highway speed driving?
I would check your caster first. That will make a big difference if its to much or to little.
In the 2-3 range mine was twitchy. Would change lanes in a second if not paying attention.
I run no stabilizer, 37 mud grapplers and now with proper angles and alignment mine drives great. Even made a Long high speed run in the 90-95mph range and everything still felt smooth as silk. ( except for my shifting like mad auto tranny!)
In the 2-3 range mine was twitchy. Would change lanes in a second if not paying attention.
I run no stabilizer, 37 mud grapplers and now with proper angles and alignment mine drives great. Even made a Long high speed run in the 90-95mph range and everything still felt smooth as silk. ( except for my shifting like mad auto tranny!)
I drive 80-85 (mostly 80) in Colorado like most of the folks on the highway. Suspension setup is key. I had an easy trip back from EJS at 80 the whole way. I installed the KR 2.5 flex kit that included track bar and lower front control arms. My friend has an LJ with 35's too and he did the 2.5 budget boost with no LCA and all he could talk about was his Jeep wandering on the highway and wallowing off road. He's going to get some LCA and springs now.
As others have said the front suspension settings have to be tight. The effect of the factory front air dam is also underestimated; when I took mine off it made a big difference on the highway especially in cross winds. I replaced it with a RR front skid with a welded on extension that fills the whole front area; after that my JK was mostly back to what it was stock as far as highway stability.
I drive from Orlando to Jacksonville regularly. The first time I did it it was freaky I was blown all over due to the wind (cruising between 70 and 85). The rest of the times with minimal wind it has been fine, for the most part like any other vehicle I've owned.
A heavy steering stabilizer is a must when increasing tire size and those that don't, are seriously asking for it.. It is not a band aid at all.. Yes, everything must be aligned and tightened properly, but the increase in tire size also increases rolling friction.. The "bump steer" issues are mainly due to steering geometry set up which is why I said a replaced pitman arm ( which most companies list with their kits as required when lift over a certain height), the steering stabilizer upgrade is to help with wheel drift due to a higher contact patch with the ground.. For me, a little under $200 is pretty cheap insurance for my rig and my passengers..
I know I just stirred a hornets nest as some insist that you can be "hardcore" and be cheap too.. I paid 32k for mine and certainly don't mind the "better safe than sorry" phrase.... Ps... A dual steering stabilizer also helps control your flying brick when the wind gets to shoving..
For the record... I drive a '12 Unlimited. 4" Skyjacker Stage 2... 35x 12.50 BFG AT's...
Bullfrog
I know I just stirred a hornets nest as some insist that you can be "hardcore" and be cheap too.. I paid 32k for mine and certainly don't mind the "better safe than sorry" phrase.... Ps... A dual steering stabilizer also helps control your flying brick when the wind gets to shoving..
For the record... I drive a '12 Unlimited. 4" Skyjacker Stage 2... 35x 12.50 BFG AT's...
Bullfrog
Thanks for all the advice guys, I drove the jeep again today and everything felt great, brought her up to 80mph and handled really well.
How do I measure this?
The negative to the track bar drop bracket is roll center is not corrected.
For best results--and especially at 3-4" of lift--matching roll centers front/back for best handling.
OP.. You never said your alignment numbers ?
Stock is 4-4.2
toe in 1/16-1/8
Steering stabilizer has nothing to do with wandering rofl
Psi is a big one people over look also.
For best results--and especially at 3-4" of lift--matching roll centers front/back for best handling.
OP.. You never said your alignment numbers ?
Stock is 4-4.2
toe in 1/16-1/8
Steering stabilizer has nothing to do with wandering rofl
Psi is a big one people over look also.
Call around and find an alignment shop that will give a free/cheap alignment check.
Or, go down to the writeups area, stickied on top is an index, find the Basic DIY Alignment writeup. That'll get you a ballpark caster and a decent toe number.
Or, go down to the writeups area, stickied on top is an index, find the Basic DIY Alignment writeup. That'll get you a ballpark caster and a decent toe number.



