Hi everyone. I have searched and asked all over the place and can't seem to remedy my dw.

I have an 08 jku with 4" zone lift. Bilstien 5100 shocks. Rubicon express adj upper control arms. Rancho stabilizer. Zone track bar with new 9/16" bolts. 305/70-16 Mickey tompsons mtz. On steel rims. 3/4" day star leveling puck.

I have swapped out tires to my friends new stock rubi wheels and tires. Didn't fix the issue. Every nut and bolt is tight. Ball joints and bearings are good. No movement in any of the parts ie tie rods ,track bar....

Caster is now set at 6.5 deg. Toe is at spec and camber is off by .77 positive.

I have been told that if I change the toe I may fix it. I can only change the toe 1/16" more or else I'll be scrubbing the tires anymore than that.

Caster I cannot go anymore because the arms are maxed out.

Edit:

The dw happens only while hitting a bump. Sometimes even the smallest one starts it. At any speed.

I have 120,000 km on the jeep.

Please help

Thanks, Paul

 

Update. Changed toe in setting by 1/8" more still getting death wobble.

 

Do you have a dropped pitman arm with that kit or a drag link flip kit? If you have a dropped pitman arm rip it off and put a drag link flip kit on. Also 4" is a lot of lift for those tires. May want to consider going with a 2.5" or 3" lift. Anything over 3" usually results in a more uncomfortable ride if the front end geometry isnt corrected. It will take more than front lower control arms to do this. Lastly, untorque your control arm and trackbar bolts and inspect your bushing and if all is good retorque everything to spec when your jeep is on the ground not on a lift. Good luck

 

Couple things to try:
1. Have you checked the upper and lower control arm bushings for wear?
2. checked the track bar bushings for wear.
3. Read plan mans write up on diagnosing death wobble and watched the videos?
4. Made sure you have no mud in your rotors throwing the balance off?
5. I know you say you changed to 9/16 bolts but are the holes ovaled? If they are you might need to address it.

 

Really look at the track bar. I would pull the track bar completely off, replace the bolts with grade-8 shoulder bolts. Make sure the holes in the track bar brackets have not opened up. DW is usually track bar related.

 

Take off you steering stabilizer and make sure it's not totally shot too. It's not a fix but if it's busted you're not making things any easier on yourself. I also find that my death wobble returns when the ass hat dealers fill my tires up to 35 psi. I run them at 30 and that generally diminishes the problem too (35" BFG's). Again, not fixes but two things that can make it worse that aren't the trackbar/balljoints/castor that are the obvious culprits.

Finally, make changes 1 at a time. You might be chasing this for a while and its easier if you approach it systematically.

 

I got hit hard by DW about 6 weeks ago. I started things one at a time.
First I reduced tire pressure to 26psi and that helped but didn't completely cure it.
Then I adjusted caster as far out as possible and kicked toe in to 1/8" and it helped too. But still twitchy and DW happened again.
Then I began replacing parts. First the track bar and put 9/16 grade8 hardware. But then I had to remove the track bar bracket and drop pitman to cure the bump steer I was getting. Even better but still not fixed.
Then I replaced the Drag Link to a stiffer one even though the stock one was fine.
Then I replaced the tie rod with a beefy 1.5" rod and 1 ton ends. While doing this I had to take off the stabilizer and happened to notice that it gave almost no resistance one way but then was stiff moving the other.
So I ran without it and no DW or shimmy or shake or anything. I put on a new Bilstein unit and it's awesome.

So while I do notice stiffer steering and less flex it all came down to a blown Stabilizer causing the problems. But now I have a beefy steering set up that should be good for a long while.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using JK-Forum

 

This is a great write up that has helped a lot of us out.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...obbles-260145/

 

Dasius, totally agree with k0260. If you go through Planman's step by step process for diagnosing DW, it is highly likely you will come across your issue. If it has been happening for awhile, you may find you have several issues, since one can set off others. It's more than just a matter of torquing everything down. Like the trackbar for instance...take a good look at the holes to make sure they're not enlarged thus unstable. Simply torquing them won't down. Go through the list one by one. You'll find it.

BTW....I think more of shimmy's with improper alignment than I do DW.

 

Ok so after reading all the "answers" as dated I upgraded to the new bolts (9/16" grade 8 shouldered bolts ) as found in every single write up I have read since before posting here. I have gone through all of this with a friend and quadruple checked every thing. I have had 3 alignments done. One prior to replacing the UPPER control arms. And two after. I have a drop pitman arm made for a 4" lift.

I had a 2.5" budget lift prior to installing this kit. The jeep was fine. No shimmy no dw. Nothing.

Today I will be replacing both sides ball joints.

The track bar and stabilizer are fine. Bushings are good on control arms.

Tire size has nothing to do with the issue. As I was running these same tires on the previous lift. And I tried it out on my friends stock rubi wheels and tires.

I will try to drive with 30 psi in the tires today we shall see what happens.