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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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FT Long Arm Question

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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 06:33 AM
  #11  
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From: L.I, N.Y
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Originally Posted by hamer138
I just installed a FT 6" long arm kit and the directions are not that clear on alot of things. Make sure to smooth all your cuts down so the new brackets will fit wright. And a tourch of some kind I think is needed unless you want to spend a month on grinding brackets off. You have to cut your gastank skid plate to fit over the new bracket for the rear and the new cross member for the transmission. The body mounts on the front has to be notched so you can bolt on your front brackets. Im sure there were other things but I cant recall them all right now. If you have a question just post it up and I will be glade to help.
Thats good stuff to know. Any idea how it took to install.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:29 AM
  #12  
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I didnt have any help but I still got it done in three days.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 02:31 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by hamer138
I didnt have any help but I still got it done in three days.
Hopefully it will only take me two days and i will have some help but i try to make everthing perfect when i work on other peoples cars so it may take three days.

Any other thoughts.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
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When you drop the gas tank there is a plug for the full pump on the top so dont just let it fall or you will be splicing wires. Get some Bar Pin Alimanators for the rear shocks. Makes life alot easier. Make sure to have some extra brake fluid. Also a Uni-Bit/Step Bit will make drilling through the fram an ease. And for the bump stops on the front, the screw is a self tapping screw ( I figured this out the hard way) the directons dont tell you what size drill bit to use nore does it tell you to install them LOL but just find the size of the screw and drop the drill bit down a 1/16. And the directions tell you to put the new cross member for the trans in first. DONT DO IT!! It is impossiable to get the exaust comming from the headers back on. Which reminds me. Most likely when you try to take off the bolts from the exaust flange. They wont come out. I took a sawsall to them and bought new grade 8 bolts. When you get the exaust put back into place fill free to install the new cross member. There was so meany little things that I came across it would take for ever to type it all out. I should of just done a write up on the install . And for my last tip (unless you would like another paragraph LOL) screw all the control arms as far in as they will go. That should make everything prety close as far as pinion and caster angle go. Sorry for all the random tips but doing all this should deffinitly save you alot of time. Ill be installing my gears this weekend so post up if you run into something.
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 07:20 PM
  #15  
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From: L.I, N.Y
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Originally Posted by hamer138
When you drop the gas tank there is a plug for the full pump on the top so dont just let it fall or you will be splicing wires. Get some Bar Pin Alimanators for the rear shocks. Makes life alot easier. Make sure to have some extra brake fluid. Also a Uni-Bit/Step Bit will make drilling through the fram an ease. And for the bump stops on the front, the screw is a self tapping screw ( I figured this out the hard way) the directons dont tell you what size drill bit to use nore does it tell you to install them LOL but just find the size of the screw and drop the drill bit down a 1/16. And the directions tell you to put the new cross member for the trans in first. DONT DO IT!! It is impossiable to get the exaust comming from the headers back on. Which reminds me. Most likely when you try to take off the bolts from the exaust flange. They wont come out. I took a sawsall to them and bought new grade 8 bolts. When you get the exaust put back into place fill free to install the new cross member. There was so meany little things that I came across it would take for ever to type it all out. I should of just done a write up on the install . And for my last tip (unless you would like another paragraph LOL) screw all the control arms as far in as they will go. That should make everything prety close as far as pinion and caster angle go. Sorry for all the random tips but doing all this should deffinitly save you alot of time. Ill be installing my gears this weekend so post up if you run into something.
I am guessing the exhaust needs to come out to remove the factory control arm brackets and install the new ones. I am a tech a jeep dealer so i am used to taking out the exhaust,but why do you need to remove it.

I do not have parts yet, my budy just orderd it and should be here some time next week so i am not sure when it will get put in, but i will post any problems.

Would it be posible to post some pics ot the frame bracket because i cant see to find any good ones.

Thanks for all the guys.
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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:45 AM
  #16  
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From: Lubbock TX ,
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The write up for the Full Traction long arm kit seems a bit more than what is stated in the lift information. it states this is a complete bolt on product. nothing saying anything about cutting off stock brackets. sounds as if we have to make additional mods. Thanks for the info
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