Frustrated...
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,046
Likes: 1
From: Fort Lewis, WA
I understand your frustration but I think you'd be better off stepping back for a second do some research and then try to diagnose the problem. It could be a simple fix which would save you more than a few bucks unless your dead set on spending at least a $1000. If your dead set on a new lift I'd look at Teraflex, I've got their 3in full flex arm lift and I love it, plus their customer service is top notch as well as their youtube how to videos.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Harahan, LA.
Hmmm...I've never heard of too little caster casuing death wobble . Flighty steering, yes...but death wobble...no way. If it is true death wobble, your Jeep will shake uncontrollably to the point where it feels like it is about to fall apart. If that's what you have then it is most likey track bar related or something other than your control arms. Maybe another steering component issue.
Can I assume that the Zone lift (made by BDS but without the warranty) is just the coils, shocks and maybe track bar or relocation bracket? 9 times out of 10, DW is going to come from either bolts not torqued properly (track bars are 120 ft ilbs) or possibly the mount holes are wobbled out which is very common. Some say that once you remove the stock bolts once, they are never the same. You can try running new bolts like the kit NR sells as those are designed to be the proper size bolts vs the wrong ones our Jeeps ship with.
If you really want to rule out the control arms, you can lossen the bolts, shake your Jeep back and forth a bit to reposition them and then retigten. You can check the bushings and mount holes but I;ve never heard of anyone getting DW from control arms.
At 4" of lift, you are going to have some significant driveline changes with driveshaft issues ane caster and pinion issues. That is probably why people are saying to get a better lift. Maybe I'd use the term, more complete lift. Getting adjustable components like control arms and track bars let you dial everything in and get the geometry back in line. If cost is an issue, grab a set of AEV brackets. Not the greatest for off-road since they hang down a bit but they work very well at reducing or eliminating flighty steering. And they are about $100 vs $300+ for adjustable arms.
I've wheeled with guys with Zone lifts and they are not terrible. I can think of other brands that are worse. They guys that I know had no issues off road but found the coils began to sag over time with heavy bumpers. Most went with Rock Krawler or other brands that use progressive rate coils that handle heavy weight.
And the 3.5" X Factor mentioned by the vendor above, that comes with all 8 arms and both front and rear track bars (the description above makes it sound less complete). It also forces you to push your axle back an inch to recenter the rear wheels in the wheel well. That means moving your sway bar back an inch as well and some minor welding for the rear track bar bracket. Great lift (I have it) but it is very expensive and could be overkill depending on what your wheeling intentions are. The Max Travel systems from RK are a great intro and are fully upgradeable if needed.
Can I assume that the Zone lift (made by BDS but without the warranty) is just the coils, shocks and maybe track bar or relocation bracket? 9 times out of 10, DW is going to come from either bolts not torqued properly (track bars are 120 ft ilbs) or possibly the mount holes are wobbled out which is very common. Some say that once you remove the stock bolts once, they are never the same. You can try running new bolts like the kit NR sells as those are designed to be the proper size bolts vs the wrong ones our Jeeps ship with.
If you really want to rule out the control arms, you can lossen the bolts, shake your Jeep back and forth a bit to reposition them and then retigten. You can check the bushings and mount holes but I;ve never heard of anyone getting DW from control arms.
At 4" of lift, you are going to have some significant driveline changes with driveshaft issues ane caster and pinion issues. That is probably why people are saying to get a better lift. Maybe I'd use the term, more complete lift. Getting adjustable components like control arms and track bars let you dial everything in and get the geometry back in line. If cost is an issue, grab a set of AEV brackets. Not the greatest for off-road since they hang down a bit but they work very well at reducing or eliminating flighty steering. And they are about $100 vs $300+ for adjustable arms.
I've wheeled with guys with Zone lifts and they are not terrible. I can think of other brands that are worse. They guys that I know had no issues off road but found the coils began to sag over time with heavy bumpers. Most went with Rock Krawler or other brands that use progressive rate coils that handle heavy weight.
And the 3.5" X Factor mentioned by the vendor above, that comes with all 8 arms and both front and rear track bars (the description above makes it sound less complete). It also forces you to push your axle back an inch to recenter the rear wheels in the wheel well. That means moving your sway bar back an inch as well and some minor welding for the rear track bar bracket. Great lift (I have it) but it is very expensive and could be overkill depending on what your wheeling intentions are. The Max Travel systems from RK are a great intro and are fully upgradeable if needed.
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Newton, NJ
And the 3.5" X Factor mentioned by the vendor above, that comes with all 8 arms and both front and rear track bars (the description above makes it sound less complete). It also forces you to push your axle back an inch to recenter the rear wheels in the wheel well. That means moving your sway bar back an inch as well and some minor welding for the rear track bar bracket. Great lift (I have it) but it is very expensive and could be overkill depending on what your wheeling intentions are. The Max Travel systems from RK are a great intro and are fully upgradeable if needed.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 1
From: East Bridgewater, MA
Former Vendor
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 0
From: Newton, NJ
Check out my Facebook to see the 3 link in action.
The nice thing about all of the options is that you can really fine tune what you want in your kit.
JK Freak
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 854
Likes: 0
From: Humble, Texas
X2 with that much lift I think that is a must. If you were just at 2.5" I'd say it was something else. Get some good ones though. Like Teraflex, Rock Krawler, Metal Cloak to name a few. You can keep these and change out other components as you want.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 234
Likes: 0
From: Hookmans ,IN
This forum has really went down hill over the past year. I like how now when a person has a problem the first response is a vendor, not offering help but, suggesting to buy a new lift. A lift that they stock and sell. Really to help the op the forum needs more information. What parts were included/ changed with your kit? Did you change to new wheels and tires at the same time? Etc. Plenty of people have been satisfied with zone brand lifts. Maybe they will chime in with some suggestions.
