Michaelm1105

Back Ground: 2dr 6sp rubicon centerforce clutch, 4" Basic kit with stock arms (no cambolts) and a steering stabilizer 37s or 36s on the way just havent decided which ones yet. This is my daily driver


Wheeling: I stay away from the extreme rocks anymore (attached picture for explanation) but i love good trail rides and deep mud and Very mild rocks... so mild i rarely disconnect

Im very pleased with my basic 4" kit (shocks, springs, relocated brake lines) but i have a few complaints. It doesnt drive like a beamer but its not a beamer. if i wanted luxury ride i wouldnt have bought the jeep, however im a little skeptical to let just anyone drive my jeep bc its not easy to drive.. Wonders on the road.. little scary when braking quickly but truthfully it doesnt really bother me and im very happy with the performance of my kit and could continue to drive it this way if its not unadvisable

Im considering the new xflex adjustable control arms since reading about the pros and cons of having an incomplete kit..

from the research it seems i need bumpstops, adjustable control arms, driveshafts, adjustable track bars...

my questions are:

Would these control arms fix the handling and ride quality?
Would they help to nurse along the stock driveshaft till it fails? when it fails and i get an aftermarket driveshaft will i have to have adjustable control arms then?

FOR MY PURPOSES.. DO I NEED ALL THIS STUFF?

I guess what im asking is would having a complete kit assist in the longevity of my vehicle? i plan on driving this jeep into the ground or could i drive it the way it is and just let the rubi eat driveshafts or whatever parts may "fail" bc of my lift

Whats in my best interest and the jeeps best interest?
If u need anymore info or pics let me know.

Mike

interceptor_1972

I have the same RC 4" kit you have, except, mine did go on with the cambolts. To fix the wandering problem, go with a set of adjustable Lower Control Arms to help fix the caster, especially if you didn't use the cambolts and are using stock control arms. If your axles are not centered, which they probably aren't if you're using the stock trackbars, getting a set of adjustable front and rear trackbars will get that fixed. As far as the driveshaft, since you don't have an automatic, you shouldn't have to worry about ripping the boot off, but even if you do, you should be ok for a while. My front driveshaft boot ripped about a month after getting the lift at full flex and it's still running fine. Whenever it goes out, I have another spare stock driveshaft I got from a forum member and when that goes out, onto a 1310 driveshaft

But in terms of longevity, I'd definitely do the front lower control arms first, and the trackbars. Hope this helps.

hammerhead

Adjustable front lowers and more caster will help a ton. You're kit should have come with track bar bracket so you don't need track bars. The 2.2 shocks have bumpstops so you shouldn't need bumpstops. As far as drive shafts go I'm not sure on that one. I have a 4 door manual and don't need them. I know the 4 door auto's need the front. I have heard of people running them until they fail. So my answer to you're question is you need adjustable front lowers and probably drive shafts.

Michaelm1105

Sounds like id appreciate the Front Lowers.
What about a pair for the Rears?
I could be wrong but doesnt the rear driveshaft fail after a certaint lift height because of the angle. With a pair of adjustable rears (i dont know uppers or lowers? or both?) could i make that drive shaft angle return closer to stock and prolong its life?

(interceptor_1972 I have the same RC 4" kit you have, except, mine did go on with the cambolts)
Did the cambolts adjust your caster? and are you happy with the ride quality with them? does it resemble stock?

hammerhead

Rear uppers is all you need to do the rear. Cam bolt will adjust you're front caster some, I would say close to stock. Some people don't like cam bolts because they can loosen over time. I ran cam bolts for a year without a problem and now have the xflex front lowers. I have more caster now than with the cam bolts and there was some difference, not that it was bad before. If you go with cam bolts and later decide you want adj. arms you will have to weld a washer were you notched the frame.

interceptor_1972

The cambolts did help adjust the caster though it's still flighty at highway speeds - not by much though. Had I known then what I know now about cambolts, I'd probably have waited and got the Lower Control Arms instead of the cambolts. But, so far, I've had the lift for a little over 6 months, have had to replace two of the shocks because they started leaking, which Ben promptly covered under warranty . Other than that, I'm very happy with the ride - it actually rode better than stock when I had my stock wheels and tires.

Even with the trackbar brackets, my front was off about a 1" and rear was off about 2" - did away with the rear trackbar bracket when I went to a JKS adjustable for the rear per David's recommendation and got a Full Traction Front from a forum member, but kept the trackbar bracket because of the dropped Pitman arm. Front LCAs are next on the list but will need some welding to fix where they had to notch out for the cambolts . Oh well, lesson learnt. And usually, you don't have to worry about rear driveshafts and angles till you start going to the 6" lifts or more - maybe someone can correct me on this if I'm wrong, but rear UCAs will help fix that.

Michaelm1105

thanks for the quick answers! you guys are telling me what i want to hear. Front lowers and Rear uppers! Then a rear driveshaft down the road. now just gotta pick my tires...

interceptor_1972

Just noticed something - you have a 2-Door.... Mine is a 4-Door... I've heard that on 2-Doors, you may need a driveshaft

Michaelm1105

Turned out my death wobble and terrible steering were caused by a loose drop bracket for the trackbar(toad called it).. had it welded on this time and if it breaks ill start looking for an adjustable trackbar


I now have 6k on the jeep 4k with the lift (stock arms, no cambolts) and I cant see a need for adjustable control arms yet.
No driveshaft vibrations
Now that the Trackbar bracket is fixed it drives straight and no more death wobble.
The ESP/ABS lights are gone and dont activate around turns anymore.
550 for the kit and steering stabilizer and I couldnt be happier.
You deffinately get what you pay for though..
Trackbar Drop bracket is a terrible design
The extended brakeline brackets were garbage. didnt even work on the back.
Every piece that came with the kit (minus the longer disconnects) are showing small signs of surface oxidation/rust..
For being a cheap design, Im very happy with its performance offroad and now on
Its worked great for me and I try to wheel it 4 to 5 days a week.
Guess we will see how long it lasts..

rozzman10

ok.. ive read through this thread.. answered many of my questions.. im running stock controls with cambolts.. i know cambolts are frowned upon.. but i havent had much complaint from them.. i check them from time to time on torque and they stay tight.. but getting the caster set has been a pain in the ass for my dealership but i believe my idea is close to what yall have talked about.. front LCA.. then rear.. but why upper and not lower?? then a rear drive shaft.. and that should be all for my lift.. thanks guys