Hello all, I am a new JK owner, but an '04 Rubicon for about a year prior. I bought it already lifted 4", 35's etc. and want to start on my own. Before I start I would like to ask that if you get easily irritated with newbie's or are "do your own research first," please dont post. I bought a bone stock JKU so I can take my wife, 2 german shepherds, and equipment on roadtrips to various sites for camping and what not. Always liked Jeeps and after owning one, I dont think I'll own anything else. I have always been a 4x4 truck guy and have been looking around on these forums on what is good/better/best for most of what I will ask. I am looking more for opinions and experiance, but wont turn down good info/ links. Biggest reason for me posting this is to start saving and get an idea of which is best for me.

I will put them in order of what I would like to do. So please comment on everything from the order if you think I should change it, or individual items and pros/cons.

1. Smitty built xrc front and rear bumper (with tire carrier)

2. 33's on some sort of black wheel. I had tko's on my rubicon and would like to get a good A/T like that. Not sure if I should get 15, 17 or 18 in wheels. I really like the look of small wheel/alot of meat (rubicon had 35x12.5x15) I ask about this because after my warranty is up I will lift and run 37's and dont want to have to get to new wheels. Ideally 37x18, but I read on another thread I could run into balancing issues with that much rubber. Would that be more of an issue on a trail rig vs DD?

I am going to try and do 1-3 at the same time. flares to run 33's with no lift, and bumpers with carrier for bigger spare without extra weight on the rear door.

3. Various assesories (more armor, new grill etc)

4. 2.5in lift

5. sleeve/gauset axles

6. 37's

7. Here is where I need more help. I will probably re-gear, but need help as to which ones. I have 3.21 right now and they are good. Plenty of giddy up for me. I am thinking 4.10-4.56's. I had 4.10s in my rubicon with 35's and it wasnt too bad. I didnt have 5th gear on bigger inclines or heavy headwinds, but with the new motor/tranny combo I think I should be ok. If I put in a rubicon 4:1 t-case, I think 4.10's should be ok because if I am wheeling 4.10 and 4:1 with new motor/tranny will be more than enough. Just not too sure how 4.10's will hold up going uphill at 65-70mph. If I keep my stock t-case, I think 4.56 would be needed.

I know this is alot of work and alot of money, but it is my first new car and it will be with me for many years to come. Sorry for the long post and thank you in advance.

 

I'm pretty sure you can't go smaller than 17 on the wheels. Brakes are in the way.

4.1 gears will be perfect for 35's. If you're planning on going to 37 you might want to go to 4.56. But if you're going with 37's forget the sleeve's and gussets. Save up for a PR 44 front axle and new shafts in the rear. 2 1/2" lift is not enough for 37's. You need at least 4" or 3" and a 1" body lift. If I were you I would buy some nice 33's with rims and save up for everything else. That's what I'm doing.

 

I suggest the EVO 3 piece skid set, covers oil pan, transmission, exaust.

Correct that you will need a 17" wheel to move up to 37". However, if you are going to go through multiple sets of 33's before you lift, it will be less expensive to go with 15" tires since you will save around $100 per tire. So you would actually save money that way by going with the 15" wheels, then buying 17" when you want 37's. Don't get 18's, not practical if you wheel it + you will pay even more for tires.

Smittybuilt (AKA shitty-built) -- avoid their stuff, it is poorly built. Looks good, but won't hold up to any abuse. Their rails and bumpers crumple like aluminum cans.

You won't really need to sleeve and gusset if you stick with 33's. I'd definitely do it before upgrading to 35" or more. 2.5" lift is perfect for 33's. If you get the right lift and the flat flares, it will work with 37's too. RK 2.5" max is what I have and will work with 37" and flats. Progressive rate coils will help you avoid sag from heavy bumpers and armor.

 

I have 15" wheels. not true you can't go smaller than 17"

 

Who makes a 37x12.5 for a 15?

 

According to your signature, you have 33 X 15. 15's will work for up to 35". If you go to 37's (like the OP states), you need 17".

None that I know of...

I just ordered 35 X 15 GY MTR. I figure I will replace them at least once or twice before moving to 37". Will move to 37" when it's no longer my DD. I saved over $100 per tire vs. 35 X 17. So that's $400+ savings every time I replace my tires. It does extremely limit your wheel selection though because you need 3.75" BS or less.

