So.... after a lot of the research and asking around on here, I got the impression an alignment is pretty useless on these jeeps without adjustable control arms. I read you can only check the toe, which in most cases is within range, and recenter the steering wheel via the track bar. Had a brief convo with the guy that installed the tires via Facebook.

Since I bought the jeep I have installed the TF 2" leveling kit, and added 35s. Any input is appreciated guys.

 

This made me really question him now, doesn't a stabilizer just mask death wobble and is not a cure or something to be used as a prevention method?



He then said "yeah, it's time for one! I'd suggest a dual stabilizer"

 

Go up to the writeups area, at the top is an index, find the DIY Alignment writeup. It will show the procedures.

But you are correct:
Without adding components, the caster is not adjustable.
Without adding components, the camber is not adjustable.
Without adding components, the axles can not be re-centered.

Toe In/Out is adjustable - a lift does not change this, may or may not be needed.
Steering Wheel is adjustable - a lift definitely does change this, 5 minutes and a wrench is all it takes to correct. (drag link, not trackbar. An adj trackbar will recenter the axles left to right under the jeep)

 

Yes toe is the only adjustment on a stock jeep. Stock I believe is 3/8-1/4" which is too much if running a bigger tire. 1/8-1/16 is recommended with a 35" tire.

Do not install a dual SS.
I would be assuming its to mask a problem which is not good.
#2 the dual shocks put a lot of strain on the box.

Not going to lie .. I ran the dual RC shocks for awhile. I was only masking my problems. After the drop brackets my steering was pretty good except for bumpsteer. I then installed a high steer kit. Overall being a 2 door she could be a little jittery at speed. A good SS does help.

 

Thanks guys, well I'm running the 35s now so should in pay to the $89 to have the toe checked?

 

Not just no, but Hell no. Use a tape measure. Here is a way to take really accurate measurements:

Get some bungee cords and 2 straight pieces of 1x2 about 6-8" longer than the diameter of your tires. Bungee the boards to the outside of the tires and parallel to the ground. You want the boards just high enough on the tires so a tape measure can run between them without hitting obstructions under the Jeep. Now measure the toe. Easy, accurate, and not subject to variations along the edge of the tread.

The way you place the bungees will depend on the design of the wheels. If you can't bungee to the wheel spokes or holes, the bungees can go around behind the tire.

 

I certainly wouldn't get after market unless you want it for looks or damage your stock one. I've been running with out a SS or 6k miles and no issues. So if you are getting "death wobble" a SS will just mask the symptoms and not really fix anything.

Spend the cash on lower adjustable control arms and that can help a good bit.

 

We did the TF kit also, years ago, with caster and wheelbase being affected. So yes, we did arms to make adjustments. Don't let ANYONE convince you to NOT run a steering damper. They are beneficial, no matter how much everything else is "dialed in." It is wise to replace it, if not damaged, when replacing the shock absorbers

 

If just the center of the tire is wearing you have to much air in the tires. Do a chalk test to determine the correct pressure.
I have 305/70r16 on my rig and only run 22lbs of pressure and even at that it appears the center is wearing a bit faster.

 

Your tire guys recommendation of 35-38 psi is real high. I run 28 on my MTRs. Start at 32 and do a chalk test to see your wear pattern. Sounds like you are way high. A little lower pressure will soften up your ride as well.