Front Stretch & CO or ORI?
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Front Stretch & CO or ORI?
I was following a thread a couple years back where dirtman was advising someone on a 3" front stretch by:
-Relocating steering box forward by drilling new holes.
-Removing spring perches and burning in C/O towers. Frame Shock Tower Pair
-Moving track bar bracket forward on the frame side. JK Front Frame Track Bar Bracket Ultra 100
-Measure for longer custom control arms.
What am I missing?
I'm hoping to accomplish this and am wondering if I can get the full 3" stretch without the pitman arm hitting anything in its travel.
Why wouldn't I go with ORI Struts for this and forgo coil overs, air bumps and sway bar?
From what I've read the struts act as a bypass shock with a hydraulic bump as well and reliability looks to have improved over the years. Anyone running them have any feedback?
My rig is a 2007 2 door, on 37's, RK XFactor, Pro rock44, not a daily driver but I do drive to & from the trails.
I do also occasionally tow a small 1400# popup with a 115lb tongue weight, which is why I will be sticking with springs & shocks in the rear, though i will add air bumps and a small stretch soon as well.
-Relocating steering box forward by drilling new holes.
-Removing spring perches and burning in C/O towers. Frame Shock Tower Pair
-Moving track bar bracket forward on the frame side. JK Front Frame Track Bar Bracket Ultra 100
-Measure for longer custom control arms.
What am I missing?
I'm hoping to accomplish this and am wondering if I can get the full 3" stretch without the pitman arm hitting anything in its travel.
Why wouldn't I go with ORI Struts for this and forgo coil overs, air bumps and sway bar?
From what I've read the struts act as a bypass shock with a hydraulic bump as well and reliability looks to have improved over the years. Anyone running them have any feedback?
My rig is a 2007 2 door, on 37's, RK XFactor, Pro rock44, not a daily driver but I do drive to & from the trails.
I do also occasionally tow a small 1400# popup with a 115lb tongue weight, which is why I will be sticking with springs & shocks in the rear, though i will add air bumps and a small stretch soon as well.
#2
JK Jedi
You will also need a longer driveshaft unless you are swapping in a dana 60. ORI struts make sense if they fit your application. They are not built for high speed and work best if you can set them up at a 50/50 up down at ride height. You rig will also tend to be crooked most of the time on the trail when you park it, if that bothers you. The struts will simplify the build and if you are mainly rock crawling they would be the way to go. You could tow with ORI's on the rear and they duo allow you to adjust the effective coil rate for towing although 115 pound young weight would be a minimal load on them and you would likely not even have to do anything. I would think you would want the struts on all the corners to get the most out of their design.
#3
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Thanks Dirtman, much appreciated! Because of the angle I would have to mount the ORI's in the rear ( I cant go through in tub in the immediate future) & them not being great for speed, I may just stick with C/O's up front and shock and springs in the rear.
Though I know its not optimal do you think I would be able to continue to tow my trailer if i mounted C/O's with an upper mount like this?
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/s...RoC6XwQAvD_BwE
Reason being is I already have a set of C/O's laying around from a prior build, that would work with this upper mount.
Though I know its not optimal do you think I would be able to continue to tow my trailer if i mounted C/O's with an upper mount like this?
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/s...RoC6XwQAvD_BwE
Reason being is I already have a set of C/O's laying around from a prior build, that would work with this upper mount.
#4
JK Jedi
They should work fine for towing with that mount although I am not a fan of mounting coil overs off the rear like that. You can also add some extra preload into your coils to compensate for the tongue weight of the trailer to keep your rig level. This would be easier then adjusting struts for towing.