Help please. Death wobble
If you've got an adjustable track bar and not using an axle or frame relocation bracket then I would suggest putting the stock pitman arm back on. It flexes way less than the drop arm and will put your Drag Link and Tack bar geometry closer in line.
Also, pull your SS off and try a run without it. You may find like I did that it's blown or the valve only works one way. My 2 week old Pro Comp SS was blown. The Rancho is about the same quality. I replaced it with a Bilstein and voila! My DW probs went away.
I ran without a SS almost a week just to confirm it was the blown SS causing my issue.
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Also, pull your SS off and try a run without it. You may find like I did that it's blown or the valve only works one way. My 2 week old Pro Comp SS was blown. The Rancho is about the same quality. I replaced it with a Bilstein and voila! My DW probs went away.
I ran without a SS almost a week just to confirm it was the blown SS causing my issue.
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Ok so I have replaced both sides of the ball joints and double checked that the SS IS GOOD. still getting DW. both lower ball joints were bad.
Next is add a little more toe in. After that I am going to try to play with the castor. I'm at 6.5 now and I will try to bring it back to OEM spec.
The track bar I have came with my kit and is already adjusted to not need the relocation bracket. (It's geometry is different from stock)
I'm curious if you guys think the leveling pucks in the front might have something to do with the issue? Any thoughts?
Next is add a little more toe in. After that I am going to try to play with the castor. I'm at 6.5 now and I will try to bring it back to OEM spec.
The track bar I have came with my kit and is already adjusted to not need the relocation bracket. (It's geometry is different from stock)
I'm curious if you guys think the leveling pucks in the front might have something to do with the issue? Any thoughts?
Have you replaced your factory front trackbar bolts with proper 9/16" bolts?
What is your "toe" set at?
FYI - be watchful and keep looking.. A SS will not fix DW or allow it to happen. It only masks the problems. If you truly have DW it will be back as soon as it trashes your new SS.
Have you replaced your factory front trackbar bolts with proper 9/16" bolts?
What is your "toe" set at?
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I had the exact same thing. I have a Rough Country 4" lift and never had a problem using the stock SS. One day at 4wheelparts picking up some other stuff I figured WTH and bought a Pro Comp SS to complete my system. A week later the DW reached up and scared the Sh-t out of me. I read all the forums and checked all the possible causes and even had the dealer and 4wheelparts service centers take a look and all checked out.
I then took it upon myself to pull the SS off and it had ZERO resistance one way and was stiff the other. I dropped by 4wheelparts and the same guy that recommended it told me "yeah, that happens to a lot of them". Lol, then he swapped me into the Bilstein and problem solved.
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I then took it upon myself to pull the SS off and it had ZERO resistance one way and was stiff the other. I dropped by 4wheelparts and the same guy that recommended it told me "yeah, that happens to a lot of them". Lol, then he swapped me into the Bilstein and problem solved.
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This is not completely true. A bad or blown SS can actually cause DW. If everything else is set up right and your SS has resistance one way and is blown the other it can certainly cause a problem. I found this out by removing mine and the DW went away. Replaced with a Bilstein 5100 and problem is solved.
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Hi everyone. I have searched and asked all over the place and can't seem to remedy my dw.
I have an 08 jku with 4" zone lift. Bilstien 5100 shocks. Rubicon express adj upper control arms. Rancho stabilizer. Zone track bar with new 9/16" bolts. 305/70-16 Mickey tompsons mtz. On steel rims. 3/4" day star leveling puck.
I have swapped out tires to my friends new stock rubi wheels and tires. Didn't fix the issue. Every nut and bolt is tight. Ball joints and bearings are good. No movement in any of the parts ie tie rods ,track bar....
Caster is now set at 6.5 deg. Toe is at spec and camber is off by .77 positive.
I have been told that if I change the toe I may fix it. I can only change the toe 1/16" more or else I'll be scrubbing the tires anymore than that.
Caster I cannot go anymore because the arms are maxed out.
Edit:
The dw happens only while hitting a bump. Sometimes even the smallest one starts it. At any speed.
I have 120,000 km on the jeep.
Please help
Thanks, Paul
I have an 08 jku with 4" zone lift. Bilstien 5100 shocks. Rubicon express adj upper control arms. Rancho stabilizer. Zone track bar with new 9/16" bolts. 305/70-16 Mickey tompsons mtz. On steel rims. 3/4" day star leveling puck.
I have swapped out tires to my friends new stock rubi wheels and tires. Didn't fix the issue. Every nut and bolt is tight. Ball joints and bearings are good. No movement in any of the parts ie tie rods ,track bar....
Caster is now set at 6.5 deg. Toe is at spec and camber is off by .77 positive.
I have been told that if I change the toe I may fix it. I can only change the toe 1/16" more or else I'll be scrubbing the tires anymore than that.
Caster I cannot go anymore because the arms are maxed out.
Edit:
The dw happens only while hitting a bump. Sometimes even the smallest one starts it. At any speed.
I have 120,000 km on the jeep.
Please help
Thanks, Paul
I think I will have to disagree with you Dasius. You still have a problem. The new SS is simply masking your issue. I've taken my SS a few times ( drove up the I-80 at 70 mph to go wheeling on Fordyce without it) and can hardly feel the difference. Keep looking.
I have checked all bolts and all alignment is set properly. The geometry of the suspension is perfect. The SS off the jeep was tracking and driving fine until about 90 mph. With the rancho SS on it was flighty and starting to dw at anything over 35 mph. Once I replaced it everything is fine now. As I have said I have go e through all of the bushings and everything is as tight as it needs to be. Torqued to spec and no movement in any components that need to be stiff.
The only thing I have left to replace is the u joints in the front axel as they are loose. But I will wait a few paychecks till I get myself out of this financial hole I'm in now.
I am going to try and bring the castor back to stock and see if it makes any difference.
The only thing I have left to replace is the u joints in the front axel as they are loose. But I will wait a few paychecks till I get myself out of this financial hole I'm in now.
I am going to try and bring the castor back to stock and see if it makes any difference.


