Help with towing weight/capability
Originally Posted by roecker
DGriz,
That blurb really makes my day. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast and there really are not to many hills around here until you get to Central Texas. I now feel good about going and looking at 3000# (dry weight) travel trailers.
Thanks for the write up.
That blurb really makes my day. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast and there really are not to many hills around here until you get to Central Texas. I now feel good about going and looking at 3000# (dry weight) travel trailers.
Thanks for the write up.
Originally Posted by DGriz
I've been pulling a 19' travel trailer that has a dry weight of 3,000 lbs. for the past year. I have 4.10 gearing in my Rubicon and had the stock 32's on for the first 6 months of towing. Then I lifted it 2.5" and went with 33's so I can offer my experience with both set-ups. I live in the Central Valley of California so just about anywhere I go I have to climb and descend a mountain range. I've made several trips to the coast (with both set-ups) and tackled the 6% grade there. It was easy with the 32's and had no problem maintaining 55 mph. With the 33's I'm barely hanging on to 45 mph. This is, by the way, usually with 4 people and 1 dog in the Jeep.
I've also pulled to Big Bear Lake and Lake Tahoe. Both tough pulls. Both were with my 33's on and it was slow going. But I was going as fast as the trucks pulling trailers so based on that I think I did fine. Going to Big Bear I chose the easiest way in with the most gradual climb. Coming back I took the steepest (and quickest) route home. It was posted as an 11% grade! I just kept it in the low gears and took my time coming down. Didn't use the brakes all that much when I used the gears properly. I never heated up the brakes and stopping power was there when needed.
The absolute toughest climb I've managed so far is the climb up out of Lake Tahoe where I'm climbing a very steep (not sure what % grade, sorry) road for several miles. I had to drop down to 1st gear and maintain RPMs around 5k just to keep it moving. I was doing everything I could to keep my speed at 30 MPH. The engine did heat up to about 3/4 on the gauge, first time that's happened. I was not the slowest RV on the road though. We actually caught up to a couple trucks pulling 5th wheels going even slower. In hindsight, I guess I would have been fine at a slower speed myself and not pushing my rig like that.
So, done right, it's my opinion that the JKU can handle every bit of the 3,500 lbs. it's rated at. However, I added the following mods specifically for towing:
- B&M Trans Cooler
- Superchips Tuner
- Airlift Air Springs (bags)
- Brake Controller
- Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control
I've never felt unsafe while pulling. Stopping power has been fine, not great, but I've managed to stop every time so far. Just allow a little extra time. I am upgrading to Hawk LTS brake pads in the next couple of weeks that will probably help out a little more. If you will be towing more than rock crawling, they have another pad that is better when hot than these, but I suspect the LTS will be at least as good as the stock pads while towing, but definitely better when cold. The sway has been fine. I've never felt like the trailer was pushing me around. Gearing was good with 32's and 4.10, but with 33's, I'd prefer something around 4.56. With 35's I'd be looking for 5.12.
Here's the trailer I'm pulling:
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=388556"/>
Spree Escape 196S by KZ
I've also pulled to Big Bear Lake and Lake Tahoe. Both tough pulls. Both were with my 33's on and it was slow going. But I was going as fast as the trucks pulling trailers so based on that I think I did fine. Going to Big Bear I chose the easiest way in with the most gradual climb. Coming back I took the steepest (and quickest) route home. It was posted as an 11% grade! I just kept it in the low gears and took my time coming down. Didn't use the brakes all that much when I used the gears properly. I never heated up the brakes and stopping power was there when needed.
The absolute toughest climb I've managed so far is the climb up out of Lake Tahoe where I'm climbing a very steep (not sure what % grade, sorry) road for several miles. I had to drop down to 1st gear and maintain RPMs around 5k just to keep it moving. I was doing everything I could to keep my speed at 30 MPH. The engine did heat up to about 3/4 on the gauge, first time that's happened. I was not the slowest RV on the road though. We actually caught up to a couple trucks pulling 5th wheels going even slower. In hindsight, I guess I would have been fine at a slower speed myself and not pushing my rig like that.
