I noticed the same issue when I installed my front lower control arms. I bought a bag of the little set screws that came in other holes. Only put the grease zerks in when I service the joint, then replace them with the set screws when finished.

Got bet, yeah what Flapjack said. Put set screws in top and bottom hole, then put zerk into grease, then reinstall set screw.

 

It flips that draglink to the top of the knuckle, by doing this your draglink gets closer to horizontal to the ground and therefore closer to perpendicular to the axis at which wheel turns. In short this gives a better steering reaction to the wheel.

By lifting your draglink you need to adjust the trackbar aswell. As a previous poster stated the trackbar and draglink need to be parallel or atleast really close to it or you will get bumpsteer due to these two linkage not traveling in the same arc. There are two ways to get the trackbar into parallel after flipping the draglink, you can lower the mounting at the frame or lift it at the axle. We engineered the EVO bracket to lift at the axle which helps bring your roll center closer to your COG which decreases the lean/roll of the vehicle in a turn. Lowering at the frame has the opposite effect.

Basically, it makes it better

The EVO Draglink Flip kit will work with the EVO C2 Axle gussets. You can throw a couple of welds onto the brackets if you prefer, especially for trackbar stuff, this is always a good idea.

With some modifications to your current draglink kit and possibly some welding you could get it to work around the EVO C2's

 

So..The EVO bracket wont interfere with the EVO gussets im assuming? I cant recall why but the AEV bracket wouldnt work..maybe because you had to re locate the swaybar links. EVO bracket bolt on?

 

Yup the EVO Draglink Flip works with the EVO C2's without modification. 100% bolt-on. There is one u-bolt though

EVO

 

Any chance you can buy the EVO flip kit without the new draglink? I just installed a brand new Rock Krawler draglink

 

Give me a call and we can figure it out...

Thanks
Andrew
714-879-8913

 

Well...i'v been told that i cant run a high steer kit because my old man emu kit and 3/4 inch front spacer are not enough lift to warrant one. The jeep was just alligned and according to the shop and the procal, the steering wheel is dead on. About 5 degrees positive caster is all my tom woods drive shaft will tollerate before it starts vibrating. I still have the esp coming on around mild bends in the road between 20 and 30 mph. I have a gut feeling that i need a steering box because this thing feels like a boat. Anybody else have any input?

 

it depends on your jeep and what ome springs you have. i ran a flip with no spacers and a hd ome ltr kit just fine. your overall lift hight needs to be at least 3 inches to run the flip. this is figuring in sag and etc.... on springs from weight. so over 3 inches of actual lift your good to go. i have a very heavy 4 door and had plenty of room to clear everything after i put on the ome ltr lift. i used aev but would of bought the evo if it had ben out. i had to modify and weld the brackets and stuff they sent me from aev to make it work.

 

as for the esp issue i have never had a problem till recently. i installed new ball joints (after discovering they went bad) and set the toe again and it has ben fine since. i saw you were a 2007 and you may have some bad ball joints, tie rod ends etc.... if the wheel is strait and aligned right this may be your issue. i would do a good check of your setup and see what you find.

also using a needle style grease fitting is another way of fixing that issue if you preffer not to swap out the bolt for a zerk each time.

 

Thanks Cody. Ball joints are new and i recntly installed a Rock Kralwer tierod and drag link w new Moog ends. I actually just notched out the control arm mounts to clear the zerks and it seems to have worked pretty well. Can a sloppy or worn steering box affect the esp system?