chrsmi2

https://youtu.be/WZs57RuYZTQ


That is the link to the YouTube video I made showing the front end and all the parts and things that has been changed. Any input would be nice.

resharp001

Ok.....watching video....removing the cam bolts is a big deal. just torquing those CA bolts down is NOT enough, or should I say I'd never do that. Look at a cam bolt eliminator kit that will fill in that extra space you notched out. Also, I didn't see you answer the question about how long the BJ's been in. They looked pretty new in the video. Misalignment in the DL and TR is normal, but those joints do look pretty loose. Typically those won't just flop under their own weight like that.

chrsmi2

I did post a couple replies but I guess they was to long and it said a mod was going to have to approve. But the ball joints have about 100 miles on them. It's been to scary for the wife to drive and I been trying to drive on my off days trouble shooting.

I thought torquing them down wasn't enough either but RC said it would be fine. But I wasn't thinking the DL and TR was supposed to be that loose either .it all looks to be OEM and it has 105k miles on the Jeep.

resharp001

Ok, definitely give those BJs a little time to wear in then. flghty/darty steering after that install is completely normal for that brand. I know it's a kinda freaky feeling, but that part will get better. That is probably a good part of the reason you feel like you're all over the road. It could be 500 miles, it could take up to 1500 miles....but they will get better.

chrsmi2

Thanks I will drive it more. Might drive it a couple times to work then 120 miles round trip. Wish me luck. BTW I have started with a air pressure adjustment started at 36psi. Lowered to 30psi cold ( 34psi hot) and seemed to help a little .Now just lowered to 30psi hot. Now time for a test try.

BoraBora

You don't 'need' a DL flip. My Jeep drives perfect without it and I netted 3.25" of lift up front and 4" in the rear. I have no bump steer, 4 degrees of caster, and can drive with 1 finger on the wheel at 70-90mph.

Like resharp stated your ball joints haven't broken in yet and are too tight. Break em in before you blindly throw money at it.

chrsmi2

https://youtu.be/__UFY0we4DE

I have been riding the Jeep prob have clocked another 200 miles on the ball joints. It's been giving the intermediate sway bar flashing while driving. I took it apart and cleaned it and got it back to working. Wasn't that bad dirty just real gummy. Now the reason I posted the video is it had alot of movement in the joint when I went to take it off and it didnt get any less after I cleaned it. So I guess my question is it normal to have that much? If not should I just replace it with a non edisco factory sway bar. Or any other suggestion?

BTW it seems to be getting a little better on driving. Just a little nerve biting at times on the rough 2 lane roads I have to ride to work.

chrsmi2

After about 1000- 1500miles on the new ball joints the ride never seemed to get better. I took the drag link and tie rod off to check the joints and found 1 joint on each very loose. I ordered a terraflex steering set ( heavy duty rebuildable joints) and the ride impoved but I noticed on the crappy roads in South Alabama still wasn't the same as when we first lifted the Jeep. I done some research and started paying more attention to the ride and felt like the rear of the Jeep was a little bobbing. So I ordered a Hellwig rear sway bar for 3-6" lifted Jeeps. Now I am back to riding better than before. I just got back from a test ride making sharp shipping curved that before was scetchy at 45mph and was going through them at 60-65 with no problem. So I guess with all the parts I replaced I was soon to get it back right.
My air pressure in the tires are at 36psi front and rear.

Items replaced in order:
Senergy ball joints both sides
Rock Krawler front upper and lower control arms.
Rock Krawler front track bar
Terraflex heavy duty steering kit
Senergy cam bolt eliminate kit
Hellwig rear sway bar kit 7/8"

Items left to replace to have entire new suspension:
Front sway bar
Rear control arms
front and rear Sway bar links
Rear track bar


​​​​​​Thanks for all the help.

karls10jk

There's no need for your tire pressure to be that high unless you're towing or hauling excessive weight. On the sway bar, yes, things can ride nicer with the appropriate sway bar lengths. You can replace your front sway bar but be aware that it will open up Pandora's box. You'll need to set the computer so it doesn't see the bar as missing. Do you have anything happening on the rear track bar to raise your roll center? Raising the rear track bar will also help if it hasn't been corrected.

chrsmi2

The rear track bar was raised when I lifted it. It had a relocation bracket on the axle side to raise it to keep it close to level. And the rear sway bar I swapped to was same length just stiffer.