So, done right, it's my opinion that the JKU can handle every bit of the 3,500 lbs. it's rated at. However, I added the following mods specifically for towing:
- B&M Trans Cooler
- Superchips Tuner
- Airlift Air Springs (bags)
- Brake Controller
- Weight Distribution Hitch with Sway Control
I've never felt unsafe while pulling. Stopping power has been fine, not great, but I've managed to stop every time so far. Just allow a little extra time. I am upgrading to Hawk LTS brake pads in the next couple of weeks that will probably help out a little more. If you will be towing more than rock crawling, they have another pad that is better when hot than these, but I suspect the LTS will be at least as good as the stock pads while towing, but definitely better when cold. The sway has been fine. I've never felt like the trailer was pushing me around. Gearing was good with 32's and 4.10, but with 33's, I'd prefer something around 4.56. With 35's I'd be looking for 5.12.
Here's the trailer I'm pulling:
<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=388556"/>
Spree Escape 196S by KZ
The 2.5" lift is from the JSPEC "2 inch" lift. Without the aftermarket bumpers and stuff, I got over 2.5" actual lift. The Airlift bags just help keep the rear from sagging too much. Even without them inflated, I have very little sag. I just use them to keep it as perfectly level as possible, but to be honest, you could probably manage just fine without them. My sig has all the details of what I'm currently running.
Originally Posted by DGriz
The 2.5" lift is from the JSPEC "2 inch" lift. Without the aftermarket bumpers and stuff, I got over 2.5" actual lift. The Airlift bags just help keep the rear from sagging too much. Even without them inflated, I have very little sag. I just use them to keep it as perfectly level as possible, but to be honest, you could probably manage just fine without them. My sig has all the details of what I'm currently running.
Have fun!
I'm replying to several posts, sorry about the odd jumps.
The different tow rating for our jeeps overseas might take into account speed limits, average temps and road design and average driver intelligence. Maybe in Europe nobody goes over 62mph while towing. Maybe it's a conspiracy against us 'mericans like Obama being reelected.
The different tow rating for our jeeps overseas might take into account speed limits, average temps and road design and average driver intelligence. Maybe in Europe nobody goes over 62mph while towing. Maybe it's a conspiracy against us 'mericans like Obama being reelected.
Towing Speeds: On motorways & dual carriageways 60 MPH, other roads 50 MPH, provided no lower limit is in force and the gross weight of vehicle and trailer is less than 7.5 tonnes. You are not allowed in the third lane of a motorway when towing (This is a guide for limies visiting the mainland).
Originally Posted by DGriz
The 2.5" lift is from the JSPEC "2 inch" lift. Without the aftermarket bumpers and stuff, I got over 2.5" actual lift. The Airlift bags just help keep the rear from sagging too much. Even without them inflated, I have very little sag. I just use them to keep it as perfectly level as possible, but to be honest, you could probably manage just fine without them. My sig has all the details of what I'm currently running.
My comments from a prior post on the topic:
I spoke with an engineer from Chrysler and he told me there were several reasons.
Main reason was the litigious environment of the US.
They tested the JKU with trailer in death valley, baker, i70 west out of Denver. They expect the vehicle to maintain at least 45 mph on these grades. The JKU could not.
The axles, drivetrain, frame and hitch were up to the task, but ultimately ratings were set very conservative to avoid litigation over someone being stupid.
I am comfortable pulling up to 5k with an aux transmission cooler with my rubicon (4.11 gears).
Our boat and trailer are 4,000 lbs and it pulls great. No sway or sitting on the bumpstops. Pulls 70 mph fine.
My recommendation is to obey factory recommendations though.
Going up mountain passes sucks though.
I spoke with an engineer from Chrysler and he told me there were several reasons.
Main reason was the litigious environment of the US.
They tested the JKU with trailer in death valley, baker, i70 west out of Denver. They expect the vehicle to maintain at least 45 mph on these grades. The JKU could not.
The axles, drivetrain, frame and hitch were up to the task, but ultimately ratings were set very conservative to avoid litigation over someone being stupid.
I am comfortable pulling up to 5k with an aux transmission cooler with my rubicon (4.11 gears).
Our boat and trailer are 4,000 lbs and it pulls great. No sway or sitting on the bumpstops. Pulls 70 mph fine.
My recommendation is to obey factory recommendations though.
Going up mountain passes sucks though.



