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Going to 35s from 33s

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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:02 AM
  #1  
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Default Going to 35s from 33s

Currently running 33s on my 14 JKU no lift and no leveling. It's time to replace my tires as I've had these wheels and tires on my other truck and put them on my jk earlier this year. Here is where I am looking for some guidance. I'm looking to put 35s on my XD hoss wheels.

What should I take into consideration so that I don't impact my ride? What tires do you recommend? What lift or leveling kit? I want to do this right the first time around? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TrailRider954
Currently running 33s on my 14 JKU no lift and no leveling. It's time to replace my tires as I've had these wheels and tires on my other truck and put them on my jk earlier this year. Here is where I am looking for some guidance. I'm looking to put 35s on my XD hoss wheels.

What should I take into consideration so that I don't impact my ride? What tires do you recommend? What lift or leveling kit? I want to do this right the first time around? Any help is greatly appreciated.

You have many options to fit 35's....

you can go with minimal lift (2.5" lift - BB/Coil lift) and trim or add flat fenders.

OR you can jump to a +3" lift (coil spring) with stock fenders.

If you are looking adding more weight (bumpers/winch) start looking at coil spring lifts to reduce sagging. or if you are looking for minimum lift for off-camber situation a BB may fit your needs if your are not adding winch/bumpers. Once you look at going over about 3.5" of lift ....added costs start to creep in such as; DS, Control arms, track bars...etc.).
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RevyJKU08

You have many options to fit 35's....

you can go with minimal lift (2.5" lift - BB/Coil lift) and trim or add flat fenders...
I am running 35s, 2.5" TF coil lift, OME HD rear springs with stock, untrimmed fenders. Did trim pinch seam to stop it from rubbing, and do have RK rear spring wedges, which give a slight increase to lift. Otherwise, no rubbing with 4.5" backspace wheels. And I run very heavy ...



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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:58 AM
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I would recommend going straight to a quality coil lift. I started out with a BY as well but with bumpers and winch ect the factory springs could not hold up. I have the RK 2.5 with their new triple rate coils and am very happy so far, handles weight well and has good ride and stance.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
I am running 35s, 2.5" TF coil lift, OME HD rear springs with stock, untrimmed fenders. Did trim pinch seam to stop it from rubbing, and do have RK rear spring wedges, which give a slight increase to lift. Otherwise, no rubbing with 4.5" backspace wheels. And I run very heavy ...

I run the OME HD springs it's more like 3.25" lift with bumpers/winch. Also, you have TF coils which I know one of my buddies got close to 3" of lift with bumpers/weight on his JKU. The springs you are running are Heavy duty (OME & TF) and are great springs vs just the stock springs which sag with added weight. Are your tires a true 35? That will make a difference as well as I know some 35's on the market run like 33.5".

Running the OME HD coils with bumpers & winch gave me an just a tad below 3.25" lift. Running the Cooper STT 35's (actual 34.6") mounted on a 17x8 with 4.6" BS rubbed on my Rear stock fenders fully flexed out and thus the reason I went with flat fenders. Yes I could have added a 1/2" bigger bumps stops or added rear control arms to push back the axle to the center of the wheel well to avoid the rubbing on the stock fenders.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RevyJKU08
I run the OME HD springs it's more like 3.25" lift with bumpers/winch. Also, you have TF coils which I know one of my buddies got close to 3" of lift with bumpers/weight on his JKU. The springs you are running are Heavy duty (OME & TF) and are great springs vs just the stock springs which sag with added weight. Are your tires a true 35? That will make a difference as well as I know some 35's on the market run like 33.5".

Running the OME HD coils with bumpers & winch gave me an just a tad below 3.25" lift. Running the Cooper STT 35's (actual 34.6") mounted on a 17x8 with 4.6" BS rubbed on my Rear stock fenders fully flexed out and thus the reason I went with flat fenders. Yes I could have added a 1/2" bigger bumps stops or added rear control arms to push back the axle to the center of the wheel well to avoid the rubbing on the stock fenders.
All good questions and points. I would encourage anyone interested in what I'm running to click on the link in my signature--it will take you to a fairly complete list of my current configuration. I should emphasize that when I remove the hardtop and the expedition gear, the OME rear springs are too high. I replace them with the TF 2.5" springs. As I indicated: My Jeep is VERY heavy; expedition rigs get that way ...


Note that in the above picture I am not loaded up for a trip. If that were the case, there would be another Alu-Box on the trail rack, as well as a 5-pound propane bottle. And perhaps yet another one on top of the Jeep, as well as the second spare.

I know there are plenty of folks running "2.5 inch lifts" and "35 inch" tires, and they are not trimming/replacing their OEM flares. The exception is far and away someone who puts such a rig together and has problems with rubbing that do require flare changes. Unless one happens to like the look of flat/trimmed fenders (both win the "goofy looking" award in my book), I would suggest put the rig together and see if it works. Then decide what you should do. Everyone's configuration is going to be a little bit different and what works/doesn't work for someone on this forum may be the exact opposite experience for you.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TrailRider954
What should I take into consideration so that I don't impact my ride? What tires do you recommend? What lift or leveling kit? I want to do this right the first time around? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Wheel backspacing - The bigger tires need to be far enough out of the wheel wells to not rub components or the frame.

Wheel well space - Some combination of lift and/or flares and/or bumpstops. We would need a better idea of what you are wanting/expecting to really answer that.

If you haven't opened to two threads stuck to the top of this modified area, now might be a good time.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 01:33 PM
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I very satisfied with my AEV 2.5'' XT lift and geometry correction bracket. My pinch seems are trimmed from the factory. I had to trim the front air dam. Minor rubbing in full flex with sway bars disconnected but nothing to worry about.

The other good options depending on your budget are any 2.5'' lift from Rock Krawler, Metalcloak dual rate ARB edition 2.5'' and terraflex 2.5'' coil lift.
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 05:48 AM
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Thanks for your replies everyone. While I wait out the wearing of my current tires, anyone have comparable pics for 33s vs 35s?
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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 06:34 AM
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Default Tires and ride

I run 35 with 2" with a procomp lift kit. I have a little rubbing when I air down otherwise no issues. To get a better ride on the streets consider 26-28lbs in them rather than 30+.
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