waterboy222

Now that you mention it, I was having an issue with bump steer on the way back from the trip. I attested it to just having so much weight in the jeep from our trip but maybe I was wrong. And as far as the TB bracket is concerned, I must not have explained the process very well. I didn't just change out the bushing. I went up 2 sizes larger with the bolt by drilling out the ovaled hole and ensuring it was round. By going with a larger bolt that means I needed a larger steel sleeve in the bushing. All the sizes are correct for the new bolt size, I didn't just put a stock bushing in and call it good. (if that makes sense?)
The bushing I used has an OD thats the same size as the original but the ID is larger, along with the sleeve and bolt to fit the new larger bracket hole..There is zero slack in the new setup, from what I can tell anyways..

Im researching tie rods today and hopefully ordering one. I figure that I will eventually need it even if thats not the current source of the issue. I'll swap that and try again. If that doesn't fix it my next step will be to do something with the trackbar frame side mount and see what happens... Thanks for your input!

jchappies

If you have after market rims you may need hub centric rings
As someone stated above weld washers on your mounts to eliminate ovaling.
Also are you using a high steer option with your 4in lift?

resharp001

Y, what you did with the track bar bushing and sleeve makes sense, it’s just not the route I would have gone. I do not trust that factory bracket at all…..and for the very reason that it already wallowed out on you one time.

What is concerning in your situation is that you’re still getting a DW. That makes me believe that you have more than 1 bad component. TYPICALLY, if you have a bad component you feel something like that bump steer (with the DL), or a weird shimmy (with bad ball joints), or a sensation with bad TREs, BUT, that is typically the end of it till the next bump. From what I’ve experienced, it seems that it typically takes more than just 1 bad joint to be full on DW. Either it’s multiple bad joints, or a bad joint and a loose bolt somewhere. The original bad joint causes some reaction, for example bump steer. If all other components are in good shape, they absorb that motion and move on. If there is a 2nd weak component/loose bolt or what not, that initial triggered motion seeks it out and creates and 2nd effect which in turn just starts multiplying throughout the steering system, and the result is DW.

waterboy222

I had to research hub centric rings, that was a new term for me. If the tires/wheels are balanced while they are on the vehicle you wouldn't need the rings, correct? Or am I missing something? I had the wheels and tires balanced when I bought new tires trying to fix the DW issue. That didn't cure it so I had them balanced while they were on the jeep and that didn't fix it either. I do have very cheap wheels, and 20'' at that..

I am not running a high steer setup but since I am tackling tie rod ends and drag link stuff I think that is where I will go next.

So if all parts are tight, no slack and common items have been replaced, maybe I should be looking for something that was bent and offest through alignment corrections? Could that cause it or am I just grasping at this point? I hate to spend another $800 on a full high steer setup if I don't need to.

Someone asked about caster earlier, I am at 5.6.

jchappies

The hub centric ring keep your tire centered in the hub, if it's off it is a cause\trigger of DW that most overlook. It can also cause other parts to wear faster.