Handgun Placement - Problem Solved!
Hello Gun Enthusiasts,
I often look at other posts here to gain ideas about how I want to approach my own DIY projects. So I thank those who have posted their ideas here. I approached this project with my background being that of former military, a current firearms and CCW instructor.
Staging a firearm inside a vehicle needs to be approached with safety in mind. Challenges such as wearing a firearm on the hip (very desirable position) with a seatbelt on can prove cumbersome and impede response time – of course situational awareness plays a part in this. Those who are wise about firearms know that shoulder holsters are a poor idea. So how to design something simple yet safe and functional was my goal.
When drawing a handgun in a vehicle, a common technique that we teach is to “trace” the steering wheel as this technique prevents the firearm from crossing any part of the body. So this is what I came up with. I use the Blackhawk CQC Standard for my CCW, so it just made sense to stick with that. Also, this holster lends itself VERY WELL to attaching it to a 1/16" steel plate.
1. Blackhawk CQC Standard – a Level 1 holster $20.00.....You can use the Blackhawk Serpa as well – Level 2 Holster - $40.00ish
2. 1/16 inch steel “plate” from Lowes or Home Depot.
3. 2 - ¼ x 1 inch hex bolts with washers and lock washers
So for about $25.00 you can do this DIY – I had the bolts and plate left over from prior projects.
So just cut the plate to what size you need and drill the holes - 3 holes for the holster and 2 for the ¼ bolts. I did cant the holster back about 15 degrees. All holes can be drilled with a ¼ inch bit and this is what you need for the holster to matt to – this is very understandable when you see how the holster attaches to the paddle or belt attachment that is comes with.
I attaching the plate to the frame of the seat: If you lift up the seat cover, you can see a “silver” part of the frame. I used the single hole and the “slotted” hole for my bolting points. I did make two holes in the fabric of the seat cover. Sorry, I did not take a picture of the seat frame and holes - but you will get the idea when you lift the seat cover. I did cut back of the plastic that holds the seat cover to the seat - again you will understand this when you look at it.
Okay, after you have the plate made, insert the bolts first and then attach the holster to the plate, bolt the plate in place. Adjust the tension of the holster to your liking – I did tighten this down a little more than my CCW to hold it in place snugger for off-roading. Some may prefer the Level 2 or even Level 3 holsters for an even more secure placement for the firearm.
There is enough room for either my Glock 19 or 34.
Of course, please check your local and state laws to see if this is an option for you.
That is it.....Questions?
Be safe out there.
Dale
I often look at other posts here to gain ideas about how I want to approach my own DIY projects. So I thank those who have posted their ideas here. I approached this project with my background being that of former military, a current firearms and CCW instructor.
Staging a firearm inside a vehicle needs to be approached with safety in mind. Challenges such as wearing a firearm on the hip (very desirable position) with a seatbelt on can prove cumbersome and impede response time – of course situational awareness plays a part in this. Those who are wise about firearms know that shoulder holsters are a poor idea. So how to design something simple yet safe and functional was my goal.
When drawing a handgun in a vehicle, a common technique that we teach is to “trace” the steering wheel as this technique prevents the firearm from crossing any part of the body. So this is what I came up with. I use the Blackhawk CQC Standard for my CCW, so it just made sense to stick with that. Also, this holster lends itself VERY WELL to attaching it to a 1/16" steel plate.
1. Blackhawk CQC Standard – a Level 1 holster $20.00.....You can use the Blackhawk Serpa as well – Level 2 Holster - $40.00ish
2. 1/16 inch steel “plate” from Lowes or Home Depot.
3. 2 - ¼ x 1 inch hex bolts with washers and lock washers
So for about $25.00 you can do this DIY – I had the bolts and plate left over from prior projects.
So just cut the plate to what size you need and drill the holes - 3 holes for the holster and 2 for the ¼ bolts. I did cant the holster back about 15 degrees. All holes can be drilled with a ¼ inch bit and this is what you need for the holster to matt to – this is very understandable when you see how the holster attaches to the paddle or belt attachment that is comes with.
I attaching the plate to the frame of the seat: If you lift up the seat cover, you can see a “silver” part of the frame. I used the single hole and the “slotted” hole for my bolting points. I did make two holes in the fabric of the seat cover. Sorry, I did not take a picture of the seat frame and holes - but you will get the idea when you lift the seat cover. I did cut back of the plastic that holds the seat cover to the seat - again you will understand this when you look at it.
Okay, after you have the plate made, insert the bolts first and then attach the holster to the plate, bolt the plate in place. Adjust the tension of the holster to your liking – I did tighten this down a little more than my CCW to hold it in place snugger for off-roading. Some may prefer the Level 2 or even Level 3 holsters for an even more secure placement for the firearm.
There is enough room for either my Glock 19 or 34.
Of course, please check your local and state laws to see if this is an option for you.
That is it.....Questions?
Be safe out there.
Dale
Last edited by Dale36; Apr 13, 2015 at 07:37 PM.
Is there anyway of lowering the entire holster...almost so its flush with the seat...does your leg ever hit it when you jump in...I have an AR pistol that i want to mount in the rear in the cargo area but i like a handgun upfront...
As far as protection, a handgun up front if your best choice. I do have a custom made box in the back to carry other firearms, but it would be rather difficult to get to them in any sort of hurry. I also have a lock box under the drivers seat, but again, not easy/fast to get to.
You could drill holes (where the CQC attaches) lower on the plate which would lower it about an 1 1/2 inches or so. Look at the picture of the plate I made and you will see there is some room to place the holster holes closer to the "seat" holes.
One problem you will encounter is that you can lower only the holster so much before you run into the muzzle/holster hitting the center console. Having it canted will give you more muzzle/holster room, so take that into consideration - thus why my Glock 34 still fits this set-up.
Hope that helps,
Dale
You could drill holes (where the CQC attaches) lower on the plate which would lower it about an 1 1/2 inches or so. Look at the picture of the plate I made and you will see there is some room to place the holster holes closer to the "seat" holes.
One problem you will encounter is that you can lower only the holster so much before you run into the muzzle/holster hitting the center console. Having it canted will give you more muzzle/holster room, so take that into consideration - thus why my Glock 34 still fits this set-up.
Hope that helps,
Dale
Last edited by Dale36; Apr 13, 2015 at 07:54 PM.
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In SC, it's illegal to have a pistol mounted up like that. I only mention this because before any of you meat eaters decide to do this, make sure you aren't going to get in trouble. My solution is easy and prefered, my pistol stays on me all the time.
I like the mount. But I drive a 6 speed, so for me it would be in the way. What about when you get out? Or need something from the back? I say just keep it on you. Unattended guns are what make all gun owners look like sh*theads.
Why is it illegal?