 

Speaking from someone who is running 37s. You don't HAVE to upgrade to a PR44 to run them or get heavier rear shafts. Though it would be nice to have the budget and need doesn't always require it. I've got over 35K on my JK with 37s on a gusseted/beefed Dana 30 with no issues as well as a factory rear dana 44. You will find alot of people on here that are running factory dana 30s and dana 44s with 37" tires. Now I will say that I'm not rock crawling or beating my JK as I drive it every day. Should my situation change...I'd run it till it breaks then upgrade it.
As for your question about balancing large tires you will have to look around. Pretty much all brands have had someone report issues with balancing them but it is doable. My 37" Falkens balance but I did have one the DTD had to replace as it was out of round.

 

Congrats on the Jeep. I too am new to the Jeep world and when doing my mods I chose function over form. I'm kind of against spending money on something to get me by just to spend more money down the road to upgrade the same parts to what I really wanted. I just leave it until I can afford what I really want. This is just my opinion, not meaning any disrespect. Therefore my priorities were 1) Lift with CRC link, draglink flip, afe y-pipe 2) Wheels/Tires 35x12.50x17 3) 1310 Driveshafts 4) Aftermarket steering stabilizer (Smashed the OEM) 5)Rear bumper with tire carrier (For the full sized spare) 6) Oilpan/Trans Skid 7) Rock Sliders (Should be here today). I made my descisions on the functionality of the component versus the looks of my jeep. Yes I plan on getting a front bumper with stinger (Hopefully purely cosmetic...haha) but only when I've saved for my winch. So for now I just cut it to a stubby. So thats what drove all of my descisions and there are many more mods I plan on doing. Its all part of the fun of owning a Jeep. Also as far as regearing goes I'm in a 2012 JKU Rubi 6-speed and the 4:10's feel good for 35's although if I decide to go to 37's I'm definitly going to regear to at least 4:56's if not 4:88's. 4:88's may be a bit low for freeway and DD but the extra power on the trail is worth it. But with 37's comes alot more mods so we'll see. As I tell most people, its your Jeep, you look at it, and drive it everyday so build it how you want so it makes you happy not how others say you should build it to make them happy. So far I'm really happy with my build and wouldn't have done anything different. Just my.02

 

There is a thread I will have to dig up from moderator that was about running 37's with flat flares and 2.5 lift. I know it can be done and still get full flex. He did have a 1in BB though so I may go with 3 + coils. That is down the road. It also has info about the front shaft. There are several guys that have had 37's on stock d30's for 3-4 years and wheel frequently. So will go with Bonedoc and wait till I break it to replace it. The big thing they said was if you keep from alot of wheel spin between obstacles you should be fine. I dont do heavy wheeling, but will need enough to get to trail heads for 14er's in Colorado, and different trails in the Ozarks in NWA and Missouri.


suicideking: thanks for evo suggestion, I'll have to check into that. I also agree with not sleeving till 37. I like the look and function of flat's and think 2.5 lift with 33's would look funny. I have seen pics of guys with similar set ups and its not for me. Definitely functional though. I wanted to go with flats as well bc that keeps from messing with dealers and the magnusson act when they try to void warranty for lift. Thanks for great info/suggestions.

bonedoc: what is DTD

Jesse: I agree with your theory about function....for the most part. I was looking at flat's again to keep from lifting, and I think its cheaper. I had a 4" in my '04 and that is the single biggest reason for getting the 2012. It was NOT a DD. Kicked butt offroad though. I would get agitated just driving to work not being able to drink my coffee because it was so rough (on main roads in DFW, tx).

suicideking/jesse: I was going with the xrc front for cosmetics mainly, but like the winch and KC light combo option. The rear was for function though. Do you think the xrc tirecarrier would hold up with 37's attached? Is there a company that makes a better product with virtually the same design? I will probably go mostly with metal cloak armor though. heard/read alot of good things about them.

Thanks again for all the input

 

Here's a link to the skid set:
EVO: Bumper/Armor/Skids, EVO MFG(5) ProTeK Skid System for 2012 Jeep JK Wranglers

For $399 with other companies, you usually only get 1 skid vs. all 3 with the EVO.

DTD: Discount Tire Direct. They're a forum sponsor and have great prices on wheels/tires.

Regarding rear bumper and tire carrier combo: I'm probably going with the Ace setup:
ACE JK Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier

It's only $685 and will hold up to a 38". With most other companies you barely get the bumper for that price. Bumper/carrier combos are usually around $1000. Ace makes great stuff. I have their rock rails, VERY solid and take lots of abuse.♦