Hood latch/lock experience/recommendation?
Forget to ask, I can't tell from your pic. But where is that padlock located ?
G,day Mate
I lost my front plastic dummy skid plate (under the bumper) in a bog. Since then I have noticed that my hood has started to bounce around a lot at high speeds, also my fuel consumption has gone up a tiny bit. See if u can try to divert the air coming from under the Jeep away from the engine bay.
Just my 2c worth
Mani
I lost my front plastic dummy skid plate (under the bumper) in a bog. Since then I have noticed that my hood has started to bounce around a lot at high speeds, also my fuel consumption has gone up a tiny bit. See if u can try to divert the air coming from under the Jeep away from the engine bay.
Just my 2c worth
Mani
I attatched the "D"-Link to the square tubular cross bar that's attatched to the frame, that the bumper atatches to, behind where the bumper is. And of course, that's where the padlock goes.
Last edited by Ynkedad; Jan 28, 2010 at 04:18 AM.
I have a grille mod and couldn't use an after market lock so I did this instead (yesterday)...I'll be brief...





FWIW...
I bought some 1/8th" galvenized cable, and some 3/32" crimping sleeves at Home Depot. I had the Ring and bracket here at the house, but Home Depot sells tie down d-rings. (I have a pic of them if someone needs it).
I put the tape on the ends for several reasons..
1) so I wouldn't get hurt.
2) so the cable wouldn't catch on anything when I ran it thru.
I made the cable short so I could utilize the hood spring in the overall length. The hood pulls tight where as there's no play whatsoever, even w/out it being latched.
FWIW...
I bought some 1/8th" galvenized cable, and some 3/32" crimping sleeves at Home Depot. I had the Ring and bracket here at the house, but Home Depot sells tie down d-rings. (I have a pic of them if someone needs it).
I put the tape on the ends for several reasons..
1) so I wouldn't get hurt.
2) so the cable wouldn't catch on anything when I ran it thru.
I made the cable short so I could utilize the hood spring in the overall length. The hood pulls tight where as there's no play whatsoever, even w/out it being latched.

I have a grille mod and couldn't use an after market lock so I did this instead (yesterday)...I'll be brief...





FWIW...
I bought some 1/8th" galvenized cable, and some 3/32" crimping sleeves at Home Depot. I had the Ring and bracket here at the house, but Home Depot sells tie down d-rings. (I have a pic of them if someone needs it).
I put the tape on the ends for several reasons..
1) so I wouldn't get hurt.
2) so the cable wouldn't catch on anything when I ran it thru.
I made the cable short so I could utilize the hood spring in the overall length. The hood pulls tight where as there's no play whatsoever, even w/out it being latched.
FWIW...
I bought some 1/8th" galvenized cable, and some 3/32" crimping sleeves at Home Depot. I had the Ring and bracket here at the house, but Home Depot sells tie down d-rings. (I have a pic of them if someone needs it).
I put the tape on the ends for several reasons..
1) so I wouldn't get hurt.
2) so the cable wouldn't catch on anything when I ran it thru.
I made the cable short so I could utilize the hood spring in the overall length. The hood pulls tight where as there's no play whatsoever, even w/out it being latched.

It is expensive. But I have to say it is very stout and solid. It solves the hood dance problem and prevents thieves from cutting your battery cables to disarm your alarm. Also, after installation you program it to work with your ignition key, so no extra key.
$99 + shipping from wyckoffparts (a sponsor).






