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Full float vs. semi float

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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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Default Full float vs. semi float

As a disclaimer im not looking for axles im doing great with the 44s i have now. I was wondering what is the difference between a semi and full float axles? What makes them better or worse then the other? How to tell the difference?

Thanks for the help. Again im just curious about the differneces.

Thanks
Sam
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by robbins84
As a disclaimer im not looking for axles im doing great with the 44s i have now. I was wondering what is the difference between a semi and full float axles? What makes them better or worse then the other? How to tell the difference?

Thanks for the help. Again im just curious about the differneces.

Thanks
Sam
Full float the axles are bolted in and the weight is carried on the hub. Semi float the axles are held in by a c clip or in our case (i believe)the disc brake backing plate. In a semi float if u snap a shaft u usually loose your tire and wheel and is a major fix . A semi float you simply unbolt the shaft and slide it out (hopefully broke piece isn't stuck in the carrier) and leave it out (if u got a locker) or u slide in your new shaft. Full float is better for off roading and strength
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 05:16 AM
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Thanks so would this make the stock axel a full float? I have rubicon 44s
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 05:19 AM
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A full float uses a hub that attached to the axle with larger bearings. The wheels attach to the hub and not the actual axle shaft. You can even run without rear axle shafts if you have front wheel drive. The weight of the vehicle is placed on the hubs instead of a flange like a semi float uses. When you load up a vehicle and run big tires the semi float flanges become the weak point and tend to bend. Like Spartan said the full float shafts are bolted the the hub as well and are easily removed. Shellack of a big flange also makes it easier to carry spares if you wish. You can do a simple google search and easily see the differences.
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 06:23 AM
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Here you go: Rear Axle Semi-Floating and Full-Floating - Off-Road Magazine

Bent rear flanges and bearing failures are very common on the JKs these days. Obviously, most can get by with upgrading to chromoly shafts in the rear. For those that move up to a D60 or greater, full-float only makes sense. A few of the companies selling new axles are offering D60s that are semi-float, which completely fails to address the main issue with the stock axle.
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
Here you go: Rear Axle Semi-Floating and Full-Floating - Off-Road Magazine Bent rear flanges and bearing failures are very common on the JKs these days. Obviously, most can get by with upgrading to chromoly shafts in the rear. For those that move up to a D60 or greater, full-float only makes sense. A few of the companies selling new axles are offering D60s that are semi-float, which completely fails to address the main issue with the stock axle.
The usual build process on a JK adds significant weight, which pushes the load carrying capabilities of the stock axles. You get a major increase in capacity by going full float front & rear. Downsides are again added weight, and cost...yikes! As mentioned, most can be confident by just going chromoly axle shafts. Just have to be mindful of increasing your weight load as you build.
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by robbins84
Thanks so would this make the stock axel a full float? I have rubicon 44s
Stock are semi float. Only place you'll find stock fulls are on 3/4 ton and up trucks
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 10:14 AM
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Thanks for everyones help
Sam
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