7 and 2.5. I've also changed front tracbar bolts and tightened all control arms to spec.

I would like to fix my problems myself if possible since taking it to a shop now feels like giving up.

I've ordered the NorthRidge bolt set and plan to change out the remaining bolts. Should I buy adjustable LCA's and see if the caster is the problem? If so what kind are recommended? I don't plan to do heavy off-roading, just want a good street ride. Or, should I take it to a shop so they can diagnose the problem which could be ball joints too since I have 52k miles?

RC LCA'S have a good price and I would rather not spend a lot but also don't want the old "you get what you paid for" to bite me in the a$$ later.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:22 AM
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I installed the same lift on my 2008 JKU at 60k miles and it drives great. No DW so far. I did take it to a shop for a alignment and to recenter the steering wheel. Did you order the series 2 kit with the rear track bar bracket and the longer sway bar links?
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:27 AM
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I have longer sway bar links from the Rubicon suspension I picked up that I put on the front. I didn't do anything to rear track bar. Looks to me like I am only shifted to the passenger side about 1/4-1/2 inch though in the rear.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 92BUKI
I have longer sway bar links from the Rubicon suspension I picked up that I put on the front. I didn't do anything to rear track bar. Looks to me like I am only shifted to the passenger side about 1/4-1/2 inch though in the rear.
The Series 2 kit had longer links that were put on the rear and then you moved the rear ones to the front.
It could be any number of things that are causing your DW. I dont believe it's your ball joints because you didn't have DW before the lift.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:09 PM
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After I put my RC 2.5 lift I experienced death wobble at higher speeds...not a good feeling...so anyways...it appeared to happen when I would hit a slight bump in the road...buddy of mine recommended to change steering stabilizer...I did...and no more death wobble...mine is 2007 JKU....figured the stock steering stabilizer was shot...if u change that u might as well put a relocation bracket as well
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mOjO_JK
After I put my RC 2.5 lift I experienced death wobble at higher speeds...not a good feeling...so anyways...it appeared to happen when I would hit a slight bump in the road...buddy of mine recommended to change steering stabilizer...I did...and no more death wobble...mine is 2007 JKU....figured the stock steering stabilizer was shot...if u change that u might as well put a relocation bracket as well
I have already put the RC dual stabilizer on. Still get bump steer and a very rough ride...
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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Steering stabilizers typically hide the cause of death wobble they are rarely the cause. A suspension set up correctly can run without a stabilizer. I just experienced death wobble, mine happened to be the trackbar bolt enlarging the bracket hole. Search death wobble, there is an awesome right up to diagnose and solve death wobble and shimming issues.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 92BUKI
I have longer sway bar links from the Rubicon suspension I picked up that I put on the front. I didn't do anything to rear track bar. Looks to me like I am only shifted to the passenger side about 1/4-1/2 inch though in the rear.
Rubicons don't have longer links or special springs. If you did install higher rated springs then you probably got more than 2.5 inches lift. Your caster is probably way off and you need an adjustable tracbar to get front end geometry back in sync.

Look at labels on springs. Numbers higher or lower than originals? Should be a number on them between 15 to 19.

Minuscule things can cause death wobble. I was playing with my toe in the other day. I went 4 turns of TRE shorter and had death wobble. 2 turns back longer and it's perfect. Luckily I have a death wobble inducing bump on my street so it's an easy verification.

Last edited by dmhines; May 30, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:50 PM
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Been through the DW post and checklist. I have already changed out track bar bolts and have the Northridge bolt set coming next week. Only thing left that I can see is caster and that is why I wanted to know if anyone had brand recommendations...
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Old May 30, 2012 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dmhines

Rubicons don't have longer links or special springs. If you did install higher rated springs then you probably got more than 2.5 inches lift. Your caster is probably way off and you need an adjustable tracbar to get front end geometry back in sync.

Look at labels on springs. Numbers higher or lower than originals? Should be a number on them between 15 to 19.
I uses the rear links from the Rubicon package I got on the front of my rig. I left my originals on the rear. I now have the same links on front and rear. I don't think it is track bar as the front end is only pushed to the drivers side by about 1/8". I figure I got about 3.25" total with the increased spring rates (18/59).
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