I would research by reading some installs on the project-jk site and read some death wobble threads on this forum. Maybe you can draw your own conclusion on what your issue is. It is most likely not the fact that you bought a "zone" brand lift. Could be lack of parts to complete the lift for your height, loose bolts, worn factory parts, wheels and tires out of balance. Maybe your installer is the problem. At bare minimum I would try another shop. The last thing I would do is immediately buy another lift kit.
I would research by reading some installs on the project-jk site and read some death wobble threads on this forum. Maybe you can draw your own conclusion on what your issue is. It is most likely not the fact that you bought a "zone" brand lift. Could be lack of parts to complete the lift for your height, loose bolts, worn factory parts, wheels and tires out of balance. Maybe your installer is the problem. At bare minimum I would try another shop. The last thing I would do is immediately buy another lift kit.
JK Freak
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 823
Likes: 0
From: Seminole, FL
Hmmm...I've never heard of too little caster casuing death wobble . Flighty steering, yes...but death wobble...no way. If it is true death wobble, your Jeep will shake uncontrollably to the point where it feels like it is about to fall apart. If that's what you have then it is most likey track bar related or something other than your control arms. Maybe another steering component issue.
Can I assume that the Zone lift (made by BDS but without the warranty) is just the coils, shocks and maybe track bar or relocation bracket? 9 times out of 10, DW is going to come from either bolts not torqued properly (track bars are 120 ft ilbs) or possibly the mount holes are wobbled out which is very common. Some say that once you remove the stock bolts once, they are never the same. You can try running new bolts like the kit NR sells as those are designed to be the proper size bolts vs the wrong ones our Jeeps ship with.
If you really want to rule out the control arms, you can lossen the bolts, shake your Jeep back and forth a bit to reposition them and then retigten. You can check the bushings and mount holes but I;ve never heard of anyone getting DW from control arms.
At 4" of lift, you are going to have some significant driveline changes with driveshaft issues ane caster and pinion issues. That is probably why people are saying to get a better lift. Maybe I'd use the term, more complete lift. Getting adjustable components like control arms and track bars let you dial everything in and get the geometry back in line. If cost is an issue, grab a set of AEV brackets. Not the greatest for off-road since they hang down a bit but they work very well at reducing or eliminating flighty steering. And they are about $100 vs $300+ for adjustable arms.
I've wheeled with guys with Zone lifts and they are not terrible. I can think of other brands that are worse. They guys that I know had no issues off road but found the coils began to sag over time with heavy bumpers. Most went with Rock Krawler or other brands that use progressive rate coils that handle heavy weight.
And the 3.5" X Factor mentioned by the vendor above, that comes with all 8 arms and both front and rear track bars (the description above makes it sound less complete). It also forces you to push your axle back an inch to recenter the rear wheels in the wheel well. That means moving your sway bar back an inch as well and some minor welding for the rear track bar bracket. Great lift (I have it) but it is very expensive and could be overkill depending on what your wheeling intentions are. The Max Travel systems from RK are a great intro and are fully upgradeable if needed.
Can I assume that the Zone lift (made by BDS but without the warranty) is just the coils, shocks and maybe track bar or relocation bracket? 9 times out of 10, DW is going to come from either bolts not torqued properly (track bars are 120 ft ilbs) or possibly the mount holes are wobbled out which is very common. Some say that once you remove the stock bolts once, they are never the same. You can try running new bolts like the kit NR sells as those are designed to be the proper size bolts vs the wrong ones our Jeeps ship with.
If you really want to rule out the control arms, you can lossen the bolts, shake your Jeep back and forth a bit to reposition them and then retigten. You can check the bushings and mount holes but I;ve never heard of anyone getting DW from control arms.
At 4" of lift, you are going to have some significant driveline changes with driveshaft issues ane caster and pinion issues. That is probably why people are saying to get a better lift. Maybe I'd use the term, more complete lift. Getting adjustable components like control arms and track bars let you dial everything in and get the geometry back in line. If cost is an issue, grab a set of AEV brackets. Not the greatest for off-road since they hang down a bit but they work very well at reducing or eliminating flighty steering. And they are about $100 vs $300+ for adjustable arms.
I've wheeled with guys with Zone lifts and they are not terrible. I can think of other brands that are worse. They guys that I know had no issues off road but found the coils began to sag over time with heavy bumpers. Most went with Rock Krawler or other brands that use progressive rate coils that handle heavy weight.
And the 3.5" X Factor mentioned by the vendor above, that comes with all 8 arms and both front and rear track bars (the description above makes it sound less complete). It also forces you to push your axle back an inch to recenter the rear wheels in the wheel well. That means moving your sway bar back an inch as well and some minor welding for the rear track bar bracket. Great lift (I have it) but it is very expensive and could be overkill depending on what your wheeling intentions are. The Max Travel systems from RK are a great intro and are fully upgradeable if needed.
I would start with the Track Bar mounting holes and see if the bushings are wallowed out on your front TB. If they are, get a new track bar and the Northridge bolt kit for 9/16.
2nd thing I recommend is to check the play in your balljoints. I would say from my time on this forum that 8 or 9 out of 10 people with death wobble turns out to be one of those two things.
Find PLANMAN on jkowners.com Common source of death wobble on Jeep JK Wranglers - YouTube
Find PLANMAN on jkowners.com Death Wobble Diagnosis and Inspection Jeep JK Wrangler Part 1 - YouTube