resharp001

I'm still a little confused. You keep referring to the axle side, but I think you really mean frame side. The axle side is still just a rod end, and it hasn't changed in their new design. The frame side they did upgrade from the old poly style bushing to their new DDM bushing, and it looks like a nice improvement. How long have you had that TB? That new bushing is only $20 from them and you can just press it in your existing TB. If you haven't had it for several years, you might just take a video of it while someone turns the wheel back and forth. I'd bet you're seeing excessive play in that bushing. They might send you one of the new bushings for free.....i might know from experience even though mine was out of warranty.

AirJordan613

Axle side:
SYNERGY MANUFACTURING*::*Replacement Parts*::*Synergy Dual Durometer Bushings (DDB) in Forged Housings

Frame side:
SYNERGY MANUFACTURING*::*Replacement Parts*::*Synergy Dual Durometer Bushing (DDB) Series

Spoke with synergy today. Both are updated parts. They recommended replacing both. I've had it for about two years. The frame side needs to be pressed out. The axle side has a forged housing that'll just thread in. That's the end that I really need. If you look at their stock images on their site, the old heim style has been replaced by the new durometer bushing. They did the same at the frame end. New one is maintenance free unlike the my old style which is greasable. My frame side currently isn't symptomatic but I may just do it as preventative maintenance while the bar is off.

resharp001

Oh wow, they made another change to it. The last time I looked at that a few months ago, they were still using a rod end on the axle side. The main problem was always the frame side mount, but they've obviously updated the axle side too. Interesting. Well, slap the new end in there and the new bushing on the frame side and be sure to torque those bolts down good! You've already ordered that new frame side bolt, but take a close look at the bracket (both front and rear side) and make sure the hole hasn't started to wallow out any. Good luck.

AirJordan613

New Track Bar:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

Old Track Bar:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

Old Frame Bushing:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

New Frame Bushing:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

Old Axle Bushing:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

New Axle Bushing:
Synergy Manufacturing - Detail Image Viewer

AirJordan613

Hopefully the bracket is fine. Since I'm running the AEV lift it has a relocation bracket so at worst, I can replace the bracket. But it's only about two years old so that shouldn't be wallowed. Only think I'm worried about is having the right size cups to to press the bushing. All I have is a manual ball joint press.

Rednroll

Thanks for sharing the information. When I replaced my front TB I was debating between getting the Synergy TB or the Teraflex TB. I ended up going with the Teraflex due to the "maintenance free" OEM style joints used. I'm not good at crawling under my JK to lube stuff up on a regular basis. Now that Synergy has a maintenance free joint design, I'll reconsider their TB in the future if needed.

AirJordan613

My pleasure. Honestly if I were to do it over again I would buy the Teraflex. The "double adjuster" on the Synergy looks pretty but functionally I find it terrible. It's circular so it's damn near impossible to grip. It's indented and their recommendation is to insert a punch and grip the indents. After switching from lift #1 to #2, I replaced my first synergy track bar because I couldn't adjust it. For some reason I stuck with the synergy for the replacement. I liked the idea of keeping my variety of brands low and I have their tie rod, drag link, track bar and ball joints on my AEV 3.5. Up here in Ohio with all our road salt and snow, the adjuster became effectively frozen and I can't get a big tool on it to turn it due to the shape. A friend of mine has the teraflex which has an adjustment sleeve similar to the factory design which I think is functionally superior. I considered just replacing this track bar with the teraflex but couldn't justify the cost - I don't need to adjust the length anymore and I'll match the current length when I thread in the new forged end. $80 shipped for two new bushings or closer to $250 for the Teraflex.

CJ7nvrstk

Check your control arms. I'm guessing they need to be tightened up a bit.

AirJordan613

Appreciate your insight, however, if you read the thread it was already determined to be the track-bar. Thank you though.

Rednroll

Not that it's that much of a difference but Morris 4x4 usually has $30off promotions on a regular basis. I didn't like the price of the TF either, so the $30off I got from Morris 4x4 made it less painful.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/spon...tantly-337870/